CV joint

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Old 04 Oct 2008, 02:39 pm   #1 (permalink)
ransley
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Default CV joint

What is a fair price to get a CV joint replaced, a mechanic says he
wants to use a complete new driveshaft and 160$ would be full bill,
labor and materials.
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Old 04 Oct 2008, 11:03 pm   #2 (permalink)
spsffan
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Default Re: CV joint

ransley wrote:
> What is a fair price to get a CV joint replaced, a mechanic says he
> wants to use a complete new driveshaft and 160$ would be full bill,
> labor and materials.



Not too bad, but I got mine done for $100 at a place that specializes in
brakes and driveshafts. They are a parts jobber that also has a shop,
but looking in the local Auto Trader if you have such a thing, you will
find lots of places quoting prices for CV joints. Most of these are in
the worst part of town. Some quote prices as low as $75, but I didn't
want to go there. M and D Brake, where I had mine done is a parts jobber
that also does instillations. I had dealt with them before for brake
parts on my old Dodge Darts, so I went with them. 5 months out and no
problems.

Regards,

DAve
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Old 05 Oct 2008, 04:26 am   #3 (permalink)
Leftie
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Default Re: CV joint

ransley wrote:
> What is a fair price to get a CV joint replaced, a mechanic says he
> wants to use a complete new driveshaft and 160$ would be full bill,
> labor and materials.



That's a good price. Getting rebuilt half-shafts installed is less
expensive than just having the rubber boots on the joints replaced,
ironically...
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Old 05 Oct 2008, 07:36 pm   #4 (permalink)
johngdole@hotmail.com
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Default Re: CV joint

$150-200 seems to be the range in independent shops. Dealers usually
want $350 each. There are people who spec new aftermarket halfshafts
(such as Cardone Select or NAPA), and there are those who spec
rebuilts of OEM shafts (such as A1 Cardone or dealer).

The rebuilts regrind OEM case hardened joints, and they typically
offer shorter warranty than the lifetime on new aftermarket shafts.
Either case, just make sure you get a name brand like Cardone or NAPA,
not a rebuilt/re-boot from the local home garage.

Cardone Select:
http://www.cardone.com/English/Club/Select/default.asp

A1 Cardone:
http://www.cardone.com/English/Club/...in/default.asp




On Oct 4, 12:39*pm, ransley <Mark_Rans...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> What is a fair price to get a CV joint replaced, a mechanic says he
> wants to use a complete new driveshaft and 160$ would be full bill,
> labor and materials.


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Old 06 Oct 2008, 06:10 am   #5 (permalink)
ransley
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Default Re: CV joint

On Oct 5, 7:36*pm, johngd...@hotmail.com wrote:
> $150-200 seems to be the range in independent shops. Dealers usually
> want $350 each. There are people who spec new aftermarket halfshafts
> (such as Cardone Select or NAPA), and there are those who spec
> rebuilts of OEM shafts (such as A1 Cardone or dealer).
>
> The rebuilts regrind OEM case hardened joints, and they typically
> offer shorter warranty than the lifetime on new aftermarket shafts.
> Either case, just make sure you get a name brand like Cardone or NAPA,
> not a rebuilt/re-boot from the local home garage.
>
> Cardone Select:http://www.cardone.com/English/Club/Select/default.asp
>
> A1 Cardone:http://www.cardone.com/English/Club/...in/default.asp
>
> On Oct 4, 12:39*pm, ransley <Mark_Rans...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > What is a fair price to get a CV joint replaced, a mechanic says he
> > wants to use a complete new driveshaft and 160$ would be full bill,
> > labor and materials.- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -


I think he said new but I will check, it barely made it the last two
blocks it kept starting to lock, i guess its eating bearings, so I
took out a 3$ a month auto club towing service sunday, I may not make
it the 7 blocks to the station, well now I can have a pro look at my
duct tape on my gas tank.
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Old 06 Oct 2008, 09:12 pm   #6 (permalink)
johngdole@hotmail.com
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Default Re: CV joint

That's why some states' inspections would fail even a torn CV boot. I
wonder what the condition of the wheel bearing is in then. The press-
in type is $30-40 plus oil seal.


On Oct 6, 4:10*am, ransley <Mark_Rans...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I think he said new but I will check, it barely made it the last two
> blocks it kept starting to lock, i guess its eating bearings, so I
> took out a 3$ a month auto club towing service sunday, I may not make
> it the 7 blocks to the station, well now I can have a pro look at my
> duct tape on my gas tank.


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Old 07 Oct 2008, 07:59 am   #7 (permalink)
ransley
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Default Re: CV joint

On Oct 6, 9:12*pm, johngd...@hotmail.com wrote:
> That's why some states' inspections would fail even a torn CV boot. I
> wonder what the condition of the wheel bearing is in then. The press-
> in type is $30-40 plus oil seal.
>
> On Oct 6, 4:10*am, ransley <Mark_Rans...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > I think he said new but I will check, it barely made it the last two
> > blocks it kept starting to lock, i guess its eating bearings, so I
> > took out a 3$ a month auto club towing service sunday, I may not make
> > it the 7 blocks to the station, well now I can have a pro look at my
> > duct tape on my gas tank.- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -


The boot is fine and shows oil leaking! The wheel is locking up like
it is throwing metal and eating bearings, I only have 7 blocks to
drive to the shop and my ATT auto club kicks in effect thursday, but
this was a factory defect bad 12++ years ago with a minor nock when
turning but I could not convince Toy then.
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Old 07 Oct 2008, 07:33 pm   #8 (permalink)
johngdole@hotmail.com
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Default Re: CV joint

I hope it didn't affect anything else locking up like that. That's too
bad the dealer insisted it's "normal". We hear that all too often
unfortunately. Good luck.



On Oct 7, 5:59*am, ransley <Mark_Rans...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> The boot is fine and shows oil leaking! *The wheel is locking up like
> it is throwing metal and eating bearings, I only have 7 blocks to
> drive to the shop and my ATT auto club kicks in effect thursday, but
> this was a factory defect bad 12++ years ago with a minor nock when
> turning but I could not convince Toy then.


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Old 08 Oct 2008, 05:45 am   #9 (permalink)
ransley
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Default Re: CV joint

On Oct 7, 7:33*pm, johngd...@hotmail.com wrote:
> I hope it didn't affect anything else locking up like that. That's too
> bad the dealer insisted it's "normal". We hear that all too often
> unfortunately. Good luck.
>
> On Oct 7, 5:59*am, ransley <Mark_Rans...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > The boot is fine and shows oil leaking! *The wheel is locking up like
> > it is throwing metal and eating bearings, I only have 7 blocks to
> > drive to the shop and my ATT auto club kicks in effect thursday, but
> > this was a factory defect bad 12++ years ago with a minor nock when
> > turning but I could not convince Toy then.- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -


Do you mean its locking up is trashing other areas of the drivetrain,
what do I worry about, Splines?, or what could this be doing. I have
to drive it a mile and it is going to keep slamming the drivetrain
every few seconds.
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Old 08 Oct 2008, 08:05 pm   #10 (permalink)
johngdole@hotmail.com
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Default Re: CV joint

After some googling I wasn't able to find examples of cv joint
seizures, fortunately. I guess most people caught it with a boot just
torn and others clicking.

By "locking up" I mean losing steering control. See the following
excerpts from wikipedia.org. It's dangerous when the joint fails.
Towing like you said is a good idea.

"In worst case, the CV joint may disjoin causing the vehicle to stop
moving or lock up, rendering the car incapable of steering. Damaged CV
joint gaiters will usually cause a car to fail a vehicle inspection."

"Constant velocity joints are usually reliable and largely trouble-
free. The two main failures are wear and partial seizure.

Wear in the outer joint usually shows up as vibration at certain
speeds, a bit like the vibration caused by an unbalanced wheel. To
determine if the joint is worn, a driver should find a big empty
parking lot and drive the car slowly in tight circles, left and right.
Worn joints will make a rhythmic clicking or cracking noise. Wear in
the inner joints shows up as a "clunk" or "pop" when applying power
or, if severe, when lifting off the throttle."


On Oct 8, 3:45*am, ransley <Mark_Rans...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Do you mean its locking up is trashing other areas of the drivetrain,
> what do I worry about, Splines?, or what could this be doing. I have
> to drive it a mile and it is going to keep slamming the drivetrain
> every few seconds.


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