1994 Camry - Starter not turning over

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Old 15 Dec 2008, 02:01 am   #1 (permalink)
Clint
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Default 1994 Camry - Starter not turning over

So, my 1994 Toyota Camry 4-Cyl (Engine 5S-FE) was recently having
intermittent issues starting and operating. The difficulties came
either starting cold or hot, sometimes I would need to turn the key
longer than necessary when starting cold, or would need to wait 30-45
minutes to start hot. Once, during operation at about 35mph, the
engine stopped firing in mid drive.

Because of how intermittent the problems were, I believed it was an
electrical issue. I noticed that the battery terminals were fairly
corroded, so I pulled the battery and cleaned both the contacts and
the terminals.

I pulled the sparks, found no evidence of corrosion or damage. They
are only 15,000 miles old. I checked continuity in the cables to the
distributor cap, and everything checked out fine.

I pulled the rotor and dust cover from the distributor, removed the
positive and negative terminals and checked the primary resistance on
the Internal Ignition Coil. It tested around 1.9ohms, where specs for
a good one are 0.4-0.5 ohms, so I replaced the Coil. This process
required removal and reinstallation of the distributor.

I reconnected all electrical relays and went to turn the car on. When
I go to start the car, the lights on the clock dim, along with a few
other HUD lights, but the starter does not turn over at all. Also,
there is now a repetitive clicking sound at the front of the cabin,
and the red LED below the wheel is blinking on and off, so I believe
this may have to do with the latent security system in the car.

What would cause the problems I am experiencing here?
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Old 15 Dec 2008, 06:57 am   #2 (permalink)
ransley
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Default Re: 1994 Camry - Starter not turning over

On Dec 15, 2:01*am, Clint <cthomas.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
> So, my 1994 Toyota Camry 4-Cyl (Engine 5S-FE) was recently having
> intermittent issues starting and operating. The difficulties came
> either starting cold or hot, sometimes I would need to turn the key
> longer than necessary when starting cold, or would need to wait 30-45
> minutes to start hot. Once, during operation at about 35mph, the
> engine stopped firing in mid drive.
>
> Because of how intermittent the problems were, I believed it was an
> electrical issue. I noticed that the battery terminals were fairly
> corroded, so I pulled the battery and cleaned both the contacts and
> the terminals.
>
> I pulled the sparks, found no evidence of corrosion or damage. They
> are only 15,000 miles old. I checked continuity in the cables to the
> distributor cap, and everything checked out fine.
>
> I pulled the rotor and dust cover from the distributor, removed the
> positive and negative terminals and checked the primary resistance on
> the Internal Ignition Coil. It tested around 1.9ohms, where specs for
> a good one are 0.4-0.5 ohms, so I replaced the Coil. This process
> required removal and reinstallation of the distributor.
>
> I reconnected all electrical relays and went to turn the car on. When
> I go to start the car, the lights on the clock dim, along with a few
> other HUD lights, but the starter does not turn over at all. Also,
> there is now a repetitive clicking sound at the front of the cabin,
> and the red LED below the wheel is blinking on and off, so I believe
> this may have to do with the latent security system in the car.
>
> What would cause the problems I am experiencing here?


The battery is easiest to fix, what is voltage, 12.8 would be full
charge after sitting a few hours 13.3 just after you turn it off. A
dead cell will give no performance and can still have high voltage.
Then its cables, they can break strands or the ground on the motor
could be bad. A starter clicking and dim lights is probably low
voltage. A bad coil is common and that would cause stalling, was the
old one Oil covered? Get the battery checked for free with a load test
maybe that is the whole issue. Or put a charger on it and be sure it
charges to at least 13.3v and tops out. www.batteryuniversity.com is
where to learn about batterys
  Reply With Quote
Old 15 Dec 2008, 07:18 am   #3 (permalink)
Clint
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Default Re: 1994 Camry - Starter not turning over

On Dec 15, 7:57*am, ransley <Mark_Rans...@Yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Dec 15, 2:01*am, Clint <cthomas.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > So, my 1994 Toyota Camry 4-Cyl (Engine 5S-FE) was recently having
> > intermittent issues starting and operating. The difficulties came
> > either starting cold or hot, sometimes I would need to turn the key
> > longer than necessary when starting cold, or would need to wait 30-45
> > minutes to start hot. Once, during operation at about 35mph, the
> > engine stopped firing in mid drive.

>
> > Because of how intermittent the problems were, I believed it was an
> > electrical issue. I noticed that the battery terminals were fairly
> > corroded, so I pulled the battery and cleaned both the contacts and
> > the terminals.

>
> > I pulled the sparks, found no evidence of corrosion or damage. They
> > are only 15,000 miles old. I checked continuity in the cables to the
> > distributor cap, and everything checked out fine.

>
> > I pulled the rotor and dust cover from the distributor, removed the
> > positive and negative terminals and checked the primary resistance on
> > the Internal Ignition Coil. It tested around 1.9ohms, where specs for
> > a good one are 0.4-0.5 ohms, so I replaced the Coil. This process
> > required removal and reinstallation of the distributor.

>
> > I reconnected all electrical relays and went to turn the car on. When
> > I go to start the car, the lights on the clock dim, along with a few
> > other HUD lights, but the starter does not turn over at all. Also,
> > there is now a repetitive clicking sound at the front of the cabin,
> > and the red LED below the wheel is blinking on and off, so I believe
> > this may have to do with the latent security system in the car.

>
> > What would cause the problems I am experiencing here?

>
> The battery is easiest to fix, what is voltage, 12.8 would be full
> charge after sitting a few hours 13.3 just after you turn it off. A
> dead cell will give no performance and can still have high voltage.
> Then its cables, they can break strands or the ground on the motor
> could be bad. A starter clicking and dim lights is probably low
> voltage. A bad coil is common and that would cause stalling, was the
> old one Oil covered? Get the battery checked for free with a load test
> maybe that is the whole issue. Or put a charger on it and be sure it
> charges to at least 13.3v and tops out.www.batteryuniversity.com*is
> where to learn about batterys




The Starter is not what makes the repeated clicking noise. The noise
is apparent from inside the cabin, even when the keys are taken out.
Sometimes it goes away, other times it comes back.

The battery tested at about 12.6v after sitting for a few days.

The old coil was not covered in oil.
  Reply With Quote
Old 15 Dec 2008, 08:54 pm   #4 (permalink)
Sharx35
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Default Re: 1994 Camry - Starter not turning over



"Clint" <cthomas.mail@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:00172668-b8b9-4c85-b361-b2e3c2b6e5b4@g38g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
> On Dec 15, 7:57 am, ransley <Mark_Rans...@Yahoo.com> wrote:
>> On Dec 15, 2:01 am, Clint <cthomas.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> > So, my 1994 Toyota Camry 4-Cyl (Engine 5S-FE) was recently having
>> > intermittent issues starting and operating. The difficulties came
>> > either starting cold or hot, sometimes I would need to turn the key
>> > longer than necessary when starting cold, or would need to wait 30-45
>> > minutes to start hot. Once, during operation at about 35mph, the
>> > engine stopped firing in mid drive.

>>
>> > Because of how intermittent the problems were, I believed it was an
>> > electrical issue. I noticed that the battery terminals were fairly
>> > corroded, so I pulled the battery and cleaned both the contacts and
>> > the terminals.

>>
>> > I pulled the sparks, found no evidence of corrosion or damage. They
>> > are only 15,000 miles old. I checked continuity in the cables to the
>> > distributor cap, and everything checked out fine.

>>
>> > I pulled the rotor and dust cover from the distributor, removed the
>> > positive and negative terminals and checked the primary resistance on
>> > the Internal Ignition Coil. It tested around 1.9ohms, where specs for
>> > a good one are 0.4-0.5 ohms, so I replaced the Coil. This process
>> > required removal and reinstallation of the distributor.

>>
>> > I reconnected all electrical relays and went to turn the car on. When
>> > I go to start the car, the lights on the clock dim, along with a few
>> > other HUD lights, but the starter does not turn over at all. Also,
>> > there is now a repetitive clicking sound at the front of the cabin,
>> > and the red LED below the wheel is blinking on and off, so I believe
>> > this may have to do with the latent security system in the car.

>>
>> > What would cause the problems I am experiencing here?

>>
>> The battery is easiest to fix, what is voltage, 12.8 would be full
>> charge after sitting a few hours 13.3 just after you turn it off. A
>> dead cell will give no performance and can still have high voltage.
>> Then its cables, they can break strands or the ground on the motor
>> could be bad. A starter clicking and dim lights is probably low
>> voltage. A bad coil is common and that would cause stalling, was the
>> old one Oil covered? Get the battery checked for free with a load test
>> maybe that is the whole issue. Or put a charger on it and be sure it
>> charges to at least 13.3v and tops out.www.batteryuniversity.com is
>> where to learn about batterys

>
>
>
> The Starter is not what makes the repeated clicking noise. The noise
> is apparent from inside the cabin, even when the keys are taken out.
> Sometimes it goes away, other times it comes back.


Certain hot parts of the engine click under certain cooling
conditions...once the engine is turned off, regardless of where the key is.


>
> The battery tested at about 12.6v after sitting for a few days.
>
> The old coil was not covered in oil.


  Reply With Quote
Old 16 Dec 2008, 12:02 am   #5 (permalink)
Clint
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Default Re: 1994 Camry - Starter not turning over

On Dec 15, 9:54*pm, "Sharx35" <shar...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> "Clint" <cthomas.m...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:00172668-b8b9-4c85-b361-b2e3c2b6e5b4@g38g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> > On Dec 15, 7:57 am, ransley <Mark_Rans...@Yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> On Dec 15, 2:01 am, Clint <cthomas.m...@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> >> > So, my 1994 Toyota Camry 4-Cyl (Engine 5S-FE) was recently having
> >> > intermittent issues starting and operating. The difficulties came
> >> > either starting cold or hot, sometimes I would need to turn the key
> >> > longer than necessary when starting cold, or would need to wait 30-45
> >> > minutes to start hot. Once, during operation at about 35mph, the
> >> > engine stopped firing in mid drive.

>
> >> > Because of how intermittent the problems were, I believed it was an
> >> > electrical issue. I noticed that the battery terminals were fairly
> >> > corroded, so I pulled the battery and cleaned both the contacts and
> >> > the terminals.

>
> >> > I pulled the sparks, found no evidence of corrosion or damage. They
> >> > are only 15,000 miles old. I checked continuity in the cables to the
> >> > distributor cap, and everything checked out fine.

>
> >> > I pulled the rotor and dust cover from the distributor, removed the
> >> > positive and negative terminals and checked the primary resistance on
> >> > the Internal Ignition Coil. It tested around 1.9ohms, where specs for
> >> > a good one are 0.4-0.5 ohms, so I replaced the Coil. This process
> >> > required removal and reinstallation of the distributor.

>
> >> > I reconnected all electrical relays and went to turn the car on. When
> >> > I go to start the car, the lights on the clock dim, along with a few
> >> > other HUD lights, but the starter does not turn over at all. Also,
> >> > there is now a repetitive clicking sound at the front of the cabin,
> >> > and the red LED below the wheel is blinking on and off, so I believe
> >> > this may have to do with the latent security system in the car.

>
> >> > What would cause the problems I am experiencing here?

>
> >> The battery is easiest to fix, what is voltage, 12.8 would be full
> >> charge after sitting a few hours 13.3 just after you turn it off. A
> >> dead cell will give no performance and can still have high voltage.
> >> Then its cables, they can break strands or the ground on the motor
> >> could be bad. A starter clicking and dim lights is probably low
> >> voltage. A bad coil is common and that would cause stalling, was the
> >> old one Oil covered? Get the battery checked for free with a load test
> >> maybe that is the whole issue. Or put a charger on it and be sure it
> >> charges to at least 13.3v and tops out.www.batteryuniversity.comis
> >> where to learn about batterys

>
> > The Starter is not what makes the repeated clicking noise. The noise
> > is apparent from inside the cabin, even when the keys are taken out.
> > Sometimes it goes away, other times it comes back.

>
> Certain hot parts of the engine click under certain cooling
> conditions...once the engine is turned off, regardless of where the key is.
>
>
>
> > The battery tested at about 12.6v after sitting for a few days.

>
> > The old coil was not covered in oil.


So it turns out my third-party security system had an starter lockout
relay. The clicking was coming from a relay in the security system.
When I pulled the battery, it reset and armed the security system,
which then kept my car from starting. I pulled the manual and set it
to Valet mode, was able to start the car again.

But, after idle operation for 5-10 minutes, my engine dies. No engine
codes, no check engine light, it just stops firing. I connected the
jumpers to test for the fuel pump being non-operational, but I was
able to turn the fuel pump on. I also decided to try leaving the
ignition on to see if I could heat up the Ignitor module. When I did
this, 4 out of 5 times the car would not start at all. So for right
now, I am guessing that it might be a bad Ignitor.
  Reply With Quote
Old 16 Dec 2008, 12:03 am   #6 (permalink)
Clint
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Default Re: 1994 Camry - Starter not turning over

On Dec 15, 9:54*pm, "Sharx35" <shar...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> "Clint" <cthomas.m...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:00172668-b8b9-4c85-b361-b2e3c2b6e5b4@g38g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> > On Dec 15, 7:57 am, ransley <Mark_Rans...@Yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> On Dec 15, 2:01 am, Clint <cthomas.m...@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> >> > So, my 1994 Toyota Camry 4-Cyl (Engine 5S-FE) was recently having
> >> > intermittent issues starting and operating. The difficulties came
> >> > either starting cold or hot, sometimes I would need to turn the key
> >> > longer than necessary when starting cold, or would need to wait 30-45
> >> > minutes to start hot. Once, during operation at about 35mph, the
> >> > engine stopped firing in mid drive.

>
> >> > Because of how intermittent the problems were, I believed it was an
> >> > electrical issue. I noticed that the battery terminals were fairly
> >> > corroded, so I pulled the battery and cleaned both the contacts and
> >> > the terminals.

>
> >> > I pulled the sparks, found no evidence of corrosion or damage. They
> >> > are only 15,000 miles old. I checked continuity in the cables to the
> >> > distributor cap, and everything checked out fine.

>
> >> > I pulled the rotor and dust cover from the distributor, removed the
> >> > positive and negative terminals and checked the primary resistance on
> >> > the Internal Ignition Coil. It tested around 1.9ohms, where specs for
> >> > a good one are 0.4-0.5 ohms, so I replaced the Coil. This process
> >> > required removal and reinstallation of the distributor.

>
> >> > I reconnected all electrical relays and went to turn the car on. When
> >> > I go to start the car, the lights on the clock dim, along with a few
> >> > other HUD lights, but the starter does not turn over at all. Also,
> >> > there is now a repetitive clicking sound at the front of the cabin,
> >> > and the red LED below the wheel is blinking on and off, so I believe
> >> > this may have to do with the latent security system in the car.

>
> >> > What would cause the problems I am experiencing here?

>
> >> The battery is easiest to fix, what is voltage, 12.8 would be full
> >> charge after sitting a few hours 13.3 just after you turn it off. A
> >> dead cell will give no performance and can still have high voltage.
> >> Then its cables, they can break strands or the ground on the motor
> >> could be bad. A starter clicking and dim lights is probably low
> >> voltage. A bad coil is common and that would cause stalling, was the
> >> old one Oil covered? Get the battery checked for free with a load test
> >> maybe that is the whole issue. Or put a charger on it and be sure it
> >> charges to at least 13.3v and tops out.www.batteryuniversity.comis
> >> where to learn about batterys

>
> > The Starter is not what makes the repeated clicking noise. The noise
> > is apparent from inside the cabin, even when the keys are taken out.
> > Sometimes it goes away, other times it comes back.

>
> Certain hot parts of the engine click under certain cooling
> conditions...once the engine is turned off, regardless of where the key is.
>
>
>
> > The battery tested at about 12.6v after sitting for a few days.

>
> > The old coil was not covered in oil.


So it turns out my third-party security system had an starter lockout
relay. When I pulled the battery, it reset and armed the security
system, which then kept my car from starting. I pulled the manual and
set it to Valet mode, was able to start the car again.

But, after idle operation for 5-10 minutes, my engine dies. No engine
codes, no check engine light, it just stops firing. I connected the
jumpers to test for the fuel pump being non-operational, but I was
able to turn the fuel pump on. I also decided to try leaving the
ignition on to see if I could heat up the Ignitor module. When I did
this, 4 out of 5 times the car would not start at all. So for right
now, I am guessing that it might be a bad Ignitor.
  Reply With Quote
Old 16 Dec 2008, 12:03 am   #7 (permalink)
Clint
Guest
  • Posts: n/a
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Default Re: 1994 Camry - Starter not turning over

On Dec 15, 9:54*pm, "Sharx35" <shar...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> "Clint" <cthomas.m...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:00172668-b8b9-4c85-b361-b2e3c2b6e5b4@g38g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> > On Dec 15, 7:57 am, ransley <Mark_Rans...@Yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> On Dec 15, 2:01 am, Clint <cthomas.m...@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> >> > So, my 1994 Toyota Camry 4-Cyl (Engine 5S-FE) was recently having
> >> > intermittent issues starting and operating. The difficulties came
> >> > either starting cold or hot, sometimes I would need to turn the key
> >> > longer than necessary when starting cold, or would need to wait 30-45
> >> > minutes to start hot. Once, during operation at about 35mph, the
> >> > engine stopped firing in mid drive.

>
> >> > Because of how intermittent the problems were, I believed it was an
> >> > electrical issue. I noticed that the battery terminals were fairly
> >> > corroded, so I pulled the battery and cleaned both the contacts and
> >> > the terminals.

>
> >> > I pulled the sparks, found no evidence of corrosion or damage. They
> >> > are only 15,000 miles old. I checked continuity in the cables to the
> >> > distributor cap, and everything checked out fine.

>
> >> > I pulled the rotor and dust cover from the distributor, removed the
> >> > positive and negative terminals and checked the primary resistance on
> >> > the Internal Ignition Coil. It tested around 1.9ohms, where specs for
> >> > a good one are 0.4-0.5 ohms, so I replaced the Coil. This process
> >> > required removal and reinstallation of the distributor.

>
> >> > I reconnected all electrical relays and went to turn the car on. When
> >> > I go to start the car, the lights on the clock dim, along with a few
> >> > other HUD lights, but the starter does not turn over at all. Also,
> >> > there is now a repetitive clicking sound at the front of the cabin,
> >> > and the red LED below the wheel is blinking on and off, so I believe
> >> > this may have to do with the latent security system in the car.

>
> >> > What would cause the problems I am experiencing here?

>
> >> The battery is easiest to fix, what is voltage, 12.8 would be full
> >> charge after sitting a few hours 13.3 just after you turn it off. A
> >> dead cell will give no performance and can still have high voltage.
> >> Then its cables, they can break strands or the ground on the motor
> >> could be bad. A starter clicking and dim lights is probably low
> >> voltage. A bad coil is common and that would cause stalling, was the
> >> old one Oil covered? Get the battery checked for free with a load test
> >> maybe that is the whole issue. Or put a charger on it and be sure it
> >> charges to at least 13.3v and tops out.www.batteryuniversity.comis
> >> where to learn about batterys

>
> > The Starter is not what makes the repeated clicking noise. The noise
> > is apparent from inside the cabin, even when the keys are taken out.
> > Sometimes it goes away, other times it comes back.

>
> Certain hot parts of the engine click under certain cooling
> conditions...once the engine is turned off, regardless of where the key is.
>
>
>
> > The battery tested at about 12.6v after sitting for a few days.

>
> > The old coil was not covered in oil.


So it turns out my third-party security system had an starter lockout
relay. When I pulled the battery, it reset and armed the security
system, which then kept my car from starting. I pulled the manual and
set it to Valet mode, was able to start the car again.

But, after idle operation for 5-10 minutes, my engine dies. No engine
codes, no check engine light, it just stops firing. I connected the
jumpers to test for the fuel pump being non-operational, but I was
able to turn the fuel pump on. I also decided to try leaving the
ignition on to see if I could heat up the Ignitor module. When I did
this, 4 out of 5 times the car would not start at all. So for right
now, I am guessing that it might be a bad Ignitor.
  Reply With Quote
Old 16 Dec 2008, 07:36 am   #8 (permalink)
ransley
Guest
  • Posts: n/a
  • User Status:


Default Re: 1994 Camry - Starter not turning over

On Dec 16, 12:03*am, Clint <cthomas.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Dec 15, 9:54*pm, "Sharx35" <shar...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > "Clint" <cthomas.m...@gmail.com> wrote in message

>
> >news:00172668-b8b9-4c85-b361-b2e3c2b6e5b4@g38g2000yqd.googlegroups.com....

>
> > > On Dec 15, 7:57 am, ransley <Mark_Rans...@Yahoo.com> wrote:
> > >> On Dec 15, 2:01 am, Clint <cthomas.m...@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> > >> > So, my 1994 Toyota Camry 4-Cyl (Engine 5S-FE) was recently having
> > >> > intermittent issues starting and operating. The difficulties came
> > >> > either starting cold or hot, sometimes I would need to turn the key
> > >> > longer than necessary when starting cold, or would need to wait 30-45
> > >> > minutes to start hot. Once, during operation at about 35mph, the
> > >> > engine stopped firing in mid drive.

>
> > >> > Because of how intermittent the problems were, I believed it was an
> > >> > electrical issue. I noticed that the battery terminals were fairly
> > >> > corroded, so I pulled the battery and cleaned both the contacts and
> > >> > the terminals.

>
> > >> > I pulled the sparks, found no evidence of corrosion or damage. They
> > >> > are only 15,000 miles old. I checked continuity in the cables to the
> > >> > distributor cap, and everything checked out fine.

>
> > >> > I pulled the rotor and dust cover from the distributor, removed the
> > >> > positive and negative terminals and checked the primary resistanceon
> > >> > the Internal Ignition Coil. It tested around 1.9ohms, where specs for
> > >> > a good one are 0.4-0.5 ohms, so I replaced the Coil. This process
> > >> > required removal and reinstallation of the distributor.

>
> > >> > I reconnected all electrical relays and went to turn the car on. When
> > >> > I go to start the car, the lights on the clock dim, along with a few
> > >> > other HUD lights, but the starter does not turn over at all. Also,
> > >> > there is now a repetitive clicking sound at the front of the cabin,
> > >> > and the red LED below the wheel is blinking on and off, so I believe
> > >> > this may have to do with the latent security system in the car.

>
> > >> > What would cause the problems I am experiencing here?

>
> > >> The battery is easiest to fix, what is voltage, 12.8 would be full
> > >> charge after sitting a few hours 13.3 just after you turn it off. A
> > >> dead cell will give no performance and can still have high voltage.
> > >> Then its cables, they can break strands or the ground on the motor
> > >> could be bad. A starter clicking and dim lights is probably low
> > >> voltage. A bad coil is common and that would cause stalling, was the
> > >> old one Oil covered? Get the battery checked for free with a load test
> > >> maybe that is the whole issue. Or put a charger on it and be sure it
> > >> charges to at least 13.3v and tops out.www.batteryuniversity.comis
> > >> where to learn about batterys

>
> > > The Starter is not what makes the repeated clicking noise. The noise
> > > is apparent from inside the cabin, even when the keys are taken out.
> > > Sometimes it goes away, other times it comes back.

>
> > Certain hot parts of the engine click under certain cooling
> > conditions...once the engine is turned off, regardless of where the keyis.

>
> > > The battery tested at about 12.6v after sitting for a few days.

>
> > > The old coil was not covered in oil.

>
> So it turns out my third-party security system had an starter lockout
> relay. When I pulled the battery, it reset and armed the security
> system, which then kept my car from starting. I pulled the manual and
> set it to Valet mode, was able to start the car again.
>
> But, after idle operation for 5-10 minutes, my engine dies. No engine
> codes, no check engine light, it just stops firing. I connected the
> jumpers to test for the fuel pump being non-operational, but I was
> able to turn the fuel pump on. I also decided to try leaving the
> ignition on to see if I could heat up the Ignitor module. When I did
> this, 4 out of 5 times the car would not start at all. So for right
> now, I am guessing that it might be a bad Ignitor.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


Try disconecing the alarm again and see if it dies. After it dies I
would also check to be sure there is no spark. 12.6 is about 70-80%
charged. I was going to buy an after market coil at a store and the
guy behind the counter said about 1% were defective, that is a high
rate. I didnt buy one but cleaned mine. Are you sure the cap is tight,
is it damp where you are, a slightly loose cap caused my major
problems for years, after the motor warmed it would no fire on load.
My 91 says to put in a new cap gasket with new cap, but cap sets dont
come with gaskets and only Toy dealer could order one. Does it refire
after it dies, does it run rough when accelerating, mine would dry out
after 45 minutes then be ok for the day.
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Old 16 Dec 2008, 07:58 am   #9 (permalink)
Clint
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Default Re: 1994 Camry - Starter not turning over

On Dec 16, 8:36*am, ransley <Mark_Rans...@Yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Dec 16, 12:03*am, Clint <cthomas.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Dec 15, 9:54*pm, "Sharx35" <shar...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>
> > > "Clint" <cthomas.m...@gmail.com> wrote in message

>
> > >news:00172668-b8b9-4c85-b361-b2e3c2b6e5b4@g38g2000yqd.googlegroups.com....

>
> > > > On Dec 15, 7:57 am, ransley <Mark_Rans...@Yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > >> On Dec 15, 2:01 am, Clint <cthomas.m...@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> > > >> > So, my 1994 Toyota Camry 4-Cyl (Engine 5S-FE) was recently having
> > > >> > intermittent issues starting and operating. The difficulties came
> > > >> > either starting cold or hot, sometimes I would need to turn the key
> > > >> > longer than necessary when starting cold, or would need to wait 30-45
> > > >> > minutes to start hot. Once, during operation at about 35mph, the
> > > >> > engine stopped firing in mid drive.

>
> > > >> > Because of how intermittent the problems were, I believed it wasan
> > > >> > electrical issue. I noticed that the battery terminals were fairly
> > > >> > corroded, so I pulled the battery and cleaned both the contacts and
> > > >> > the terminals.

>
> > > >> > I pulled the sparks, found no evidence of corrosion or damage. They
> > > >> > are only 15,000 miles old. I checked continuity in the cables tothe
> > > >> > distributor cap, and everything checked out fine.

>
> > > >> > I pulled the rotor and dust cover from the distributor, removed the
> > > >> > positive and negative terminals and checked the primary resistance on
> > > >> > the Internal Ignition Coil. It tested around 1.9ohms, where specs for
> > > >> > a good one are 0.4-0.5 ohms, so I replaced the Coil. This process
> > > >> > required removal and reinstallation of the distributor.

>
> > > >> > I reconnected all electrical relays and went to turn the car on.When
> > > >> > I go to start the car, the lights on the clock dim, along with afew
> > > >> > other HUD lights, but the starter does not turn over at all. Also,
> > > >> > there is now a repetitive clicking sound at the front of the cabin,
> > > >> > and the red LED below the wheel is blinking on and off, so I believe
> > > >> > this may have to do with the latent security system in the car.

>
> > > >> > What would cause the problems I am experiencing here?

>
> > > >> The battery is easiest to fix, what is voltage, 12.8 would be full
> > > >> charge after sitting a few hours 13.3 just after you turn it off. A
> > > >> dead cell will give no performance and can still have high voltage..
> > > >> Then its cables, they can break strands or the ground on the motor
> > > >> could be bad. A starter clicking and dim lights is probably low
> > > >> voltage. A bad coil is common and that would cause stalling, was the
> > > >> old one Oil covered? Get the battery checked for free with a load test
> > > >> maybe that is the whole issue. Or put a charger on it and be sure it
> > > >> charges to at least 13.3v and tops out.www.batteryuniversity.comis
> > > >> where to learn about batterys

>
> > > > The Starter is not what makes the repeated clicking noise. The noise
> > > > is apparent from inside the cabin, even when the keys are taken out..
> > > > Sometimes it goes away, other times it comes back.

>
> > > Certain hot parts of the engine click under certain cooling
> > > conditions...once the engine is turned off, regardless of where the key is.

>
> > > > The battery tested at about 12.6v after sitting for a few days.

>
> > > > The old coil was not covered in oil.

>
> > So it turns out my third-party security system had an starter lockout
> > relay. When I pulled the battery, it reset and armed the security
> > system, which then kept my car from starting. I pulled the manual and
> > set it to Valet mode, was able to start the car again.

>
> > But, after idle operation for 5-10 minutes, my engine dies. No engine
> > codes, no check engine light, it just stops firing. I connected the
> > jumpers to test for the fuel pump being non-operational, but I was
> > able to turn the fuel pump on. I also decided to try leaving the
> > ignition on to see if I could heat up the Ignitor module. When I did
> > this, 4 out of 5 times the car would not start at all. So for right
> > now, I am guessing that it might be a bad Ignitor.- Hide quoted text -

>
> > - Show quoted text -

>
> Try disconecing the alarm again and see if it dies. After it dies I
> would also check to be sure there is no spark. 12.6 is about 70-80%
> charged. I was going to buy an after market coil at a store and the
> guy behind the counter said about 1% were defective, that is a high
> rate. I didnt buy one but cleaned mine. Are you sure the cap is tight,
> is it damp where you are, a slightly loose cap caused my major
> problems for years, after the motor warmed it would no fire on load.
> My 91 says to put in a new cap gasket with new cap, but cap sets dont
> come with gaskets and only Toy dealer could order one. Does it refire
> after it dies, does it run rough when accelerating, mine would dry out
> after 45 minutes then be ok for the day.


Well, this time the alarm should not be getting in the way of the
motor. It is in permanent Valet mode (as it was before, I never used
the alarm) so it should not be getting in the way.

Actually, I forgot to check the internal resistance of the pickup coil
as well. Turns out that the pickup coil is off its mark. Maximum
internal resistance from G+ to G- terminals should be 275ohms
according to Haynes, but mine is around 305ohms, so it looks like I
may need a new distributor instead.
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