1991 tail lights out

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Old 07 Oct 2003, 09:41 pm   #1 (permalink)
duggy
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Default 1991 tail lights out

All other lights in working order. Bought new bulbs, and even replaced the
other working bulbs. Fuse is fine. Swapped out and tested fine. Other
items controled by same fuse working.

Not a good time for me to take a financial hit, so if anyone has any
suggestions I might try prior to going to a mechanic, they would be
appreciated.

I'm car illiterate. So I'll just mention that the front brakes have about
an 1/8 left on them, in case there's any sensor that might be creeping into
the picture here that might trip things up. I assume that's not the case,
but then, what do I know?

Thanks for any help.
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Old 08 Oct 2003, 08:19 am   #2 (permalink)
duggy
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Default Re: 1991 tail lights out

duggy <yoiut@aol.com> wrote in
news:ePKgb.26895$9a7.7679@bignews6.bellsouth.net:

> All other lights in working order. Bought new bulbs, and even
> replaced the other working bulbs. Fuse is fine. Swapped out and
> tested fine. Other items controled by same fuse working.
>
> Not a good time for me to take a financial hit, so if anyone has any
> suggestions I might try prior to going to a mechanic, they would be
> appreciated.
>
> I'm car illiterate. So I'll just mention that the front brakes have
> about an 1/8 left on them, in case there's any sensor that might be
> creeping into the picture here that might trip things up. I assume
> that's not the case, but then, what do I know?
>
> Thanks for any help.
>


Nevermind. I did a Google search and found out about the yellow Lamp
Failure box. Checked it, and the board has a wire that burned until it
split, much like the wire of a fuse does. I will post a question about
this box in a new thread titled Lamp Failure Box.

thanks
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Old 08 Oct 2003, 12:31 pm   #3 (permalink)
duggy
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Default Re: 1991 tail lights out

duggy <omd@msn.com> wrote in
news:Xns940D5FEF0E3ENOSPAMhomecom@204.127.199.17:

> duggy <yoiut@aol.com> wrote in
> news:ePKgb.26895$9a7.7679@bignews6.bellsouth.net:
>
>> All other lights in working order. Bought new bulbs, and even
>> replaced the other working bulbs. Fuse is fine. Swapped out and
>> tested fine. Other items controled by same fuse working.
>>
>> Not a good time for me to take a financial hit, so if anyone has any
>> suggestions I might try prior to going to a mechanic, they would be
>> appreciated.
>>
>> I'm car illiterate. So I'll just mention that the front brakes have
>> about an 1/8 left on them, in case there's any sensor that might be
>> creeping into the picture here that might trip things up. I assume
>> that's not the case, but then, what do I know?
>>
>> Thanks for any help.
>>

>
> Nevermind. I did a Google search and found out about the yellow Lamp
> Failure box. Checked it, and the board has a wire that burned until it
> split, much like the wire of a fuse does. I will post a question about
> this box in a new thread titled Lamp Failure Box.
>
> thanks


Well, I ended up not needing to ask the question, so I'll just post here
how I solved my problem for any future Googlers. I read a thread about
soldering the broken burned wires back together, and thought I'd give it a
try. I guess I probably could have laid a blob of sodder material big
enough to bridge the gap of the broken wire, but I didn't do that.
Instead, I found an old circuit board from a dead computer mouse, and
ripped off one of the little wires with the rubber piece in the center (if
you look at the Lamp Failure Box, you'll see them all over and know what
I'm talking about). It probably had about an 3/16" wire protruding from
each side. I laid that piece down next to the broken wire, with the rubber
center piece next to the gap in the wire that needed repair, and the wire
at the ends of the piece curved so they touched (or were very close) to
each side of the wire that needed repair. Then I applied the solder
material to connect each side where the repair piece touched the broken
piece. A union was thus created, and after plugging the box back in, Wa
La!, I have a working Lamp Failure Box.

You gotta love the internet.
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Old 08 Oct 2003, 01:26 pm   #4 (permalink)
Jason James
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Default Re: 1991 tail lights out


"duggy" <09870m@aol.com> wrote in message
news:Xns940D8ACD6CA71NOSPAMhomecom@204.127.204.17. ..
> duggy <omd@msn.com> wrote in
> news:Xns940D5FEF0E3ENOSPAMhomecom@204.127.199.17:
>
> > duggy <yoiut@aol.com> wrote in
> > news:ePKgb.26895$9a7.7679@bignews6.bellsouth.net:
> >
> >> All other lights in working order. Bought new bulbs, and even
> >> replaced the other working bulbs. Fuse is fine. Swapped out and
> >> tested fine. Other items controled by same fuse working.
> >>
> >> Not a good time for me to take a financial hit, so if anyone has any
> >> suggestions I might try prior to going to a mechanic, they would be
> >> appreciated.
> >>
> >> I'm car illiterate. So I'll just mention that the front brakes have
> >> about an 1/8 left on them, in case there's any sensor that might be
> >> creeping into the picture here that might trip things up. I assume
> >> that's not the case, but then, what do I know?
> >>
> >> Thanks for any help.
> >>

> >
> > Nevermind. I did a Google search and found out about the yellow Lamp
> > Failure box. Checked it, and the board has a wire that burned until it
> > split, much like the wire of a fuse does. I will post a question about
> > this box in a new thread titled Lamp Failure Box.
> >
> > thanks

>
> Well, I ended up not needing to ask the question, so I'll just post here
> how I solved my problem for any future Googlers. I read a thread about
> soldering the broken burned wires back together, and thought I'd give it a
> try. I guess I probably could have laid a blob of sodder material big
> enough to bridge the gap of the broken wire, but I didn't do that.
> Instead, I found an old circuit board from a dead computer mouse, and
> ripped off one of the little wires with the rubber piece in the center (if
> you look at the Lamp Failure Box, you'll see them all over and know what
> I'm talking about). It probably had about an 3/16" wire protruding from
> each side. I laid that piece down next to the broken wire, with the

rubber
> center piece next to the gap in the wire that needed repair, and the wire
> at the ends of the piece curved so they touched (or were very close) to
> each side of the wire that needed repair. Then I applied the solder
> material to connect each side where the repair piece touched the broken
> piece. A union was thus created, and after plugging the box back in, Wa
> La!, I have a working Lamp Failure Box.
>
> You gotta love the internet.


Well done,...makes one think about the situation that arose in the first
place to damage the LFB tho.

Jason


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Old 11 Oct 2003, 06:54 am   #5 (permalink)
duggy
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Default Re: 1991 tail lights out

"Jason James" <flyhi@byplane.com> wrote in
news:lFYgb.141996$bo1.130993@news-server.bigpond.net.au:


>
> Well done,...makes one think about the situation that arose in the
> first place to damage the LFB tho.
>
> Jason
>


I suspect that was yours truly plugging in a 1257 bulb into a 1256 socket
(or vice versa) to test it. I wasn't aware you could burn out the Lamp
Failure Box board doing this until I browsed the old posts with Google.
Hell, I didn't even know about the Lamp Failure Box.

The solder didn't hold very long. I'm not good at it, and couldn't get the
melted solder to completly engulf both the patch wire and the original
wire, so when it heated up with use, it fell off. It looks like a trip to
the junkyard may be in order. For my second attempt I scrounged a longer
piece of wire to patch it with, this time twisting them at the connection
point between original and patch. Then at the other end I completely
removed the other half of the original because it wasn't attached well
anyway, and I extended the patch wire through the board hole and soldered
it. Only problem is now almost all the brake lights come on with the tail
lights, although they do become brighter when I hit the brakes so it's
still a functional situation. It probably has to do with using to big a
glob of solder where I stuck the wire through the hole, and it may have
bleeded over to a point where it shouldn't have. I have to make it fairly
big just because the original damage to the board had made the pin hole
bigger. But I'm going to try to reduce the glob and see if it makes a
difference.

When I pulled the board after a test drive, it was warm. I don't know how
hot it is supposed to get under normal conditions. I may take my parents
92 on a similar drive and see how warm the LFB gets. I'm not sure its as
easily accessed on their car, however. I'll google to find out where it is
on that car. It's interesting to try and fix this board, though. If I had
known it would actually work, I might have put more effort into my first
attempt.
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Old 26 Oct 2003, 10:37 am   #6 (permalink)
duggy
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Default Re: 1991 tail lights out

duggy <ywersht@aol.com> wrote in
news:PbShb.780$JE4.706@bignews4.bellsouth.net:

> "Jason James" <flyhi@byplane.com> wrote in
> news:lFYgb.141996$bo1.130993@news-server.bigpond.net.au:
>
>
>>
>> Well done,...makes one think about the situation that arose in the
>> first place to damage the LFB tho.
>>
>> Jason
>>

>
> I suspect that was yours truly plugging in a 1257 bulb into a 1256
> socket (or vice versa) to test it. I wasn't aware you could burn out
> the Lamp Failure Box board doing this until I browsed the old posts
> with Google. Hell, I didn't even know about the Lamp Failure Box.
>
> The solder didn't hold very long. I'm not good at it, and couldn't
> get the melted solder to completly engulf both the patch wire and the
> original wire, so when it heated up with use, it fell off. It looks
> like a trip to the junkyard may be in order. For my second attempt I
> scrounged a longer piece of wire to patch it with, this time twisting
> them at the connection point between original and patch. Then at the
> other end I completely removed the other half of the original because
> it wasn't attached well anyway, and I extended the patch wire through
> the board hole and soldered it. Only problem is now almost all the
> brake lights come on with the tail lights, although they do become
> brighter when I hit the brakes so it's still a functional situation.
> It probably has to do with using to big a glob of solder where I stuck
> the wire through the hole, and it may have bleeded over to a point
> where it shouldn't have. I have to make it fairly big just because
> the original damage to the board had made the pin hole bigger. But
> I'm going to try to reduce the glob and see if it makes a difference.
>
> When I pulled the board after a test drive, it was warm. I don't know
> how hot it is supposed to get under normal conditions. I may take my
> parents 92 on a similar drive and see how warm the LFB gets. I'm not
> sure its as easily accessed on their car, however. I'll google to find
> out where it is on that car. It's interesting to try and fix this
> board, though. If I had known it would actually work, I might have
> put more effort into my first attempt.


For the record, I wasn't able to fix the problem with the soldered box, but
now it appears the soldering wasn't the problem. Whatever the cause, all
the brake lights remain on (albeit dimmer than when hitting the brake
pedal) when the tailights are turned on, and when I replaced the repaired
box with a working one from a junkyard, the problem remained. So I'm
guessing this is a symptom of a bad ground somewhere. Probably not
something I'll be able to track down on my own being a novice, so it looks
like I'll be ponying up some bucks to someone. Damn.

In the meantime, at least the car is usable. I just hope I'm not making
things worse by running the lights this way. I try not to drive it at
night.

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Old 26 Oct 2003, 06:09 pm   #7 (permalink)
Philip
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Default Re: 1991 tail lights out

Have you inspected the harnass feeding the tail/brake lights where it
runs past the trunk lid hinges for chaffing thru the wire(s)
insulation?
--

~~Philip "Never let school interfere
with your education - Mark Twain"

In news:Xns941F818E33DB7NOSPAMhomecom@204.127.204.17,
duggy <nospam@home.com> being of bellicose mind posted:
> duggy <ywersht@aol.com> wrote in
> news:PbShb.780$JE4.706@bignews4.bellsouth.net:
>
> > "Jason James" <flyhi@byplane.com> wrote in
> > news:lFYgb.141996$bo1.130993@news-server.bigpond.net.au:
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Well done,...makes one think about the situation that arose in
> > > the first place to damage the LFB tho.
> > >
> > > Jason
> > >

> >
> > I suspect that was yours truly plugging in a 1257 bulb into a
> > 1256 socket (or vice versa) to test it. I wasn't aware you
> > could burn out the Lamp Failure Box board doing this until I
> > browsed the old posts with Google. Hell, I didn't even know
> > about the Lamp Failure Box.
> >
> > The solder didn't hold very long. I'm not good at it, and
> > couldn't get the melted solder to completly engulf both the
> > patch wire and the original wire, so when it heated up with use,
> > it fell off. It looks like a trip to the junkyard may be in
> > order. For my second attempt I scrounged a longer piece of wire
> > to patch it with, this time twisting them at the connection
> > point between original and patch. Then at the other end I
> > completely removed the other half of the original because it
> > wasn't attached well anyway, and I extended the patch wire
> > through the board hole and soldered it. Only problem is now
> > almost all the brake lights come on with the tail lights,
> > although they do become brighter when I hit the brakes so it's
> > still a functional situation. It probably has to do with using
> > to big a glob of solder where I stuck the wire through the hole,
> > and it may have bleeded over to a point where it shouldn't have.
> > I have to make it fairly big just because the original damage to
> > the board had made the pin hole bigger. But I'm going to try to
> > reduce the glob and see if it makes a difference.
> >
> > When I pulled the board after a test drive, it was warm. I
> > don't know how hot it is supposed to get under normal
> > conditions. I may take my parents 92 on a similar drive and see
> > how warm the LFB gets. I'm not sure its as easily accessed on
> > their car, however. I'll google to find out where it is on that
> > car. It's interesting to try and fix this board, though. If I
> > had known it would actually work, I might have put more effort
> > into my first attempt.

>
> For the record, I wasn't able to fix the problem with the soldered
> box, but now it appears the soldering wasn't the problem.
> Whatever the cause, all the brake lights remain on (albeit dimmer
> than when hitting the brake pedal) when the tailights are turned
> on, and when I replaced the repaired box with a working one from a
> junkyard, the problem remained. So I'm guessing this is a symptom
> of a bad ground somewhere. Probably not something I'll be able to
> track down on my own being a novice, so it looks like I'll be
> ponying up some bucks to someone. Damn.
>
> In the meantime, at least the car is usable. I just hope I'm not
> making things worse by running the lights this way. I try not to
> drive it at night.




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Old 29 Oct 2003, 01:40 pm   #8 (permalink)
duggy
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Default Re: 1991 tail lights out

"Philip " <1chip-state1@earthlink.net.invalid> wrote in
news:ymZmb.3423$RQ1.1617@newsread3.news.pas.earthl ink.net:

> Have you inspected the harnass feeding the tail/brake lights where it
> runs past the trunk lid hinges for chaffing thru the wire(s)
> insulation?


Only a cursory look. I unwound some electrical tape and took a peek, but
I'll have to really get close in with a flashlight and examine them.
Thanks for the nudge. I need to get at it.
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Old 29 Oct 2003, 07:21 pm   #9 (permalink)
Zipdisk
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Default Re: 1991 tail lights out

Often, the wire insulation is not broken, but, the wires within are. In
such a case you may notice a slightly discolored and pinched point in
the insulation.


On Wed, 29 Oct 2003 19:40:15 GMT, duggy <nospam@home.com> wrote:

>"Philip " <1chip-state1@earthlink.net.invalid> wrote in
>news:ymZmb.3423$RQ1.1617@newsread3.news.pas.earth link.net:
>
>> Have you inspected the harnass feeding the tail/brake lights where it
>> runs past the trunk lid hinges for chaffing thru the wire(s)
>> insulation?

>
>Only a cursory look. I unwound some electrical tape and took a peek, but
>I'll have to really get close in with a flashlight and examine them.
>Thanks for the nudge. I need to get at it.


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