Clarifications-how to remove ball joints

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Old 08 Apr 2004, 12:00 pm   #1 (permalink)
Matt
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Default Clarifications-how to remove ball joints

I should clarify my posting. I noticed the dust covers (sealed
lubricant) at ball joints are cracked and dirts collected there.
Hand-removing a little dirt, I could see some clean grase. According
to FSM, this is nightmare work to do. Does anyone experience this?
Other than tie rod end pullers, what other tools I should have in
hands? I have regular brake. What will I expect to run into while
replacing them? Do I need to realign the front wheel?

Thanks in advance,
Matt
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Old 08 Apr 2004, 05:32 pm   #2 (permalink)
Jason James
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Default Re: Clarifications-how to remove ball joints


"Matt" <mliao6990@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:2479e49.0404080900.6200d115@posting.google.co m...
> I should clarify my posting. I noticed the dust covers (sealed
> lubricant) at ball joints are cracked and dirts collected there.
> Hand-removing a little dirt, I could see some clean grase. According
> to FSM, this is nightmare work to do. Does anyone experience this?
> Other than tie rod end pullers, what other tools I should have in
> hands? I have regular brake. What will I expect to run into while
> replacing them? Do I need to realign the front wheel?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Matt



Separating a ball-joint or tie-rod-end requires a degree of expertise. If
there is a special 'separating tool' which is not one of those destructive
'universal' prong-types which damages the joint and is only used when
replacing with a new one, it wouldbe the best way.

Once the road wheel is off, some method of applying a slight force so that
when the taper is sprung, the joints peg will drop out of the knucle is
required.

- get a helper to use a short piece of pipe or wood to lever against the
lower control-arm, thus applying a mild separating force.

or

- one way is to jack the wheel hub with a second jack (the first being in
place to support the car once the road wheel was previously removed) By
jacking the hub up about 6", the lower arm will be working against its inner
bushes natural at-rest position and thus will fall out when the taper is
sprung.

or

- place a small jack ( eg scissor-type) between the lower arm and the inner
sub-frame or body and apply slight vertical pressure.

or

- install a puller, tho this will reduce the surface area available to hit
with the hammer when 'springing' the taper-joint.


Some people just wail away at the joint with a hammer in the hope it will
separate,..it rarely does. If you can get a helper to hold a large hammer
(4lb sledge ideal) on the opposite side of the taper, you then take a well
aimed swing at the taper with your hammer which can be smaller (a
nail-hammer will do), and if hit accurately it will separate.

Realignment not necessary, unless a new joint is installed.

Jason


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