96 Camry Water pump died?

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Old 02 Oct 2004, 01:34 am   #1 (permalink)
doommarine44
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Default 96 Camry Water pump died?

Hello I was driving my 96 camry, and it started making a sort of bumping
noise and sputtering.. then it just died, we got out looked under the hood
it was smoking a bit, it didnt over heat as far as i know.. but the coolant
came rushing out of the water pump it bled everywhere.. what could this
mean?? the pump locked? I intend to replace it but... could their be bad
problems with the engine? Or should it be ok after replacing the water
pump?


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Old 02 Oct 2004, 09:39 am   #2 (permalink)
Mark A
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Default Re: 96 Camry Water pump died?

"doommarine44" <cowart@alltel.net> wrote in message
news:d39f61c1628cefb35d17b890b63b2740@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Hello I was driving my 96 camry, and it started making a sort of bumping
> noise and sputtering.. then it just died, we got out looked under the hood
> it was smoking a bit, it didnt over heat as far as i know.. but the

coolant
> came rushing out of the water pump it bled everywhere.. what could this
> mean?? the pump locked? I intend to replace it but... could their be bad
> problems with the engine? Or should it be ok after replacing the water
> pump?
>

If the engine died and all the belts are intact, it may be more than just
the water pump. But there is no way any of us can really know without seeing
the engine. Have a mechanic look at it.


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Old 02 Oct 2004, 10:42 am   #3 (permalink)
Jason James
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Default Re: 96 Camry Water pump died?


"doommarine44" <cowart@alltel.net> wrote in message
news:d39f61c1628cefb35d17b890b63b2740@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Hello I was driving my 96 camry, and it started making a sort of bumping
> noise and sputtering.. then it just died, we got out looked under the hood
> it was smoking a bit, it didnt over heat as far as i know.. but the

coolant
> came rushing out of the water pump it bled everywhere.. what could this
> mean?? the pump locked? I intend to replace it but... could their be bad
> problems with the engine? Or should it be ok after replacing the water
> pump?



I have a dislike for temperature gauges without a supporting
over-temperature red light which gets the drivers attention.

If your engine has blown all its coolant out,..it follows that 1. the
cooling system failed and 2. keep your fingers crossed the engine did not
get hot enough to sustain damage in the head area firstly,..piston and bore
secondly.

Check for water in the oil by draining the sump. Check that there is no
water in the cylinders, by removng eaxh plug,..crank the engine (dont allow
it to start, by disonnecting the ignition wires) look for water or colant
mist from eacxh plug-hole in turn.

Once all this has been done, get each cylinder checked for compression. A
blown h/gasket will cause one or more cyls to have little compression.


Water-pumps almost always suffer drive-shaft seal failure prior to blowing
their guts. Locking is something I only heard of once,..and that was in a
'race' Renault 10 engine which had been over-revved. The other failure is
the impellor (the spinning fan-like thing which actually pumps the water
around) free-wheeling on the drive shaft.

Jason


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Old 03 Oct 2004, 01:05 am   #4 (permalink)
doommarine44
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Default Re: 96 Camry Water pump died?

I forgot to say, that it didnt bleed all the coolant out until AFTER it
went dead, I heard and felt a sputtering for a few seconds then i let off
the gas a bit and it just went dead, check engine light came on, and i
forgot to mention that there was oil in most of the spark plug wells, It
had a minor case of this before all of this. Any ideas what could have
taken place? Did the water pump seal just go out after oil choked down the
spark plugs?? a strange coincedence? or could oil in the plug wells cause
the pump somehow to mess up.. doubt that but its odd still..

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Old 03 Oct 2004, 04:31 am   #5 (permalink)
Jason James
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Default Re: 96 Camry Water pump died?


"doommarine44" <cowart@alltel.net> wrote in message
news:aacc9316830ee70c727639c31f63f997@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> I forgot to say, that it didnt bleed all the coolant out until AFTER it
> went dead, I heard and felt a sputtering for a few seconds then i let off
> the gas a bit and it just went dead, check engine light came on, and i
> forgot to mention that there was oil in most of the spark plug wells, It
> had a minor case of this before all of this. Any ideas what could have
> taken place? Did the water pump seal just go out after oil choked down the
> spark plugs?? a strange coincedence? or could oil in the plug wells cause
> the pump somehow to mess up.. doubt that but its odd still..
>


While its theoretically possible for the plug-tube seals to start leaking in
the event of a catastrophical overheated head,..this is not the case with
yours I'm sure,.plus those tubes can start leaking any old time. As long as
the engine was shutdown before it got too hot,.ands that timeinterval is
hard to evaluate,..but once the coolant has dropped to 1/2 in the
block/radiator,.you may still have minutes before damage,..if most of the
coolant has exited the motor,.you have seconds,...

Jason


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Old 09 Oct 2004, 08:50 am   #6 (permalink)
Kestrel
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Default Re: 96 Camry Water pump died?

Just a possibility, but the timing belt drives the water pump on the
4-cylinder engine in the '96 Camry. (Don't know about the 6-cylinder) My
wife's '96 had a coolant leak that I had not tracked down yet when the
timing belt broke, thereby stopping the car dead in its tracks and
alerting us to the fact that the water pump was the source of the leak. (I
worked in a radiator shop for 25 years--you would think I would have
figured it out before then---I hadn't been able to find the water pump by
visual inspection--it is behind the timing belt cover--and was begining to
suspect it as the culprit, but just put off checking it out a little too
long. I guess after a quarter century of working on car cooling systems, I
just don't even want to think about them any more....I prefer working on
computers now...which is not much different from working on car cooling
systems, in some respects, nowdays....) In any event, we needed a new
water pump, and a new wp housing due to the fact that the bearing had worn
to the point that the impeller had worn on the inside of the housing enough
to make it a good judgement call to replace it, timing belt (antifreeze had
soaked it and caused it to fail) and it was time for the 120,000 mile
check-up, so it was a good bit of money later before we drove into the
sunset. I don't regret it though, it's a very good car and it's worth
keeping in good shape and dependable so that it doesn't strand my wife
somewhere. I suggest that you check out the timing belt and see if it has
parted. You can take a couple of bolts out of the cover and see. You may
have to turn over the engine and see if the cam gear turns--if it does,
the belt is intact, if it doesn't, it's not. The 4-cylinder is a
non-interference engine (the valves don't stick far enough down when fully
open to hit the pistons at any time--yes, many people make engines that DO
have the valves hanging there to be hit--Honda and Nissan do it
frequently, IIRC--so you have very little chance of damaging the top end
of your engine, but I'm not there, so I can't say for sure--YMMV), I don't
know about the 6-cylinder.

Overall, if you are not a mechanic, I would humbly suggest you ask around
and find a mechanic who is recommended by people you know as being a good,
knowledgeable, HONEST, mechanic. Notice that I did not include low rates as
a criteria. In 25 years of working in the automotive business, the one
consistent thing I found was that the people who got screwed the most were
the ones who insisted on paying either the least or the most. The ones who
tried to scrape by on the cheapest parts/labor might get by for a while
(sometimes a pretty good while), but almost without exception in the long
run they wound up paying more. It just catches up with you. The ones who
sought out the most expensive people to work on their cars, well they got
that. In a few cases, they got good service. In every case they paid a
lot. What I am saying is, paying a knowledgeable professional (be it a
mechanic, doctor, lawyer, plumber, or whatever) a reasonable fee to
perform a quality service that will hold up, is a good choice compared to
doing something, uhh, "half-cheeked", if you get my drift, and then having
to pay not only for the original repair, but also to fix what you have done
to the car. Or your plumbing, or body, or trying to fix something in court,
etc.

Not disparaging your mechanical skill--you may be a whiz with a wrench. If
so, ignore the above. However, if you were, I doubt you would be asking the
kind of question you did where you did. If you feel comfortable working on
your car, and want to take the risk, feel free. Get a good manual, and
good tools, and I wish you luck. There are many people who do it
successfully. But do be aware that someone familiar with cars in general,
and your car in particular (EVERY model has its own quirks) can save you a
lot of grief/money in the long run. Just my $0.02 Good luck, however you
go.

PS--one of the reasons I work on computers now rather than cars is that
the manufacturers have been making the cars more and more difficult to
diagnose/work on for decades--not just wrench turning, but keeping the
information needed away from the independent mechanics--and I just got fed
up with it. If I have to trouble shoot a computer system in the dark, as
far as information from the manufacturer goes, I would rather look on the
web for stuff about Micro$oft than worry about the airbag blowing up in my
face while trying to get the A/C to work. <g>

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