connected battery wrong

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Old 28 Dec 2004, 08:13 pm   #1 (permalink)
nad441
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Default connected battery wrong

ok I know I messed up and it will probrably going to cost me alot of money
but my 96 camry wouldn't start so I took the battery into the house to
charge it. when I reconected it (it was dark ) and I connected the pos. to
the neg. and the neg to the pos. after realising my boo boo I reconected it
the right way but had no power in the car . I recharged the battery and
checked the fuses. there were 3 fuses burnt, one 100amp one 20 anp and one
30 amp. I changed them and tried to start the car but it would turn over no
prob. but woouldn't start. I rechecked the fuses and the 30 amp one was
burnt again this one is for the (multiport fuel injection
system/sequential multiport fuel injection system,starting system
)everytime I try to put another fuse in it blows right away. A guy told me
I might have fried my alternator so he said this might be causing the short
so he said to disconect all wires going to the alternator and then try to
put the fuse back in. I tried this and still the fuse burnt. can anybody
give me anymore advice (besides don't conect the battery that way again)on
what I can try to troubleshoot before I take it to the shop and they soke
me dry.



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Old 29 Dec 2004, 03:05 pm   #2 (permalink)
Jason James
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Default Re: connected battery wrong


"nad441" <morin@personainternet.com> wrote in message
news:ddd315dc8693046767a850ff4860f92d@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> ok I know I messed up and it will probrably going to cost me alot of money
> but my 96 camry wouldn't start so I took the battery into the house to
> charge it. when I reconected it (it was dark ) and I connected the pos. to
> the neg. and the neg to the pos. after realising my boo boo I reconected

it
> the right way but had no power in the car . I recharged the battery and
> checked the fuses. there were 3 fuses burnt, one 100amp one 20 anp and one
> 30 amp. I changed them and tried to start the car but it would turn over

no
> prob. but woouldn't start. I rechecked the fuses and the 30 amp one was
> burnt again this one is for the (multiport fuel injection
> system/sequential multiport fuel injection system,starting system
> )everytime I try to put another fuse in it blows right away. A guy told me
> I might have fried my alternator so he said this might be causing the

short
> so he said to disconect all wires going to the alternator and then try to
> put the fuse back in. I tried this and still the fuse burnt. can anybody
> give me anymore advice (besides don't conect the battery that way again)on
> what I can try to troubleshoot before I take it to the shop and they soke
> me dry.


Any decent design system would put in protection against reverse-polarity
and it maybe the EFI system has what is called "sacrificial diode
protection". This is essentially a crowbar system where high volts or
reverse volts cause these power-diodes to conduct to gound thereby
deliberately blowing the supply fuses to ptotect the expensive EFI/ECU and
peripherals. Once blown, these diodes have to be removed to remove the short
they represent across the battery supply.

You're alternator may well be stuffed as the power-diode packs would have
been blown due to being forward biassed to ground thru the field-winding.
Fuses, unfortunately offer too slow a protection in most cases ie they take
100msecs to blow while it takes less than a msec for solid-state devices to
fry in that event you describe.

You will need to take the car to Toyota or get your hands on some spare
modules from a wrecker and start replacing things,...if you have some
experience with electronics, you can ascertain a lot with a simple
multimeter on Ohms range.
Disconnect the battery- remove the blown fuses,.. and connect the mmeter
from each fuseholder (test both terminals) to ground and look for shorts
(less than 200 ohms to ground) If the short is still there, replacing the
fuse will achieve nothing more than another blown fuse when you reconnect
the battery . You need to identify which part of the car's system is in
question and replace it.

Sorry it sounds like a nightmare situation...
Jason


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Old 30 Dec 2004, 08:38 pm   #3 (permalink)
rogerblake
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Default Re: connected battery wrong


"Jason James" <vellicet@bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:33gkdkF402r6mU1@individual.net...
>
> "nad441" <morin@personainternet.com> wrote in message
> news:ddd315dc8693046767a850ff4860f92d@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> > ok I know I messed up and it will probrably going to cost me alot of

money
> > but my 96 camry wouldn't start so I took the battery into the house to
> > charge it. when I reconected it (it was dark ) and I connected the pos.

to
> > the neg. and the neg to the pos. after realising my boo boo I reconected

> it
> > the right way but had no power in the car . I recharged the battery and
> > checked the fuses. there were 3 fuses burnt, one 100amp one 20 anp and

one
> > 30 amp. I changed them and tried to start the car but it would turn over

> no
> > prob. but woouldn't start. I rechecked the fuses and the 30 amp one was
> > burnt again this one is for the (multiport fuel injection
> > system/sequential multiport fuel injection system,starting system
> > )everytime I try to put another fuse in it blows right away. A guy told

me
> > I might have fried my alternator so he said this might be causing the

> short
> > so he said to disconect all wires going to the alternator and then try

to
> > put the fuse back in. I tried this and still the fuse burnt. can anybody
> > give me anymore advice (besides don't conect the battery that way

again)on
> > what I can try to troubleshoot before I take it to the shop and they

soke
> > me dry.

>
> Any decent design system would put in protection against reverse-polarity
> and it maybe the EFI system has what is called "sacrificial diode
> protection". This is essentially a crowbar system where high volts or
> reverse volts cause these power-diodes to conduct to gound thereby
> deliberately blowing the supply fuses to ptotect the expensive EFI/ECU and
> peripherals. Once blown, these diodes have to be removed to remove the

short
> they represent across the battery supply.
>
> You're alternator may well be stuffed as the power-diode packs would have
> been blown due to being forward biassed to ground thru the field-winding.
> Fuses, unfortunately offer too slow a protection in most cases ie they

take
> 100msecs to blow while it takes less than a msec for solid-state devices

to
> fry in that event you describe.
>
> You will need to take the car to Toyota or get your hands on some spare
> modules from a wrecker and start replacing things,...if you have some
> experience with electronics, you can ascertain a lot with a simple
> multimeter on Ohms range.
> Disconnect the battery- remove the blown fuses,.. and connect the mmeter
> from each fuseholder (test both terminals) to ground and look for shorts
> (less than 200 ohms to ground) If the short is still there, replacing the
> fuse will achieve nothing more than another blown fuse when you reconnect
> the battery . You need to identify which part of the car's system is in
> question and replace it.
>
> Sorry it sounds like a nightmare situation...
> Jason
>

I would agree with the conclusion of the above poster but I think you have
damaged the computer.


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Old 05 Jan 2005, 05:17 am   #4 (permalink)
nad441
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Default Re: connected battery wrong

well just got the car back from the garage and it turns out the only thing
i fried was my remote car starter(thank god) thanks to all those who
posted with help.

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Old 05 Jan 2005, 01:53 pm   #5 (permalink)
Jason James
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Default Re: connected battery wrong


"nad441" <morin@personainternet.com> wrote in message
news:35a7de86fe9d4e18002412f6be6d2fe0@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> well just got the car back from the garage and it turns out the only thing
> i fried was my remote car starter(thank god) thanks to all those who
> posted with help.



Excellent,..great news!. The expensive units must have simple diode
isolation in the event of reverse-polarity,...good to know.

Jason


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