Just died....

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Old 18 Jan 2005, 12:17 am   #1 (permalink)
Sherwin
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Default Just died....

I was driving my camry from Nanaimo about 30 miles away where I"m at. It
died about 15 minutes away from my destination. I tried starting it and it
didn't start up again. I back track it from the spark plugs no spark then
to the coil no sparks. I unplug the battery for 5 minutes or 6 to see if
will reset the ECU (that's what I have heard). It didn't do anything. It
turn over, it makes sounds like it was going to go but it just won't fire
up? What would it be, HELP PLS.

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Old 18 Jan 2005, 03:56 am   #2 (permalink)
m Ransley
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Default Re: Just died....

Timing belt if more than 60000? , bad wire or coil if old.

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Old 19 Jan 2005, 02:20 am   #3 (permalink)
Sherwin
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Default Re: Just died....

I tried replacing the coil still there was no sparks. So, I went return.
There is this silver box on the bottom of the coil I'm not sure what's
wrong with it. There is a couple of wire connected to it to the coil. I
don't think it's getting any power. That hooks up to ECU and the to the
battery. I'm still not sure..

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Old 19 Jan 2005, 11:51 am   #4 (permalink)
Jason James
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Default Re: Just died....


"Sherwin" <sbalalio@islandinkjet.com> wrote in message
news:06651f5e82934b6aaef4335faef6baf9@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> I tried replacing the coil still there was no sparks. So, I went return.
> There is this silver box on the bottom of the coil I'm not sure what's
> wrong with it. There is a couple of wire connected to it to the coil. I
> don't think it's getting any power. That hooks up to ECU and the to the
> battery. I'm still not sure..


The sensors live in there. You will not find 12 volts on them. The best way
to suss the dissy- out is to remove a spark-plug, insert a screwdriver where
the plug sits inside the boot,..a nd hold the s/driver blade 1/4-1/2 inch
from the engine cam-cover while a helper cranks the engiine. There should be
a strong blue spark.


Jason


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Old 20 Jan 2005, 02:18 pm   #5 (permalink)
Jason James
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Default Re: Just died....


"Sherwin" <sbalalio@islandinkjet.com> wrote in message
news:7ac9c1d7255744fd86bf816383ce2cf7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> I did that already. That's where I have started Jason and work my way back
> to the distributor to the coil still no sparks. If that is the sensor
> the coil is sitting on I think it would be the ECM then; correct me if I'm
> wrong.'Cause from there the next would be the ECM (computer, Electronic
> Counter Measure.Right?


The ignition coil is part of the distributor. To carry out any fault
diagnosis you will need a workshop manual and an ohm meter which covers
quite a wide scale. A digital multometer for about $15 or so should be OK.

The distributor has 2 sets of pickups which feed small voltage impulses to
the igniter which is mounted on the firewall. The igniter's job is to
amplify the small signal pulses synchronised with each cylinder's power
stroke commencement (or there abouts. The actual ignition timing is 10
degrees BTDC) to full 12v peak coil power-switching pulses. So there is a
loom between the dissy and the igniter which contain wiring to and from the
igniter. The coil is in plain site once the dissy cap is off and the cover
removed.

There is a connector for the pickup coils,..but you may have to remove the
ignition coil to measure its continuity ie
Coil primary and secondry : 0.3 to 0.6 ohm and 9k to 15k ohm. The coil has 3
contacts when viewed as installed. Both Primary and Secondry resistance is
measured with respect to the +ve terminal which is the lower RHS one. The
other Primary contact is the lower LHS,...the Sec (spark output) is at the
top edge.

Pickups : unplug the dissy's rear connector (closest to firewall) There are
4 contacts laid out left to right as G+ G- NE- NE+ Make sure the
connector tab is at the top for correct orientation. Ohm measurements are :
G+ and G- 185 to 265 ohm

NE+ and NE- 370 to 530 ohm

You will need a manual to do these measurements, if you are not experienced
with this type of work.

If the coil and sensors check OK and you have ascertained the wiring from
the dissy to the igniter is OK, then its time to check the igniter which is
located on the RH end of the firewall.It has 5 connector plug and these are
not identified in my manual except by a designation,..but, of the 5,. one
goes to the battery (via the ignition switch) and thus will have 12v on
it,..another goes to the tacho, another to the coil primary, another 2 go to
the ECU.

At a guess,..with the igniter connector off, the first pin (left to right
with the conn-locking tang to the top) is C- , this is probably goes to the
coil-primary,..the second: IG- and the fifth: IGF may go to the ECU,..the
third +B is battery (check with car ON),..the fourth: IGT is to the tacho.

Hope this helps,...Jason


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Old 20 Jan 2005, 03:29 pm   #6 (permalink)
Jason James
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Default Re: Just died....

AMENDMENT: see 3rd para down


"Jason James" <vellicet@bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:35ahrkF4kekl6U1@individual.net...
>
> "Sherwin" <sbalalio@islandinkjet.com> wrote in message
> news:7ac9c1d7255744fd86bf816383ce2cf7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> > I did that already. That's where I have started Jason and work my way

back
> > to the distributor to the coil still no sparks. If that is the sensor
> > the coil is sitting on I think it would be the ECM then; correct me if

I'm
> > wrong.'Cause from there the next would be the ECM (computer, Electronic
> > Counter Measure.Right?

>
> The ignition coil is part of the distributor. To carry out any fault
> diagnosis you will need a workshop manual and an ohm meter which covers
> quite a wide scale. A digital multometer for about $15 or so should be OK.
>
> The distributor has 2 sets of pickups which feed small voltage impulses to
> the igniter which is mounted on the firewall.

--------------------- amendment
This is not quite correct,..the sensor pulses go to the *ECU first* where
they are processed and have their timing adjusted for the particular driving
conditions at the time (engine speed, throttle position, manifold vac
etc),..then they go to the igniter (pin designation IG- and IGF or pins 2
and 5 of the igniter-socket)
----------------------

The igniter's job is to
> amplify the small signal pulses synchronised with each cylinder's power
> stroke commencement (or there abouts. The actual ignition timing is 10
> degrees BTDC) to full 12v peak coil power-switching pulses. So there is a
> loom between the dissy and the igniter which contain wiring to and from

the
> igniter. The coil is in plain site once the dissy cap is off and the cover
> removed.
>
> There is a connector for the pickup coils,..but you may have to remove the
> ignition coil to measure its continuity ie
> Coil primary and secondry : 0.3 to 0.6 ohm and 9k to 15k ohm. The coil has

3
> contacts when viewed as installed. Both Primary and Secondry resistance is
> measured with respect to the +ve terminal which is the lower RHS one. The
> other Primary contact is the lower LHS,...the Sec (spark output) is at the
> top edge.
>
> Pickups : unplug the dissy's rear connector (closest to firewall) There

are
> 4 contacts laid out left to right as G+ G- NE- NE+ Make sure the
> connector tab is at the top for correct orientation. Ohm measurements are

:
> G+ and G- 185 to 265 ohm
>
> NE+ and NE- 370 to 530 ohm
>
> You will need a manual to do these measurements, if you are not

experienced
> with this type of work.
>
> If the coil and sensors check OK and you have ascertained the wiring from
> the dissy to the igniter is OK, then its time to check the igniter which

is
> located on the RH end of the firewall.It has 5 connector plug and these

are
> not identified in my manual except by a designation,..but, of the 5,. one
> goes to the battery (via the ignition switch) and thus will have 12v on
> it,..another goes to the tacho, another to the coil primary, another 2 go

to
> the ECU.
>
> At a guess,..with the igniter connector off, the first pin (left to right
> with the conn-locking tang to the top) is C- , this is probably goes to

the
> coil-primary,..the second: IG- and the fifth: IGF may go to the ECU,..the
> third +B is battery (check with car ON),..the fourth: IGT is to the tacho.
>
> Hope this helps,...Jason
>
>



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Old 26 Jan 2005, 01:51 am   #7 (permalink)
Sherwin
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Default Re: Just died....

I check it out and it wasn't the igniter what I had found was the EFI fuse.
I went to the auto wrecker and had bought the igniter thinking that was the
problem and I read the repair manual for and notice to ceck the main board
fuse anf there it was. I unstalled the igniter I had bought and I will be
going to return it. Thanks 4 the tips


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