P0135 code. Now what?

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Old 08 Feb 2005, 09:40 am   #1 (permalink)
Wayner
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Default P0135 code. Now what?

Hi.
Recently borrowed a code reader to find out why my MIL was on. Turns out
the generic code P0135 refers to "O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction".
It will be a while until I get to the fix. In the meanwhile, is it safe to
leave this fault alone for a while? Will it screw up the cat converter or
otherwise wreck the engine performance? Otherwise, the Camry ('96) seems to
run fine.
When I do look at it, is there a good troubleshooting process to follow to
confirm a faulty sensor (and not the ECU)?
Wayne


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Old 08 Feb 2005, 10:06 am   #2 (permalink)
hachiroku
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Default Re: P0135 code. Now what?



--
Hachi
"Wayner" <wgt@telus.net> wrote in message
news:r35Od.40851$gA4.32653@edtnps89...
> Hi.
> Recently borrowed a code reader to find out why my MIL was on. Turns out
> the generic code P0135 refers to "O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction".
> It will be a while until I get to the fix. In the meanwhile, is it safe

to
> leave this fault alone for a while? Will it screw up the cat converter or
> otherwise wreck the engine performance? Otherwise, the Camry ('96) seems

to
> run fine.
> When I do look at it, is there a good troubleshooting process to follow to
> confirm a faulty sensor (and not the ECU)?
> Wayne
>
>


Chances of it being the ECU are fairly slim. If you look at your O2 Sensor,
you will see a 4-wire connector. On the replacement sensors, there are two
white wires.These are for the heater. Sensors are pre-heated now so they
work without having to warm up. This is what the code is telling you.
Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to tell you, upstream or downstream?
I have been worng, oh, once or twice, but I would get under the car and look
for the downstream sensor, and look for cut or dangling wires. Actually, you
could start under the hood...it's a lot easier!

As far as troubleshooting? Well, not knowing the colours, it'd be hard to
say, but if I could find out what wires go to the heater, I'd pull the
sensor, hold onto it while i applied 12 volts and see if it got warm.


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Old 08 Feb 2005, 12:24 pm   #3 (permalink)
Wayner
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Default Re: P0135 code. Now what?

Thanks. Actually, the fault code output also pointed to "Bank 1 Sensor 1",
so I would imagine it being something to do with the sensor on the exhaust
on the cyclinder bank near the firewall (v6). If the sensor ends up needing
replacement, can it be repaired and is there a trick to yanking it and with
what size socket? or do I need a special tool to fit around the wires while
pulling it?




"hachiroku" <hachiroku@ae86.gts> wrote in message
news:ss5Od.17178$s16.1963@trndny02...
>
>
> --
> Hachi
> "Wayner" <wgt@telus.net> wrote in message
> news:r35Od.40851$gA4.32653@edtnps89...
>> Hi.
>> Recently borrowed a code reader to find out why my MIL was on. Turns out
>> the generic code P0135 refers to "O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction".
>> It will be a while until I get to the fix. In the meanwhile, is it safe

> to
>> leave this fault alone for a while? Will it screw up the cat converter
>> or
>> otherwise wreck the engine performance? Otherwise, the Camry ('96) seems

> to
>> run fine.
>> When I do look at it, is there a good troubleshooting process to follow
>> to
>> confirm a faulty sensor (and not the ECU)?
>> Wayne
>>
>>

>
> Chances of it being the ECU are fairly slim. If you look at your O2
> Sensor,
> you will see a 4-wire connector. On the replacement sensors, there are two
> white wires.These are for the heater. Sensors are pre-heated now so they
> work without having to warm up. This is what the code is telling you.
> Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to tell you, upstream or downstream?
> I have been worng, oh, once or twice, but I would get under the car and
> look
> for the downstream sensor, and look for cut or dangling wires. Actually,
> you
> could start under the hood...it's a lot easier!
>
> As far as troubleshooting? Well, not knowing the colours, it'd be hard to
> say, but if I could find out what wires go to the heater, I'd pull the
> sensor, hold onto it while i applied 12 volts and see if it got warm.
>
>



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Old 08 Feb 2005, 12:42 pm   #4 (permalink)
Travis Jordan
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Default Re: P0135 code. Now what?

Wayner wrote:
> Thanks. Actually, the fault code output also pointed to "Bank 1
> Sensor 1", so I would imagine it being something to do with the
> sensor on the exhaust on the cyclinder bank near the firewall (v6).


On the V6 B1S1 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) is the rear manifold, B2S1 is the
front, B1S2 is the one after the catalytic converter.


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Old 08 Feb 2005, 12:50 pm   #5 (permalink)
Travis Jordan
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Default Re: P0135 code. Now what?

Wayner wrote:
> If the sensor ends up needing replacement, can it be repaired and is
> there a trick to yanking it and with what size socket? or do I need
> a special tool to fit around the wires while pulling it?


You can try a 7/8" box end wrench - thread the wires through the box
end. You can also get a special socket to remove the sensor which
allows you to tuck any wires up inside the socket. Try your local auto
store.


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Old 08 Feb 2005, 02:11 pm   #6 (permalink)
Wayner
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Default Re: P0135 code. Now what?

Thanks, Travis. With the cost of the sensors so high (at least here in
Canada) can they be repaired? What's the best method of determining just
why the part failed? ie, should I be looking further upstream for a
problem, or will the ECU monitor have coded another one along with the P0135
O2 malfunction?


"Travis Jordan" <no.one@no.net> wrote in message
news:MR7Od.1494135$f47.255231@news.easynews.com...
> Wayner wrote:
>> If the sensor ends up needing replacement, can it be repaired and is
>> there a trick to yanking it and with what size socket? or do I need
>> a special tool to fit around the wires while pulling it?

>
> You can try a 7/8" box end wrench - thread the wires through the box
> end. You can also get a special socket to remove the sensor which
> allows you to tuck any wires up inside the socket. Try your local auto
> store.
>
>



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Old 08 Feb 2005, 03:02 pm   #7 (permalink)
Travis Jordan
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Default Re: P0135 code. Now what?

Wayner wrote:
> Thanks, Travis. With the cost of the sensors so high (at least here
> in Canada) can they be repaired? What's the best method of
> determining just why the part failed? ie, should I be looking
> further upstream for a problem, or will the ECU monitor have coded
> another one along with the P0135 O2 malfunction?


They just fail, Wayner. I've seen some last for 20K miles or less, get
replaced and then have the replacement work for the life of the vehicle.
They are not repairable.

Buy the OEM sensor online and save a few bucks.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...96&catalogid=1



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Old 08 Feb 2005, 03:21 pm   #8 (permalink)
Wayner
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Default Re: P0135 code. Now what?

Thanks for that info, Travis. We have local parts suppliers and, being in
Canada, buying from the States is hit and miss so far as prices, s/h,
duties, yada yada are concerned. I noticed that some places (sites) suggest
using universal O2 sensors (NTK and Bosch make em). Are they a good
alternative? Will they fall within specs for the car? I won't mind
splicing out the sockets if it saves a few $$.
Wayne


"Travis Jordan" <no.one@no.net> wrote in message
news:gN9Od.1506728$f47.257054@news.easynews.com...
> Wayner wrote:
>> Thanks, Travis. With the cost of the sensors so high (at least here
>> in Canada) can they be repaired? What's the best method of
>> determining just why the part failed? ie, should I be looking
>> further upstream for a problem, or will the ECU monitor have coded
>> another one along with the P0135 O2 malfunction?

>
> They just fail, Wayner. I've seen some last for 20K miles or less, get
> replaced and then have the replacement work for the life of the vehicle.
> They are not repairable.
>
> Buy the OEM sensor online and save a few bucks.
>
> http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...96&catalogid=1
>
>
>



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Old 08 Feb 2005, 04:20 pm   #9 (permalink)
Travis Jordan
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Default Re: P0135 code. Now what?

Wayner wrote:
> I noticed that some places (sites) suggest using universal O2 sensors

(NTK and Bosch make 'em). Are they a good alternative? Will they fall
within specs for the car? I won't mind splicing out the sockets if it
saves a few $$.

The universal replacement sensors should work fine. Denso and Walker
also make "direct fit" sensors that include the wiring harness and
connector; personally, I'd prefer one of those just for convenience.


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Old 08 Feb 2005, 06:39 pm   #10 (permalink)
Wayner
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Default Re: P0135 code. Now what?

Well well well.. I found a problem while trying to disconnect the harness
for meter testing, Travis. When I turned the 4-wire connection over I
discovered that it had been heat-welded to the manifold! I temporarily
pulled it away and separated it and reset the code (I wonder if floating
these things is normal manufacturing?). I tried to do a 'drive/trip cycle'
in order for the monitor to set but it just keeps flashing (on the reader)
so obviously there is a specific driving event that is being looked for.
I'll drive it for a couple more days and see if it sets, no code is
generated and the MIL remains off.
So now I have to either go to the dealer and buy a complete harne$$ anyway,
or find a wrecker with one ..none around here with one. Drat.
Wayne


"Travis Jordan" <no.one@no.net> wrote in message
news:JWaOd.1514592$f47.258558@news.easynews.com...
> Wayner wrote:
>> I noticed that some places (sites) suggest using universal O2 sensors

> (NTK and Bosch make 'em). Are they a good alternative? Will they fall
> within specs for the car? I won't mind splicing out the sockets if it
> saves a few $$.
>
> The universal replacement sensors should work fine. Denso and Walker
> also make "direct fit" sensors that include the wiring harness and
> connector; personally, I'd prefer one of those just for convenience.
>
>



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