89 Camry - Oil Light

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Old 16 Apr 2005, 06:33 pm   #1 (permalink)
Factor
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Default 89 Camry - Oil Light

My 89 Camry seems to have thrown a connecting rod the other day, I'm going
to look inside to see what exactly is wrong and how bad it is, but I'm
wondering why it failed in the first place (it only has 205k km on it).

It seemed the oil light would stay on for 2 or 3 seconds after I started the
car, then go off and not come on again. I assumed thought that was normal
as the pressure built up (though looking into it the light seems to go off
at 4.3 psi or so). Is the light staying on at all a sign of trouble???

Thanks


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Old 16 Apr 2005, 06:51 pm   #2 (permalink)
Mark A
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Default Re: 89 Camry - Oil Light

"Factor" <factor99@altern.org> wrote in message
news:IK2dnSGJy_osPfzfRVn-2w@golden.net...
> My 89 Camry seems to have thrown a connecting rod the other day, I'm going
> to look inside to see what exactly is wrong and how bad it is, but I'm
> wondering why it failed in the first place (it only has 205k km on it).
>
> It seemed the oil light would stay on for 2 or 3 seconds after I started
> the car, then go off and not come on again. I assumed thought that was
> normal as the pressure built up (though looking into it the light seems to
> go off at 4.3 psi or so). Is the light staying on at all a sign of
> trouble???
>
> Thanks

Unless there was always that amount of delay, then it is a problem. Is your
oil level OK? Is there any kind or water or radiator coolant in the oil?


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Old 17 Apr 2005, 07:26 am   #3 (permalink)
m Ransley
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Default Re: 89 Camry - Oil Light

Your oil light stays on, you think you threw a rod. Do you really have
to ask.

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Old 17 Apr 2005, 09:51 am   #4 (permalink)
Jason James
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Default Re: 89 Camry - Oil Light


"Factor" <factor99@altern.org> wrote in message
news:IK2dnSGJy_osPfzfRVn-2w@golden.net...
> My 89 Camry seems to have thrown a connecting rod the other day, I'm going
> to look inside to see what exactly is wrong and how bad it is, but I'm
> wondering why it failed in the first place (it only has 205k km on it).
>
> It seemed the oil light would stay on for 2 or 3 seconds after I started

the
> car, then go off and not come on again. I assumed thought that was normal
> as the pressure built up (though looking into it the light seems to go off
> at 4.3 psi or so). Is the light staying on at all a sign of trouble???
>
> Thanks



Connecting rod failure is one of the most common 'catastrophic' sources of
engine failure. It can happen without warning eg a rod-cap bolt shears
off,..or more commonly due to extreme wear and subsequent failure in
lubrication of the said rod-bearing.

High mileage Taxis, depending on maintenance, can develop noisey
rod-bearings which you can hear on a feathered throttle (inbetween power on
and off) at about 50 mph or 80kph. Eventually the wide running clearances
causes the oil film to breakdown under load, allowing metal on metal
contact,..then a viscous circle of everincreasing oil-clearances followed by
an overheated bearing followed by failure.

Dirty oil can cause accelerated wear which produces the same result. Your
oil light will warn you all is not well by blinking on at low idle revs once
the engine has heated up. At cold, the thicker oil and closer running
clearances keeps the oil-pressure up,..so your slow light is not really
relevant unless there is a problem with airleaks causing sluggish pump
performance.

Jason



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Old 17 Apr 2005, 06:09 pm   #5 (permalink)
Factor
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Default Re: 89 Camry - Oil Light

Thanks Jason.

It turns out the rods are ok. I took the oilpan off today and it looks
fine. Turning the engine with a wrench doesn't show any problems either.
Nothing in the bottom end seems loose when I push on it, except for the
lateral on the big ends, which seems to be within spec.

That was my first experience with an awful sound from an engine. I thought
it was a rod because it was a an extremely loud clanking that I'm sure could
be heard 2 blocks away (literally like something was whacking the engine
block really hard). Also, the oil light was flashing on a bit when it was
just a small clank. The engine runs, but makes that sound at idle, and gets
faster with the engine. The oil level was fine.

Is it possible this is a bearing problem that I can't detect easily with the
pan off? I took the valve cover off when the problem first occurred,
everything looked fine, though I didn't turn the engine. The sound was so
loud that it seemed it would be coming from a bigger part under great force.

Thanks for the help.


"Jason James" <associate@dodo.comzapspam.au> wrote in message
news:426277dd@news.comindico.com.au...
>
> "Factor" <factor99@altern.org> wrote in message
> news:IK2dnSGJy_osPfzfRVn-2w@golden.net...
>> My 89 Camry seems to have thrown a connecting rod the other day, I'm
>> going
>> to look inside to see what exactly is wrong and how bad it is, but I'm
>> wondering why it failed in the first place (it only has 205k km on it).
>>
>> It seemed the oil light would stay on for 2 or 3 seconds after I started

> the
>> car, then go off and not come on again. I assumed thought that was
>> normal
>> as the pressure built up (though looking into it the light seems to go
>> off
>> at 4.3 psi or so). Is the light staying on at all a sign of trouble???
>>
>> Thanks

>
>
> Connecting rod failure is one of the most common 'catastrophic' sources of
> engine failure. It can happen without warning eg a rod-cap bolt shears
> off,..or more commonly due to extreme wear and subsequent failure in
> lubrication of the said rod-bearing.
>
> High mileage Taxis, depending on maintenance, can develop noisey
> rod-bearings which you can hear on a feathered throttle (inbetween power
> on
> and off) at about 50 mph or 80kph. Eventually the wide running clearances
> causes the oil film to breakdown under load, allowing metal on metal
> contact,..then a viscous circle of everincreasing oil-clearances followed
> by
> an overheated bearing followed by failure.
>
> Dirty oil can cause accelerated wear which produces the same result. Your
> oil light will warn you all is not well by blinking on at low idle revs
> once
> the engine has heated up. At cold, the thicker oil and closer running
> clearances keeps the oil-pressure up,..so your slow light is not really
> relevant unless there is a problem with airleaks causing sluggish pump
> performance.
>
> Jason
>
>
>



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Old 18 Apr 2005, 10:37 am   #6 (permalink)
Jason James
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Default Re: 89 Camry - Oil Light


"Factor" <factor99@altern.org> wrote in message
news:geGdnReKWa8rcf_fRVn-1A@golden.net...
> Thanks Jason.
>
> It turns out the rods are ok. I took the oilpan off today and it looks
> fine. Turning the engine with a wrench doesn't show any problems either.
> Nothing in the bottom end seems loose when I push on it, except for the
> lateral on the big ends, which seems to be within spec.
>
> That was my first experience with an awful sound from an engine. I thought
> it was a rod because it was a an extremely loud clanking that I'm sure

could
> be heard 2 blocks away (literally like something was whacking the engine
> block really hard). Also, the oil light was flashing on a bit when it was
> just a small clank. The engine runs, but makes that sound at idle, and

gets
> faster with the engine. The oil level was fine.
>
> Is it possible this is a bearing problem that I can't detect easily with

the
> pan off? I took the valve cover off when the problem first occurred,
> everything looked fine, though I didn't turn the engine. The sound was so
> loud that it seemed it would be coming from a bigger part under great

force.
>
> Thanks for the help.


Possibilities:
For an engine part or accessory to make such a loud noise, means there will
be excessive movement or fouling of moving parts (less common) to cause it.

-I'd be removing each plug-lead at a time, to see if the noise dramatically
lessens, hence pointing to a particular cylinder: meaning a broken piston
(piece of the skirt broken off causing piston noise as its lateral support
is decreased), or stuffed rod-bearing. A loose gudgeon or wrist-pin which is
floating against the bore is on the cards,..but fuming or blow-by increases
rapidly also with bore damage. I think you said its automatic, so crank
endfloat (which when excessive isnt that loud anyway) wouldn't seem to be
it.

- a loose crankshaft pulley can be fairly noisey as it chatters against its
key ( a small piece of metal which locates the pulley correctly on the crank
taper).

-The cam-belt tensioner and idler pulleys, if loose or the tensioner spring
has broken. Water-pumps can get quite noisey,...but a clanking noise? While
you have the cover off,..check the oil-pump pulley for excessive movement.

- check the main cam (belt-driven one) hasn't got bad endfloat by pushing
and pulling its belt-sprocket. You mentioned the cam lobes and followers
looked OK,..not broken

-a loose TConvertor, Broken vanes in the torque-convertor, or something
gone pearshaped in the transmission.

Use a long screwdriver as a stethoscope to check the following items. The
idea is to carefully place the driver blade against various engine housings
while you rest your ear on the handle end. Works well,..but obviously care
is needed so it doesnt slip off.

- the AC compressor is a prime candidate for loud noises if it has failed.
The power-steering pump may be it tho I haven't heard one go that noisey.

- check alternator with a stethoscope

If all these seem Ok,..there remains the balance shafts (oil-pan off for
this one). If they have chewed a bearing out,..its possible low-oil-pressure
and noise will result. Check for excessive movement.



Jason


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Old 18 Apr 2005, 04:26 pm   #7 (permalink)
m Ransley
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Default Re: 89 Camry - Oil Light

A broomstick can make effective stethescope move it around till the
sound is loudest and no bending over to locate sounds.

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Old 18 Apr 2005, 06:54 pm   #8 (permalink)
Jason James
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Default Re: 89 Camry - Oil Light


"m Ransley" <ransley@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:19025-4264261A-474@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net...
> A broomstick can make effective stethescope move it around till the
> sound is loudest and no bending over to locate sounds.


Too true,...a screwdriver driven thru one's head, is not a good look.

Jason


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Old 19 Apr 2005, 08:21 am   #9 (permalink)
Ken Peterson
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Default Re: 89 Camry - Oil Light

On Sun, 17 Apr 2005 19:09:50 -0400, "Factor" <factor99@altern.org>
wrote:

Make sure you use stock Toyota filters. The anti-drainback valve of
many aftermarket filters are not up to the job and they will drain
out, requiring a refill on startup. I saw this on my '89 4-banger
when I had it. Stock Toyota filters virtually eliminated any startup
rattle from lack of oil pressure.

My '89 also once did this noise after sitting for a week without being
run. Luckily it went away, and I never did figure out what it was,
except some sort of oil delivery problem, even though the light was
not on. CLACK CLACK, etc...


>Thanks Jason.
>
>It turns out the rods are ok. I took the oilpan off today and it looks
>fine. Turning the engine with a wrench doesn't show any problems either.
>Nothing in the bottom end seems loose when I push on it, except for the
>lateral on the big ends, which seems to be within spec.
>
>That was my first experience with an awful sound from an engine. I thought
>it was a rod because it was a an extremely loud clanking that I'm sure could
>be heard 2 blocks away (literally like something was whacking the engine
>block really hard). Also, the oil light was flashing on a bit when it was
>just a small clank. The engine runs, but makes that sound at idle, and gets
>faster with the engine. The oil level was fine.
>
>Is it possible this is a bearing problem that I can't detect easily with the
>pan off? I took the valve cover off when the problem first occurred,
>everything looked fine, though I didn't turn the engine. The sound was so
>loud that it seemed it would be coming from a bigger part under great force.
>
>Thanks for the help.
>
>
>"Jason James" <associate@dodo.comzapspam.au> wrote in message
>news:426277dd@news.comindico.com.au...
>>
>> "Factor" <factor99@altern.org> wrote in message
>> news:IK2dnSGJy_osPfzfRVn-2w@golden.net...
>>> My 89 Camry seems to have thrown a connecting rod the other day, I'm
>>> going
>>> to look inside to see what exactly is wrong and how bad it is, but I'm
>>> wondering why it failed in the first place (it only has 205k km on it).
>>>
>>> It seemed the oil light would stay on for 2 or 3 seconds after I started

>> the
>>> car, then go off and not come on again. I assumed thought that was
>>> normal
>>> as the pressure built up (though looking into it the light seems to go
>>> off
>>> at 4.3 psi or so). Is the light staying on at all a sign of trouble???
>>>
>>> Thanks

>>
>>
>> Connecting rod failure is one of the most common 'catastrophic' sources of
>> engine failure. It can happen without warning eg a rod-cap bolt shears
>> off,..or more commonly due to extreme wear and subsequent failure in
>> lubrication of the said rod-bearing.
>>
>> High mileage Taxis, depending on maintenance, can develop noisey
>> rod-bearings which you can hear on a feathered throttle (inbetween power
>> on
>> and off) at about 50 mph or 80kph. Eventually the wide running clearances
>> causes the oil film to breakdown under load, allowing metal on metal
>> contact,..then a viscous circle of everincreasing oil-clearances followed
>> by
>> an overheated bearing followed by failure.
>>
>> Dirty oil can cause accelerated wear which produces the same result. Your
>> oil light will warn you all is not well by blinking on at low idle revs
>> once
>> the engine has heated up. At cold, the thicker oil and closer running
>> clearances keeps the oil-pressure up,..so your slow light is not really
>> relevant unless there is a problem with airleaks causing sluggish pump
>> performance.
>>
>> Jason
>>
>>
>>

>


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Old 19 Apr 2005, 09:51 am   #10 (permalink)
Philip
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Default Re: 89 Camry - Oil Light

Or, you could just hang your car by one end or the other so the filter
threaded end faced upward!

Ken Peterson wrote:
> On Sun, 17 Apr 2005 19:09:50 -0400, "Factor" <factor99@altern.org>
> wrote:
>
> Make sure you use stock Toyota filters. The anti-drainback valve of
> many aftermarket filters are not up to the job and they will drain
> out, requiring a refill on startup. I saw this on my '89 4-banger
> when I had it. Stock Toyota filters virtually eliminated any startup
> rattle from lack of oil pressure.
>
> My '89 also once did this noise after sitting for a week without being
> run. Luckily it went away, and I never did figure out what it was,
> except some sort of oil delivery problem, even though the light was
> not on. CLACK CLACK, etc...
>
>
>> Thanks Jason.
>>
>> It turns out the rods are ok. I took the oilpan off today and it
>> looks fine. Turning the engine with a wrench doesn't show any
>> problems either. Nothing in the bottom end seems loose when I push
>> on it, except for the lateral on the big ends, which seems to be
>> within spec.
>>
>> That was my first experience with an awful sound from an engine. I
>> thought it was a rod because it was a an extremely loud clanking
>> that I'm sure could be heard 2 blocks away (literally like something
>> was whacking the engine block really hard). Also, the oil light was
>> flashing on a bit when it was just a small clank. The engine runs,
>> but makes that sound at idle, and gets faster with the engine. The
>> oil level was fine.
>>
>> Is it possible this is a bearing problem that I can't detect easily
>> with the pan off? I took the valve cover off when the problem first
>> occurred, everything looked fine, though I didn't turn the engine.
>> The sound was so loud that it seemed it would be coming from a
>> bigger part under great force.
>>
>> Thanks for the help.
>>
>>
>> "Jason James" <associate@dodo.comzapspam.au> wrote in message
>> news:426277dd@news.comindico.com.au...
>>>
>>> "Factor" <factor99@altern.org> wrote in message
>>> news:IK2dnSGJy_osPfzfRVn-2w@golden.net...
>>>> My 89 Camry seems to have thrown a connecting rod the other day,
>>>> I'm going
>>>> to look inside to see what exactly is wrong and how bad it is, but
>>>> I'm wondering why it failed in the first place (it only has 205k
>>>> km on it).
>>>>
>>>> It seemed the oil light would stay on for 2 or 3 seconds after I
>>>> started the car, then go off and not come on again. I assumed
>>>> thought that was normal
>>>> as the pressure built up (though looking into it the light seems
>>>> to go off
>>>> at 4.3 psi or so). Is the light staying on at all a sign of
>>>> trouble???
>>>>
>>>> Thanks
>>>
>>>
>>> Connecting rod failure is one of the most common 'catastrophic'
>>> sources of engine failure. It can happen without warning eg a
>>> rod-cap bolt shears off,..or more commonly due to extreme wear and
>>> subsequent failure in lubrication of the said rod-bearing.
>>>
>>> High mileage Taxis, depending on maintenance, can develop noisey
>>> rod-bearings which you can hear on a feathered throttle (inbetween
>>> power on
>>> and off) at about 50 mph or 80kph. Eventually the wide running
>>> clearances causes the oil film to breakdown under load, allowing
>>> metal on metal contact,..then a viscous circle of everincreasing
>>> oil-clearances followed by
>>> an overheated bearing followed by failure.
>>>
>>> Dirty oil can cause accelerated wear which produces the same
>>> result. Your oil light will warn you all is not well by blinking on
>>> at low idle revs once
>>> the engine has heated up. At cold, the thicker oil and closer
>>> running clearances keeps the oil-pressure up,..so your slow light
>>> is not really relevant unless there is a problem with airleaks
>>> causing sluggish pump performance.
>>>
>>> Jason




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