98 4cyl camry with 150k miles. Brakes issue and regular maintenance questions.

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Old 19 Sep 2005, 04:55 pm   #1 (permalink)
tallassazn@gmail.com
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Default 98 4cyl camry with 150k miles. Brakes issue and regular maintenance questions.

I have a 98 4 cyclinder camry approaching 150k and I was hoping folks
could chime in and make sure I'm covering all my bases regarding Camry
maintenance. At 99-100K, I utilized my extended warranty contact and
did a full tune up and got everything covered under warranty including
timing belts, oxygen sensor, ax seal and trany pand replacement,
replacement the leaking axle seal. I drive about 100 miles a day,
freeway driving, and I do not drive the car hard.

Immediate issues:
1)My brakes are making noise again so I need to get the pads swapped
ASAP. I last did this at Midas for $225.64. My question is do I really
need them to clean and adjust rear dram brake labor for $25 or
resurface front brake rotors for $50 if I just did brakes at 90k? Or is
this an upsell tactic? With Midas having lifetime warranty on
brakepads, I do know I just have to pay for the labor at $80.

2)At 99k, took the car into the dealer and told them it was hard to
start cold. The engine would die and I had to use the gas pedal to keep
the engine running.

This is what the show in the invoice:

895521 Idle Air Control R&R
2272 CTEC
22270-74291 Valve Assy Idle Spee
22215-74400 Gasket
00289-2CC00 Non-Chlorinated Carb

Found ISC Valv P/A ISC Valve

This seemed to fix the issue at the time, but it has arisen once again
at 150K.

Hope that helps. Does anyone know what exactly is outline above and
should this have a warranty of greater than 50K? Is this related in any
way to sparks, plugs, and wires? I do not believe I have ever changed
these things. Do they ever need to be replaced?

3)Coolant/Anti Freeze was changed at 99k. How often should this be
changed and should I do a flush or just refill? Also, if I do oil
changes myself, how difficulat would it be to flush the coolant myself?

4)Transmission was changed at 115k. Is this needed every 30K? Should
this be a drain and refill or a complete flush?

5)Brake Fluid - How often? Flash or drain and refill?

6)Fuel Filter? How often? What does this do for me?

7) Differential Fluid? How often? Is this different from transmission
fluid?

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Old 19 Sep 2005, 05:00 pm   #2 (permalink)
tallassazn@gmail.com
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Default Re: 98 4cyl camry with 150k miles. Brakes issue and regular maintenance questions.

8) Spark Plugs - Never had these changed. What does this provide and
what is the normal schedule for replacement?

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Old 19 Sep 2005, 07:50 pm   #3 (permalink)
hbuck
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Default Re: 98 4cyl camry with 150k miles. Brakes issue and regular mainten

>by tallassazn@gmail.com Sep 19, 2005 at 02:55 PM

>I have a 98 4 cyclinder camry approaching 150k >and I was hoping folks
>could chime in and make sure I'm covering all my >bases regarding Camry
>maintenance. <snip>


This is Toyota's official site.
Go to Toyotaownersonline.com
Click on 'Scheduled Maintenance'

You can download complete 98 Camry Maintenance Schedule in PDF format.
There is Warranty information too.




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Old 19 Sep 2005, 10:23 pm   #4 (permalink)
Rob
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Default Re: 98 4cyl camry with 150k miles. Brakes issue and regular maintenance questions.

1. Your using midas pads, theres your noisemakers...
2. Plugs should be changed each 60,000 miles. No clue on your cold
start problem. Ask dealer.
3. Coolant should be changed each 30,000 miles.
4. Trans fluid should be changed each 30,000 miles.
5. Purge air while removing old brake fluid during brake jobs.
6. I think 90,000, keeps gunk out of the fuel injectors very important.
7. Diff fluid I do when the trans is done.

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Old 20 Sep 2005, 10:57 am   #5 (permalink)
Daniel
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Default Re: 98 4cyl camry with 150k miles. Brakes issue and regular maintenance questions.

Yikes.
You've asked enough questions for several postings.
Here's my opinion.
If you service and maintain the car properly, it should last 300,000
miles or more.
I have a 1977 Toyota truck that still runs great, and the Camry with
136,000 miles is mechanically excellent.
Plus, I enjoy keeping up on the mechanical aspects because the car is
so well designed and engineered down to the tiniest aspect.
First, I generally do not trust mechanics.
See:
http://tinyurl.com/ap388
So my first advice, would be run from Midas.
Try to use only genuine Toyota parts. (my opinion)
Why? Because they're designed for your vehicle. They fit and operate
correctly, and if you start substituting aftermarket parts it could be
some time before the damage becomes apparent. For example, if you use a
different type of coolant, and it affects the radiator and cooling
jacket passages, or you don't use distilled water, it will be some time
before you notice any difference.
Same with brake pads. Aftermarket pads often squeal. Toyota has gone
through numerous formulations seeking the best blend (compromise)
between rotor life, quiet operation, long life and effectiveness.
To eliminate the brake noise, try switching to genuine Toyota brake
pads.
Cold start problem:
Loosen the single 10mm bolt at the hose clamp and remove the large
black air intake hose at the throttle body. With the engine idling
rough, cold, spray a small amount of TriFlow (from bike shop or
hardware store) into the rectangular hole at the bottom of the TB (IAC
air intake) (for more information search "IAC" on this group). If the
idle air control valve has been replaced, it is probably just sticking
slightly. After I replaced mine, the problem resurfaced after a while
and this seems to have completely cured it.
Platinum plugs are scheduled to change at 60,000 miles. It may be
overkill but I also change the plug wires, cap, rotor and "packing"
(cover gasket), as inexpensive insurance because my wires were shorting
out slightly inside the spark plug tube.
Coolant. Use only Toyota red and distilled water. If you look with a
shop light or flashlight you can see the drain valve at the bottom of
the radiator from above. I use a plastic tub from a home improvement
store for mixing concrete to catch the drained coolant. Just let it all
drain out and then re fill. I tried removing the drain plug on the
block and only a tiny amount extra came out, so I'm not doing that
again. If you drain regularly, the fluid will stay clean and no
flushing is required.
IMHO changing transmission fluid at 115k is waiting too long. Yes, it
should be changed at 30k. Drain and refill should suffice. But you'll
need to do this several times because you only get about half this way.
If you buy the 10mm Allen head socket (hex wrench) and some aluminum
gaskets, and drain the transmission with each oil change for the next
three or four times, that should clean it up. If you want to keep your
transmission alive, keep the fluid clean. An extra step would be
removing the pan, cleaning the inside including the magnets and
replacing the gasket but that is optional - Toyota does not list this
service beyond drain and refill. If you remove the pan, use the correct
torque when reinstalling the bolts. I found two of mine stripped by a
prior mechanic. (you're talking inch pounds here, not foot pounds -
they need to be firmly snugged down with repetitive passes) Tip: if you
change your own fluid, drain it hot, then let it stand over night.
(make sure no one else tries to drive the car!) That way you'll get an
extra quart to drain out. Here's another tip. If you get the oil with
graduated markings on the side, and using a funnel, carefully pour the
old fluid into those, you can measure the amount you need to add back.
Especially for the first time though, add in the last amount slowly
after having driven the car at least ten miles to fully bring the fluid
to operating temperature before the final level check. Here's another
tip. If you use a plastic drain pan, you don't have to worry about
holding the hot drain plug. Just let it fall into the pan, and the next
morning use an inexpensive telescoping magnet to retrieve it.
Brake fluid should be flushed every two years. I change mine when it no
longer appears amber in color.
I bought the brake bleeder kit here:
http://www.livermoreperformance.com/brake_tools.html
because they're racers who bleed the brakes after every race, but you
can also search the web and buy from the manufacturer.
Fuel filter according to Toyota is "lifetime" although to the best of
my knowledge they don't specify maintenance schedules for parts
anticipated to last over 100,000 miles.
Doesn't do much for you apart from adding some peace of mind.
I did change it at 120,000 miles. I recommend using a "crow foot" flare
nut wrench (17mm I think) and Kroil penetrating lubricant on the lower
fitting which can be very tight. With this procedure mine came off very
easily.
Check your car to see if you have a separate differential fill plug. If
so, then the differential fluid is separate. The Haynes repair manual
has a picture.
I use Mobil 1 fully synthetic ATF. The differential and transmission
both use the same Dexron type fluid. I'm not sure about how often.
Except for the first time when it came out brown in color instead of
red, every subsequent time it looks brand new.
I'm guessing every 60,000 miles might be about right.

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Old 20 Sep 2005, 11:05 am   #6 (permalink)
Daniel
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Default Re: 98 4cyl camry with 150k miles. Brakes issue and regular maintenance questions.

follow up - coolant drain:
not only can you see the drain plug from above, you can reach it, and
should be able to loosen it with forefinger and thumb. It is not a
compression seal, but uses an O ring, so it is not necessary to remove
all the plastic air shielding beneath, and crank it down extra tight
with pliers.

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