Oil pan gasket change - RTV or pre-molded gakset?

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Old 05 Nov 2005, 03:11 pm   #1 (permalink)
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Default Oil pan gasket change - RTV or pre-molded gakset?

I just purchased a new oil pan gasket for a '97 4cyl camry. It is the
cork and rubber type. I have done some research and have found the
this model used a FIPG (form in place gasket) or RTV type. My
question is, should I use the cork gasket or use the silicon FIPG? I
would normally just follow the original speicifications, but I do see
that using the cork gasket would be much easier to install with no
mess. Has anybody used an aftermarket cork type gasket with success?
Usually the FIPG gaskets leak if you aren't extra careful during
reassembly and smear the silicon bead.

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Old 06 Nov 2005, 12:59 am   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oil pan gasket change - RTV or pre-molded gakset?

Go with the cork gasket, such as the Fel-Pro OS30468C. FIPG is easier
for automated assembly but cork is more durable in my experience.

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Old 06 Nov 2005, 10:09 am   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oil pan gasket change - RTV or pre-molded gakset?

Cork is original equipment for the automatic transmission pan but as
you've said, FIPG - Toyota's part, is the recommended sealant for the
oil pan.
This is the first I've heard it would be less durable than cork.
The first time I tried installing the pan, I was overly conscious of
the time limit for placement and did smear it. Had to wipe off the
freshly applied material and reapply. In the process of removing the
material from the oil pan I sliced my finger. Being dedicated - my only
concern was whether the bleeding would slow me down. It didn't.
I realize this all sounds like an advertisement for cork preformed, but
I really appreciate the continuing engineering improvements in the
Toyota, and always stay with the factory recommended procedures and
products - so if you use sealant, I would not be substituting for the
Toyota part.
I developed a slight leak in the coolant recovery tank from abrasion
against the mounting bracket. Tried using RTV silicone for repair and
it failed soon afterward. Tried FIPG material and it is still holding
strong with no sign of degradation.
That is also the only material I use at the four points on the valve
cover gasket.
BTW, standard silicone seal with acetic acid curing agent can damage
the oxygen sensor when fumes enter the port open to atmosphere.
My understanding was that FIPG on the oil pan can last apx. 10 yrs.
I made sure the sealing surfaces were antiseptically clean and the
materials were applied in the specified time. Everything looks very
I understand the most critical area is to apply the bead very close to
the rear edge around the area of the rear main seal to avoid leakage in
that area. The FSM has a diagram and I think Haynes also, but the idea
is just to go close to the edge in the back side of the pan.

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