No Heat...water pump?

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Old 26 Nov 2005, 09:47 pm   #1 (permalink)
target
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Default No Heat...water pump?

Hey all-
I have a 93 Camry SE V6. The car overheated when my girl was driving it
due to a blown radiator. Unfortunatly, I'm afraid that maybe she drove
a it bit into the "red zone" and I wanted some advice before I bother
dumpin too much into it. When I filled the block and radiator and ran
it, I was getting no heat in the cab (although the gauge indicated
normal oper. temp) I changed the thermosat with an OE (figuring the old
one was smoked from the overheat) and still no heat.

Is it possible that the water pump is gone too from the overheat as
well ?(although it shows no external signs of leakage) Could somrthing
have blocked the coolant passages from the overheat? BTW, I have only
run the car with no radiator cap on because the radiator is leakin like
a sieve. Could this be connected to the prob? ....TY in advance!!

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Old 26 Nov 2005, 09:57 pm   #2 (permalink)
Stephen H
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Default Re: No Heat...water pump?

No heat = Air pocket in heater core.
Remove the rad cap, fill almost to top and idle until eng is hot. Now goose
the engine from idle to ohhh 2500 rpm or so with the heater on. Keep an eye
on the eng temp, if it gets to high turn the eng off. keep playing with the
car until the heater blows hot.
top off rad and reservoir.



--
Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Undercar Specialist

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troub...l_obd_main.htm
http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/


"target" <target10272000@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1133063265.135917.243530@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com...
> Hey all-
> I have a 93 Camry SE V6. The car overheated when my girl was driving it
> due to a blown radiator. Unfortunatly, I'm afraid that maybe she drove
> a it bit into the "red zone" and I wanted some advice before I bother
> dumpin too much into it. When I filled the block and radiator and ran
> it, I was getting no heat in the cab (although the gauge indicated
> normal oper. temp) I changed the thermosat with an OE (figuring the old
> one was smoked from the overheat) and still no heat.
>
> Is it possible that the water pump is gone too from the overheat as
> well ?(although it shows no external signs of leakage) Could somrthing
> have blocked the coolant passages from the overheat? BTW, I have only
> run the car with no radiator cap on because the radiator is leakin like
> a sieve. Could this be connected to the prob? ....TY in advance!!
>



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Old 26 Nov 2005, 10:15 pm   #3 (permalink)
0_Qed
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Default Re: No Heat...water pump?

target wrote:
>
> Hey all-
> I have a 93 Camry SE V6. The car overheated when my girl was driving it
> due to a blown radiator.


:-0
"LFs" and Sailboats are =expensive= to afford & maintain.


> Unfortunatly, I'm afraid that maybe she drove
> a it bit into the "red zone" and I wanted some advice before I bother
> dumpin too much into it. When I filled the block and radiator and ran
> it, I was getting no heat in the cab (although the gauge indicated
> normal oper. temp) I changed the thermosat with an OE (figuring the old
> one was smoked from the overheat) and still no heat.
>
> Is it possible that the water pump is gone too from the overheat as
> well ?(although it shows no external signs of leakage) Could somrthing
> have blocked the coolant passages from the overheat? BTW, I have only
> run the car with no radiator cap on because the radiator is leakin like
> a sieve. Could this be connected to the prob? ....TY in advance!!


..........

Does the eng_compartment hot_water valve to the in_cabin heater core
work ???
Hose/core get hot ???
Blockage ??? Valve inoperative ???

" No cap " lowers boiling point, 'tf' the water temp too.
Less efficient cooling than at elev temps.

Getting any oil in the coolant water ???
Seeing bubbles in open radiator fill port ???
Blown hd gasket.

Me? ... I'd ;
.. Repair the 'rad' ... re_solder, or re_core ...
.. quick change the engine oil & filter =after= ...
run it a while .
evaluate it,
then decide "further".

Ed.
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Old 26 Nov 2005, 10:26 pm   #4 (permalink)
Pszemol
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Default Re: No Heat...water pump?

"Stephen H" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:z8aif.96254$qk4.16792@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> No heat = Air pocket in heater core.
> Remove the rad cap, fill almost to top and idle until eng is hot. Now goose
> the engine from idle to ohhh 2500 rpm or so with the heater on. Keep an eye
> on the eng temp, if it gets to high turn the eng off. keep playing with the
> car until the heater blows hot.
> top off rad and reservoir.


Will the same method apply to my camry '95 with 4-cylinder engine ?

Why do I need to remove the cap ?
Wouldn't the air bubble travel to the overflow bottle with the cap left on ?
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Old 26 Nov 2005, 11:47 pm   #5 (permalink)
MUADIB
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Default Re: No Heat...water pump?

It is possible that the heater will not "warm" until you have the
coprrect coolant too. if you do not have the proper stuff it will not
heat the way it should. I have experienced this personally or I
wouldn't believe it myself.

get the rad fixeed or replaced and follow the proper refill procedure
and all should work fine.
Remove "YOURPANTIES" to reply

MUADIBŪ

http://www.angelfire.com/retro/sster...IN%20PAGE.html

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What is a test?

The Peacemaking Meeting scheduled for today has been
cancelled due to a conflict.
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Old 27 Nov 2005, 08:19 am   #6 (permalink)
target
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Default Re: No Heat...water pump?


Stephen H wrote:
> No heat = Air pocket in heater core.
> Remove the rad cap, fill almost to top and idle until eng is hot. Now goose
> the engine from idle to ohhh 2500 rpm or so with the heater on. Keep an eye
> on the eng temp, if it gets to high turn the eng off. keep playing with the
> car until the heater blows hot.
> top off rad and reservoir.
>
>
>
> --
> Stephen W. Hansen
> ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
> ASE Undercar Specialist
>
> http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troub...l_obd_main.htm
> http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/
>

Hey Stephen-

I hadn't occured to me that air in the system could be the issue-
thanks! I'm sure that air in the system can't be helping the water
pump flow either.

I wish I was able to do a compression test myself too...could save
myself alot of trouble from square 1, ya know? No coolant in the oil
though (I drained, inspected and refilled) Thats a plus I guess!

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Old 27 Nov 2005, 08:57 am   #7 (permalink)
Daniel
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Default Re: No Heat...water pump?

Pszemol wrote:
"Will the same method apply to my camry '95 with 4-cylinder engine ?
Why do I need to remove the cap ?
Wouldn't the air bubble travel to the overflow bottle with the cap left
on ? "
~~~~~~
With mine, simply filling the radiator slowly and allowing the water
level to rise internally was all that was required. (pour through a
funnel and allow the level to stabilize and the gurgling sounds to
subside before adding a bit more)
Fill to the top of the radiator neck and install the radiator cap.
Run to operating temperature. Let cool. Top up overflow tank.
Never had any problem. Don't know about six cylinder.
I should mention there is a "jiggle valve" in the thermostat whose
position aligns with a mark on the water inlet.
The function of this jiggle valve is to allow air to escape, but then
seal when pressurized.
When I replaced the timing belt and water pump I noticed the prior
mechanic had not oriented the thermostat correctly.

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Old 27 Nov 2005, 08:57 am   #8 (permalink)
Daniel
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Default Re: No Heat...water pump?

Pszemol wrote:
"Will the same method apply to my camry '95 with 4-cylinder engine ?
Why do I need to remove the cap ?
Wouldn't the air bubble travel to the overflow bottle with the cap left
on ? "
~~~~~~
With mine, simply filling the radiator slowly and allowing the water
level to rise internally was all that was required. (pour through a
funnel and allow the level to stabilize and the gurgling sounds to
subside before adding a bit more)
Fill to the top of the radiator neck and install the radiator cap.
Run to operating temperature. Let cool. Top up overflow tank.
Never had any problem. Don't know about six cylinder.
I should mention there is a "jiggle valve" in the thermostat whose
position aligns with a mark on the water inlet.
The function of this jiggle valve is to allow air to escape, but then
seal when pressurized.
When I replaced the timing belt and water pump I noticed the prior
mechanic had not oriented the thermostat correctly.

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Old 27 Nov 2005, 11:23 am   #9 (permalink)
Stephen H
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Default Re: No Heat...water pump?

It works with all cars.
With the cap on it locks the fluid/air combo in place. Removing the cap lets
the fluid flow a bit easier. The key is the accelerator pumping action. It
really helps the fluid move along. Fill the radiator up, run up the
accelerator up and watch what happens, the fluid gets drawn down into the
radiator.


Once heat is coming through the vents, you know the air in that part is out,
and the engine is up to temperature.
Some cars due to the design, it can be difficult to get all the air out.
This method speeds the process along rather than waiting for a heat and cool
cycle.


--
Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Undercar Specialist

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troub...l_obd_main.htm
http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/




"Pszemol" <Pszemol@PolBox.com> wrote in message
news:dmanfh.2ps.1@poczta.onet.pl...
> "Stephen H" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:z8aif.96254$qk4.16792@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>> No heat = Air pocket in heater core.
>> Remove the rad cap, fill almost to top and idle until eng is hot. Now
>> goose the engine from idle to ohhh 2500 rpm or so with the heater on.
>> Keep an eye on the eng temp, if it gets to high turn the eng off. keep
>> playing with the car until the heater blows hot.
>> top off rad and reservoir.

>
> Will the same method apply to my camry '95 with 4-cylinder engine ?
>
> Why do I need to remove the cap ?
> Wouldn't the air bubble travel to the overflow bottle with the cap left on
> ?



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Old 27 Nov 2005, 05:08 pm   #10 (permalink)
m Ransley
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Default Re: No Heat...water pump?

No heat is more likely caused be a stuck or bad water control valve, or
cable problems on the valve on the firewall, a cable goes inside from
the valve and can be moved by hand to be sure its in the correct
position.

Or a clogged heater core.

Check the radiator, but removing the radiator cap should not have been
necessary, filling the radiator should not be necessary as that is what
the expansion tank does, maintain level, that you keep at the proper
level. Air should purge itself after 10 miles or so, and does, if it
gets hot the fans should come on automaticly, thats how its designed.

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