Re: 2000 Camry Solara audio install guide

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Old 18 Feb 2016, 10:40 am   #1 (permalink)
randy.cousins1@gmail.com
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Default Re: 2000 Camry Solara audio install guide

On Tuesday, September 5, 2000 at 10:20:18 PM UTC-4, spam wrote:
> This is a mini install guide for the 2000 Toyota Camry Solara (and
> most likely 2001) *WITH* the JBL audio system.
>
> (It is possbile that this guide could apply to Solara's without
> the JBL system -- variations would be the absence of the
> amplifer harness described below. The basic disassembly of
> the console would definitely apply, though)
>
> First, the JBL option is a Panasonic built 6 CD changer/Cassette/AM-FM
> radio with JBL-powered speakers. Previously, Toyota used Fujitsu-Ten
> ("Eclipse") for their radios (and their "Premium" sound option, which
> was not co-branded with anybody). The switchover to Panasonic was
> apparently during the 2000 year model. I've seen so-called 1999
> models with Panasonic head units, but those may be late model
> year builds.
>
> The Fujitsu-Ten units were only offered with a single-CD/cassette/AM-FM
> in the head unit, with CD changer controls for use with an external
> changer. The Eclipse CD changers supposedly worked directly with the
> head units, but don't quote me on that. There are plenty of mfgrs
> who make interface converters that will allow, at the very least,
> Panasonic(!) and Eclipse changers, possibly others. Consult your
> reputable auto stereo dealer or the usual auto stereo interface
> web page(s) (like PIE and AAMP-Stinger).
>
> The Panasonic head unit is very easily uninstalled and the connectors
> are standard Toyota '97-Present 2-connector setup, but this is NOT
> obvious when you initially pull the unit out.
>
> Tools needed are a 10mm socket wrench and a 9mm socket wrench. Also
> a Phillips head screwdriver and an 11mm socket wrench is needed if
> you rip out the JBL amp also (if you want to sell the whole
> system on EBay).
>
> Other things needed are a Toyota wiring harness adapter, AAMP part
> BHA-1761 or Metra 70-1761. Also a 1-DIN pocket to put under the
> radio, Metra 88-00-9000 or AAMP BKTN-2150(?!?) -- I am not sure
> of that AAMP part.
>
> First, the outer trim panel that makes up the center of the dashboard
> is strictly a pull-out affair. Take the ashtray out completely, and
> grabbing the plastic below the ashtray holder, start pulling gently.
> Slide your fingers under and pull out as you run your fingers up the
> complete center trim panel. DO NOT pull the panel out more than 2-4
> inches YET. After you have the panel pulled off the console, unplug
> starting from the top (squeezing the locking tabs inward towards the
> connector) the clock power (white plug) and the emergency flasher
> (black plug), then on the bottom of the panel unplug the cigarette
> lighter light (small white plug), the lighter power (clear plug) and
> the ashtray light assembly (small light on a black base). That should
> be all the plugs on the center trim assembly. Remove out of the way.
>
> Now, grab the 10mm socket wrench and start unscrewing the 4 bolts on
> each corner of the radio head unit itself. After unscrewing the bolts,
> pull the radio out and reach behind the radio and unplug the single
> connector to the radio (same push in tab as above). The plug will be
> in the middle of the radio. That takes care of the radio removal.
>
> Now, you will see that you only have one loose connector that DOES NOT
> look anything like the 2-connector wiring harness you bought. That
> connector is the JBL amplifier connector. BUT, look inside the now
> empty hole where the radio was. On the right side inside the hole will
> be a white connector assembly. Pull the 2 connectors that go to the
> assembly (again using the push-in tabs). You now are holding the
> Toyota standard 2-connector radio wiring harness. That is where you
> connect your AAMP or Metra wiring harness adapter. You have basically
> disconnected the JBL amplifier.
>
> ****
> Do you want to uninstall the JBL amp (to sell the complete system on
> EBay)??? STOP HERE and go to the instructions at the end of this.
> ****
>
> Now, wire the new head-unit you just bought to the AAMP/Metra harness
> adapter. I personally use intermediate Molex connectors just in case
> I change head units (and I do!). The harness will NOT require the
> antenna power connector (the antenna[s] are in the rear window), so
> it's best to leave this lead wrapped in electrical tape (cut the
> extra bare wire off first) or stick it in a plastic terminator.
> Also, use the dimmer lead on the harness adapter, not the "dimmer
> ground" or "illumination" power lead.
>
> You will NOT need the "cage" that came with you new head unit. Put
> it back in the box.
>
> 2 antenna leads were used for the stock radio. This was used as a
> diversity system. If you have a diversity radio, then no problem.
> Otherwise, wrap the small antenna lead in electrical tape and stuff
> into the back of the open hole.
>
> TEST the new head unit before you start reassembly! BTW: The turn
> signals do not work without being connected to the emergency blinker
> switch -- so no, you did not blow a fuse!
>
> Now, stop here. Outside the car, grab the old stock head unit. Grab
> the 9mm socket wrench and remove the 4 screws that hold a metal bracket
> on the side of the radio. Do the same on the opposite end. Put the
> radio aside.
>
> Now, back to your radio. Take the metal brackets you just removed
> from the stock radio and mount them on the side of your new head unit.
> Most, if not all head units will have screw holes that will align up
> with the bracket holes. Use the screws that came off the old radio
> to use on the new head unit. You will only need 2 of the original
> screws. Put the completed head unit and bracket assembly in the
> dashboard just to make sure it's aligned properly. Take the
> assembly back out.
>
> Now, loosen the brackets ever so slightly. Take the 1-DIN pocket
> and position it underneath the radio. The Metra pocket I have had
> alignment holes that matched the brackets perfectly and I did not
> have to use the old screws. Tighten the brackets back up keeping
> the pocket properly aligned.
>
> Now, with the wiring connected up (and radio tested), put the complete
> assembly back into the console and using the 10mm socket wrench screw
> the assembly back in. Again, test the system to make sure you didn't
> short any wires.
>
> Now, reverse the disassembly of the center trim panel above. When
> pushing the panel back into the dashboard, BE CAREFUL to do this
> slowly as the openings have felt padding on them -- especially around
> the radio and radio pocket. You may need to help guide the panel
> opening around the radio assembly.
>
> That's about it for the radio installation.
>
> ****
>
> Disassembly of the JBL amplifier subsystem.
>
> The JBL amplifier is located behind the glovebox against the firewall
> on the passenger side. The complete system compromises the radio/CD
> changer head unit, the wiring adapter subassembly, the JBL amplifier
> and the amplifier holding bracket.
>
> First, you will need your phillips screwdriver and 11mm socket wrench.
> Underneath the glovebox is a panel that covers everything against the
> front firewall. This pops out -- the clips being at the front, away
> from the firewall. Pop this panel out and put it aside. Next,
> open your glovebox and take everything out. Unscrew the 3 phillips
> screws on the top of the glovebox opening. Now, underneath the
> glovebox on the left side, unscrew the phillips screw there.
> Now look on your far right side and against the firewall, underneath
> the glovebox. There will be a black plastic "cap" that holds the
> side wall trim panel. This unscrews by hand -- unscrew it. Now
> look near the doorjamb where the running board trim plastic ends.
> Grab that and pop it up. That is held by the sidewall trim panel
> you just unscrewed. At the same time, move that sidewall trim out.
> You just exposed a copper colored bolt. That is the last glovebox
> screw. Unscrew this using the 11mm socket wrench. Now the glovebox
> is being held by 2 tabs on the top of the assembly. Last is a
> small wiring harness that is attached to the glovebox itself
> on a pop-out door. Get a dime or similar flat bladed screwdriver,
> look inside the glove box on the left side near the top and you
> will see the small door (2" by 3"). Pop that open -- the
> wire harness will be attached to that door. Push the whole
> door/harness assembly back into the hole sideways (i.e.: you're
> moving it out of the way). Now, grab the top of the glovebox and
> gently pop it out -- off the top 2 tabs. The box then can be
> totally removed. Put it out of the way.
>
> Now look into the glovebox opening. Continue to the back firewall.
> On the right side you will see 2 metal housings that are about 1 1/2"
> wide by 5" tall. The rightmost one will be the amplifier. It
> should be marked JBL. The other metal box is the car computer
> -- BE CAREFUL with this box. This is the brains of the car.
>
> Disconnect the 2 wiring connectors from the amplifier. Take your
> 9mm socket wrench and an extension and unscrew the 2 bolts that
> hold the bracket for the amplifier (one on top and one on the bottom).
> The amplifier should come right out now. Put it out of the way.
>
> Next, you will need to remove the wiring subassembly. The
> 2 connectors that were on the amplifier run together as one
> fabric wrapped wire bundle. There are about 5 plastic holders
> for the wiring run to the radio location, and all of them
> (except for one) are squeeze tab type holders that cars are so
> famous for. Pliers help if you don't have small enough fingers.
> The wiring bundle terminates on the 2-connector white assembly
> in the radio opening, and that assembly is also held by a squeeze
> tab holder. That comes out also. Patience and care are needed
> here as you remove the holders and wiring assembly.
>
> After you remove the wiring subassembly, reverse the glovebox
> removal above.
>
> -> Now, you have the complete stereo system that makes up the
> JBL option. The radio itself may not appeal to the average
> car audio enthusiast as radio has limited high-end
> performance and a low-end crossover that is fairly high.
> This may be compensation for the awful acoustics of the
> Solara and the matching JBL low-end speakers.
>
> The best resale for the system is to another Solara
> or Camry owner, most likely 1999 or newer. It will be a
> straight reverse of the above. Speaker upgrades for such
> installations are highly recommended as the stock OEM speakers
> will not take the high volumes very well
>
> Other Toyota's are possible. Remember that this is a "double-DIN"
> sized radio unit. A quick look shows the same wiring
> harness used as far back as 1987. The only caveats here are
> common-ground speaker systems. I think this is a thing of the
> past with modern cars, but YMMV. The amplifier will need a
> mounting location, and considering the small size, you should
> not have a problem. The amplifier holding bracket looks like
> it is removed by some allen-wrench screws, and that will make
> the amplifier easier to reintegrate in another car.
>
> Installation in other auto makes again requires a double-DIN
> size, and also a "reverse" wiring harness (both AAMP and Metra
> make such reverse harnesses, AAMP part BHO-1761 and Metra
> 71-1761). The unit has no "cage" to facilitate installation,
> so you will need to find a double-DIN cage and drill side
> holes to re-screw the original mounting screws -- maybe there
> is such a cage ready made? Ask your dealer to let you look
> at the full AAMP or Metra catalogs and see what you can find.
>
> Now, go back where you left off above and continue with your
> new head unit install.
>
> *****
>
> rmg
> kittyranma at my-deja dot com
>
>
>
>
>
>
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This is an old thread, but KUDOS to you for taking the time to do this...Awesome work bud!
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