88 Camry: crank pulley bolt has been welded: what to do?

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Old 19 Jun 2006, 10:50 am   #1 (permalink)
geronimo
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Default 88 Camry: crank pulley bolt has been welded: what to do?

Well, thanks for all the suggestions. Nothing worked trying to get the
damper pulley bolt removed. I got a magnifying mirror and light,
checked the 19mm pulley bolt real close. No wonder it won't break
loose. It has been welded. HOW? WHY??? Makes no sense! Really
stupid! @$I(#$&(*&#%%#!!!! You can see that there is NO crack where
the bolt joins the pulley/damper...there is a smooth metal fillet all
around the bolt! No mechanic would have done this, it would have to
have been this way from the factory...so it seems.
The fillet material seems to be hard steel. I heated the bolt head as
hot as I could get it with MAPP gas, and it had no effect on the
fillet material, so it is not some sort of low-temp solder.


So, I presume that the only thing left to do is to get a die grinder
and grind the head completely off. Hopefully I can then get the
pulley off with my harmonic balancer puller. The big problem then is
how to get the bolt stud out? I have plenty of Kroil penetrant left
over, would a pipe wrench work?

Can I use any suitable metric bolt, or will I have to get a specific
replacement damper pulley bolt from somewhere?

Thanks, Geronimo

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Old 19 Jun 2006, 06:16 pm   #2 (permalink)
timbirr@mailcity.com
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Default Re: 88 Camry: crank pulley bolt has been welded: what to do?


geronimo wrote:
> The big problem then is
> how to get the bolt stud out? I have plenty of Kroil penetrant left
> over, would a pipe wrench work?


There are a couple of methods. The only couple that I've ever had any
luck with has been using an easyout or, alternatively drilling out the
entire channel and using a helicoil insert.

This is a motorcycle page, but it has pretty detailed instructions on
the EasyOut trick.

http://motorcyclecity.com/Tech_Tips/...oval/index.htm

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Old 20 Jun 2006, 12:52 am   #3 (permalink)
davemac
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Default Re: 88 Camry: crank pulley bolt has been welded: what to do?

Are you sure it is welded to the pulley?! Hard to believe. If so I
can imagine how frustrating that must have been considering how hard
you have tried to get this thing off. I feel for you man. I can
imagine some idiot spot welding the bolt to the pulley for some reason,
but a smooth fillet all around just does not make sense. I would get a
2nd opinion to be sure.

dave mc

geronimo wrote:
> Well, thanks for all the suggestions. Nothing worked trying to get the
> damper pulley bolt removed. I got a magnifying mirror and light,
> checked the 19mm pulley bolt real close. No wonder it won't break
> loose. It has been welded. HOW? WHY??? Makes no sense! Really
> stupid! @$I(#$&(*&#%%#!!!! You can see that there is NO crack where
> the bolt joins the pulley/damper...there is a smooth metal fillet all
> around the bolt! No mechanic would have done this, it would have to
> have been this way from the factory...so it seems.
> The fillet material seems to be hard steel. I heated the bolt head as
> hot as I could get it with MAPP gas, and it had no effect on the
> fillet material, so it is not some sort of low-temp solder.
>
>
> So, I presume that the only thing left to do is to get a die grinder
> and grind the head completely off. Hopefully I can then get the
> pulley off with my harmonic balancer puller. The big problem then is
> how to get the bolt stud out? I have plenty of Kroil penetrant left
> over, would a pipe wrench work?
>
> Can I use any suitable metric bolt, or will I have to get a specific
> replacement damper pulley bolt from somewhere?
>
> Thanks, Geronimo


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Old 20 Jun 2006, 05:42 am   #4 (permalink)
m Ransley
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Default Re: 88 Camry: crank pulley bolt has been welded: what to do?

As davemac said .Maybe a spot weld that can possibly be ground out makes
sence but as dave said a whole bead? There is a Nut cracking tool, a
clamp with anvil point that is tightened on the nut.

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Old 20 Jun 2006, 09:38 am   #5 (permalink)
Daniel
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Default Re: 88 Camry: crank pulley bolt has been welded: what to do?

geronimo wrote:
> Well, thanks for all the suggestions. Nothing worked trying to get the
> damper pulley bolt removed.

================================
Perhaps you should just call the wrecking yard now and have the car
towed for scrap value -- that's where you're headed if you grind off
the head of the crankshaft pulley bolt and then try to remove the stud
with a pipe wrench.
The crankshaft pulley bolt is attached to the --- *crankshaft* -- is
this a part you want to risk damaging and replacing?
-------------------
You say nothing worked.
Did you try, as suggested earlier, simply driving or towing the car to
a good mechanic and have them spin off the bolt with their equipment in
a matter of moments?
This is the kind of thing mechanics do all day long, every day - it's
no problem for them and the cost is minimal.
-----------
I find it very difficult to belive the bolt is welded in place. More
likely it appears that way because of the bolt construction and the way
it is assembled. I can believe the flange is welded to the head - or
one piece construction.
1) Buy a new bolt from the dealer.
2) Take the bolt to a mechanic and have them install it for you. (Keep
the old bolt as a souvenir)
3) Carry on with your work.

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Old 20 Jun 2006, 10:21 am   #6 (permalink)
geronimo
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Default Re: 88 Camry: crank pulley bolt has been welded: what to do?

Thanks for planting doubts, there! I took another look at it, and
what I think I am actually seeing is that the bolt head "fillets" into
a washer about two in. in diameter diameter. It is probably a bolt
with a very wide flange. No, there sure is no way it would have been
welded!
I have a guy coming over, he has pro mechanic experience. He has
a 3/4 in breaker bar and socket. That will probably do the trick. If
not, I am going to get the car towed over to his place and let him
work on it there. Thanks, Geronimo


On 20 Jun 2006 07:38:17 -0700, "Daniel" <nospampls2002@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>geronimo wrote:
>> Well, thanks for all the suggestions. Nothing worked trying to get the
>> damper pulley bolt removed.

>================================
>Perhaps you should just call the wrecking yard now and have the car
>towed for scrap value -- that's where you're headed if you grind off
>the head of the crankshaft pulley bolt and then try to remove the stud
>with a pipe wrench.
>The crankshaft pulley bolt is attached to the --- *crankshaft* -- is
>this a part you want to risk damaging and replacing?
>-------------------
>You say nothing worked.
>Did you try, as suggested earlier, simply driving or towing the car to
>a good mechanic and have them spin off the bolt with their equipment in
>a matter of moments?
>This is the kind of thing mechanics do all day long, every day - it's
>no problem for them and the cost is minimal.
>-----------
>I find it very difficult to belive the bolt is welded in place. More
>likely it appears that way because of the bolt construction and the way
>it is assembled. I can believe the flange is welded to the head - or
>one piece construction.
>1) Buy a new bolt from the dealer.
>2) Take the bolt to a mechanic and have them install it for you. (Keep
>the old bolt as a souvenir)
>3) Carry on with your work.


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Old 21 Jun 2006, 12:39 pm   #7 (permalink)
Geoff
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Default Re: 88 Camry: crank pulley bolt has been welded: what to do?

Hi,

These bolts are the very devil to get out. Toyota puts them in with
threadlock, Loctite. As others have said, warming the bolt until it is just
too hot to touch will help.

The trouble with breaker bars and so forth is that you have to prevent the
crankshaft from turning at the time. With a manual you can put it in gear,
but on some models there is a cover you can remove to wedge the flywheel,
which is better for the gearbox.

With an auto, if this little cover is present so you can get at a converter
bolt and wedge it, good, but if the cover is not present (like on mine), you
have a big problem. I have heard of people removing the oil pan so the crank
could be prevented from turning, in this situation.

I think a pro would use a rattle gun (impact wrench), and warm the bolt
head. The biggest baddest impact wrench you can find is good, and remember,
you have to tighten it up again later....

Geoff


<geronimo> wrote in message
news:274g92l4eng374ha2n5hoqc49eh6150ger@4ax.com...
> Thanks for planting doubts, there! I took another look at it, and
> what I think I am actually seeing is that the bolt head "fillets" into
> a washer about two in. in diameter diameter. It is probably a bolt
> with a very wide flange. No, there sure is no way it would have been
> welded!
> I have a guy coming over, he has pro mechanic experience. He has
> a 3/4 in breaker bar and socket. That will probably do the trick. If
> not, I am going to get the car towed over to his place and let him
> work on it there. Thanks, Geronimo
>
>
> On 20 Jun 2006 07:38:17 -0700, "Daniel" <nospampls2002@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>>geronimo wrote:
>>> Well, thanks for all the suggestions. Nothing worked trying to get the
>>> damper pulley bolt removed.

>>================================
>>Perhaps you should just call the wrecking yard now and have the car
>>towed for scrap value -- that's where you're headed if you grind off
>>the head of the crankshaft pulley bolt and then try to remove the stud
>>with a pipe wrench.
>>The crankshaft pulley bolt is attached to the --- *crankshaft* -- is
>>this a part you want to risk damaging and replacing?
>>-------------------
>>You say nothing worked.
>>Did you try, as suggested earlier, simply driving or towing the car to
>>a good mechanic and have them spin off the bolt with their equipment in
>>a matter of moments?
>>This is the kind of thing mechanics do all day long, every day - it's
>>no problem for them and the cost is minimal.
>>-----------
>>I find it very difficult to belive the bolt is welded in place. More
>>likely it appears that way because of the bolt construction and the way
>>it is assembled. I can believe the flange is welded to the head - or
>>one piece construction.
>>1) Buy a new bolt from the dealer.
>>2) Take the bolt to a mechanic and have them install it for you. (Keep
>>the old bolt as a souvenir)
>>3) Carry on with your work.

>



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