How to set TDC on 3S-FE engine?

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 28 Jul 2006, 02:51 pm   #1 (permalink)
geronimo
Guest
  • Posts: n/a
  • User Status:


Default How to set TDC on 3S-FE engine?



Am replacing oil pump and water pump on '88 Camry wagon. Also changing
timing belt. Never done a big job like this before. New timing belt
is not on yet. Setting the crankshaft for TDC is simple enough. That
is set. Damper pulley mark is at zero mark. However the marks that
are behind the camshaft pulley are confusing....because there are
three! Behind the pulley---I guess that is the lip of the camshaft
bearing...there are two round indentations, and then there is a raised
line. As I have it positioned now, the little cam pulley hole is at
about 12 o'clock, lined up with up with the first round indentation.
I thought that was THE mark....only to notice later that if you
continue around, the hole lines up with another round dimple, and then
a raised line. The raised line is now more or less in line with the
narrow "peak" of the rear #1 piston cam lobes... .and they are
pointing at about the 9 o'clock position--- pointing towards the rear
of the car. All four #1 valves appear to be closed. I can't find my
haynes manual now to check... but I thought it showed the cam pulley
hole at 12 o'clock, for TDC on compression stroke. I was also thinking
that the #1 cam lobes would be pointing straight up. With this
position on the camshaft pulley, I took the dist. cap off, and the
rotor is pointing *generally* towards the #1 spark wire. But... it
could be around 20 degrees off from dead center on the #1 spark
electrode, because you have to pull the cap way off/outward to see
where electrode and rotor are in relation to one another.
What it looks like is that if I set it so the cam pulley hole is
lined up with that raised line--- rather than on one of the
dimples---the rotor would be quite a bit off from the #1 spark
electrode.


When I got the car (180K miles on it), there was a loud bearing
grinding noise coming from the front of the engine. So I knew
something was worn out and about to fail. Sure enough, when I removed
the water pump, the corrosion and wear damage to the impeller and
bearing were so bad that I could not even turn it by hand! So it is a
good thing I tore the engine down to replace the parts on the front of
the engine now rather than later.

Thanks, Geronimo

  Reply With Quote
Old 28 Jul 2006, 04:18 pm   #2 (permalink)
NickySantoro
Guest
  • Posts: n/a
  • User Status:


Default Re: How to set TDC on 3S-FE engine?

On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 14:51:17 -0500, geronimo wrote:

>
>
>Am replacing oil pump and water pump on '88 Camry wagon. Also changing
>timing belt. Never done a big job like this before. New timing belt
>is not on yet. Setting the crankshaft for TDC is simple enough. That
>is set. Damper pulley mark is at zero mark. However the marks that
>are behind the camshaft pulley are confusing....because there are
>three! Behind the pulley---I guess that is the lip of the camshaft
>bearing...there are two round indentations, and then there is a raised
>line. As I have it positioned now, the little cam pulley hole is at
>about 12 o'clock, lined up with up with the first round indentation.
>I thought that was THE mark....only to notice later that if you
>continue around, the hole lines up with another round dimple, and then
>a raised line. The raised line is now more or less in line with the
>narrow "peak" of the rear #1 piston cam lobes... .and they are
>pointing at about the 9 o'clock position--- pointing towards the rear
>of the car. All four #1 valves appear to be closed. I can't find my
>haynes manual now to check... but I thought it showed the cam pulley
>hole at 12 o'clock, for TDC on compression stroke. I was also thinking
>that the #1 cam lobes would be pointing straight up. With this
>position on the camshaft pulley, I took the dist. cap off, and the
>rotor is pointing *generally* towards the #1 spark wire. But... it
>could be around 20 degrees off from dead center on the #1 spark
>electrode, because you have to pull the cap way off/outward to see
>where electrode and rotor are in relation to one another.
> What it looks like is that if I set it so the cam pulley hole is
>lined up with that raised line--- rather than on one of the
>dimples---the rotor would be quite a bit off from the #1 spark
>electrode.
>
>
>When I got the car (180K miles on it), there was a loud bearing
>grinding noise coming from the front of the engine. So I knew
>something was worn out and about to fail. Sure enough, when I removed
>the water pump, the corrosion and wear damage to the impeller and
>bearing were so bad that I could not even turn it by hand! So it is a
>good thing I tore the engine down to replace the parts on the front of
>the engine now rather than later.
>
>Thanks, Geronimo

FWIW....
http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/index.html
  Reply With Quote
Old 28 Jul 2006, 11:30 pm   #3 (permalink)
johngdole@hotmail.com
Guest
  • Posts: n/a
  • User Status:


Default Re: How to set TDC on 3S-FE engine?

Also check the AutoZone free repair guide for the 88 Camry:

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8013e607.jsp


geronimo wrote:
> Am replacing oil pump and water pump on '88 Camry wagon. Also changing
> timing belt. Never done a big job like this before. New timing belt
> is not on yet. Setting the crankshaft for TDC is simple enough. That
> is set. Damper pulley mark is at zero mark. However the marks that
> are behind the camshaft pulley are confusing....because there are
> three! Behind the pulley---I guess that is the lip of the camshaft
> bearing...there are two round indentations, and then there is a raised
> line. As I have it positioned now, the little cam pulley hole is at
> about 12 o'clock, lined up with up with the first round indentation.
> I thought that was THE mark....only to notice later that if you
> continue around, the hole lines up with another round dimple, and then
> a raised line. The raised line is now more or less in line with the
> narrow "peak" of the rear #1 piston cam lobes... .and they are
> pointing at about the 9 o'clock position--- pointing towards the rear
> of the car. All four #1 valves appear to be closed. I can't find my
> haynes manual now to check... but I thought it showed the cam pulley
> hole at 12 o'clock, for TDC on compression stroke. I was also thinking
> that the #1 cam lobes would be pointing straight up. With this
> position on the camshaft pulley, I took the dist. cap off, and the
> rotor is pointing *generally* towards the #1 spark wire. But... it
> could be around 20 degrees off from dead center on the #1 spark
> electrode, because you have to pull the cap way off/outward to see
> where electrode and rotor are in relation to one another.
> What it looks like is that if I set it so the cam pulley hole is
> lined up with that raised line--- rather than on one of the
> dimples---the rotor would be quite a bit off from the #1 spark
> electrode.
>
>
> When I got the car (180K miles on it), there was a loud bearing
> grinding noise coming from the front of the engine. So I knew
> something was worn out and about to fail. Sure enough, when I removed
> the water pump, the corrosion and wear damage to the impeller and
> bearing were so bad that I could not even turn it by hand! So it is a
> good thing I tore the engine down to replace the parts on the front of
> the engine now rather than later.
>
> Thanks, Geronimo


  Reply With Quote
Old 29 Jul 2006, 03:37 am   #4 (permalink)
geronimo
Guest
  • Posts: n/a
  • User Status:


Default Re: How to set TDC on 3S-FE engine?


The info from Autozone and manual from Oregon U. both only tell you to
align the camshaft sprocket hole with the "match-mark". ( Not marks).
They say nothing about the correct position of the #1 piston cam
lobes, either. Come to think of it, I set it for TDC, aligning cam
sprocket hole, before ever releasing timing belt tension/changing the
relationship in any way. Trouble is I dont remember for sure what cam
sprocket mark it was lined up with now, as it has been torn down for
so long. Was it the raised line or a dimple mark? And the camshaft
cover was on then, so I couldn't see the position of the #1 piston cam
lobes. I lost the setting, as it was necessry to move both the
camshaft and crankshaft after removing timing belt and other parts.

The other problem I see putting the engine back together is that there
was no crankshaft timing sprocket guide....that "cupped washer"....
when I took the engine apart. No telling how many tens of thousands of
miles were put on the engine without it, so apparently the timing belt
can't get out of position when restrained by the timing cover (or
former owner was just lucky). So l would like to obtain one so it is
re-assembled right this time. Is this something I can buy, no
problem?
Thanks geronimo



On 28 Jul 2006 21:30:16 -0700, johngdole@hotmail.com wrote:

>Also check the AutoZone free repair guide for the 88 Camry:
>
>http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8013e607.jsp
>
>
>geronimo wrote:
>> Am replacing oil pump and water pump on '88 Camry wagon. Also changing
>> timing belt. Never done a big job like this before. New timing belt
>> is not on yet. Setting the crankshaft for TDC is simple enough. That
>> is set. Damper pulley mark is at zero mark. However the marks that
>> are behind the camshaft pulley are confusing....because there are
>> three! Behind the pulley---I guess that is the lip of the camshaft
>> bearing...there are two round indentations, and then there is a raised
>> line. As I have it positioned now, the little cam pulley hole is at
>> about 12 o'clock, lined up with up with the first round indentation.
>> I thought that was THE mark....only to notice later that if you
>> continue around, the hole lines up with another round dimple, and then
>> a raised line. The raised line is now more or less in line with the
>> narrow "peak" of the rear #1 piston cam lobes... .and they are
>> pointing at about the 9 o'clock position--- pointing towards the rear
>> of the car. All four #1 valves appear to be closed. I can't find my
>> haynes manual now to check... but I thought it showed the cam pulley
>> hole at 12 o'clock, for TDC on compression stroke. I was also thinking
>> that the #1 cam lobes would be pointing straight up. With this
>> position on the camshaft pulley, I took the dist. cap off, and the
>> rotor is pointing *generally* towards the #1 spark wire. But... it
>> could be around 20 degrees off from dead center on the #1 spark
>> electrode, because you have to pull the cap way off/outward to see
>> where electrode and rotor are in relation to one another.
>> What it looks like is that if I set it so the cam pulley hole is
>> lined up with that raised line--- rather than on one of the
>> dimples---the rotor would be quite a bit off from the #1 spark
>> electrode.
>>
>>
>> When I got the car (180K miles on it), there was a loud bearing
>> grinding noise coming from the front of the engine. So I knew
>> something was worn out and about to fail. Sure enough, when I removed
>> the water pump, the corrosion and wear damage to the impeller and
>> bearing were so bad that I could not even turn it by hand! So it is a
>> good thing I tore the engine down to replace the parts on the front of
>> the engine now rather than later.
>>
>> Thanks, Geronimo


  Reply With Quote
Old 30 Jul 2006, 02:22 pm   #5 (permalink)
johngdole@hotmail.com
Guest
  • Posts: n/a
  • User Status:


Default Re: How to set TDC on 3S-FE engine?

Aligning the cam and crank marks is the easiest way to make sure the
correct positioning for installing the timing belt. If the marks are
aligned then the engine is at TDC for the specified cylinder. If it's
on the exhaust cycle, then the cam mark will be 180deg off. It should
be easy to see.

For the 5SFE it's using the hole in the cam sprocket. There is only one
hole and one mark. Don't know about the other marks on the 3SFE cam
sprocket/cover.

You should buy the crankshft belt guide from the dealer, after all you
put in all the work.


geronimo wrote:
> The info from Autozone and manual from Oregon U. both only tell you to
> align the camshaft sprocket hole with the "match-mark". ( Not marks).
> They say nothing about the correct position of the #1 piston cam
> lobes, either. Come to think of it, I set it for TDC, aligning cam
> sprocket hole, before ever releasing timing belt tension/changing the
> relationship in any way. Trouble is I dont remember for sure what cam
> sprocket mark it was lined up with now, as it has been torn down for
> so long. Was it the raised line or a dimple mark? And the camshaft
> cover was on then, so I couldn't see the position of the #1 piston cam
> lobes. I lost the setting, as it was necessry to move both the
> camshaft and crankshaft after removing timing belt and other parts.
>
> The other problem I see putting the engine back together is that there
> was no crankshaft timing sprocket guide....that "cupped washer"....
> when I took the engine apart. No telling how many tens of thousands of
> miles were put on the engine without it, so apparently the timing belt
> can't get out of position when restrained by the timing cover (or
> former owner was just lucky). So l would like to obtain one so it is
> re-assembled right this time. Is this something I can buy, no
> problem?
> Thanks geronimo


  Reply With Quote
Old 31 Jul 2006, 10:21 am   #6 (permalink)
geronimo
Guest
  • Posts: n/a
  • User Status:


Default Re: How to set TDC on 3S-FE engine?


I figured it out! geronimo


On Sat, 29 Jul 2006 03:37:57 -0500, geronimo wrote:

>
>The info from Autozone and manual from Oregon U. both only tell you to
>align the camshaft sprocket hole with the "match-mark". ( Not marks).
>They say nothing about the correct position of the #1 piston cam
>lobes, either. Come to think of it, I set it for TDC, aligning cam
>sprocket hole, before ever releasing timing belt tension/changing the
>relationship in any way. Trouble is I dont remember for sure what cam
>sprocket mark it was lined up with now, as it has been torn down for
>so long. Was it the raised line or a dimple mark? And the camshaft
>cover was on then, so I couldn't see the position of the #1 piston cam
>lobes. I lost the setting, as it was necessry to move both the
>camshaft and crankshaft after removing timing belt and other parts.
>
>The other problem I see putting the engine back together is that there
>was no crankshaft timing sprocket guide....that "cupped washer"....
>when I took the engine apart. No telling how many tens of thousands of
>miles were put on the engine without it, so apparently the timing belt
>can't get out of position when restrained by the timing cover (or
>former owner was just lucky). So l would like to obtain one so it is
>re-assembled right this time. Is this something I can buy, no
>problem?
>Thanks geronimo
>
>
>
>On 28 Jul 2006 21:30:16 -0700, johngdole@hotmail.com wrote:
>
>>Also check the AutoZone free repair guide for the 88 Camry:
>>
>>http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8013e607.jsp
>>
>>
>>geronimo wrote:
>>> Am replacing oil pump and water pump on '88 Camry wagon. Also changing
>>> timing belt. Never done a big job like this before. New timing belt
>>> is not on yet. Setting the crankshaft for TDC is simple enough. That
>>> is set. Damper pulley mark is at zero mark. However the marks that
>>> are behind the camshaft pulley are confusing....because there are
>>> three! Behind the pulley---I guess that is the lip of the camshaft
>>> bearing...there are two round indentations, and then there is a raised
>>> line. As I have it positioned now, the little cam pulley hole is at
>>> about 12 o'clock, lined up with up with the first round indentation.
>>> I thought that was THE mark....only to notice later that if you
>>> continue around, the hole lines up with another round dimple, and then
>>> a raised line. The raised line is now more or less in line with the
>>> narrow "peak" of the rear #1 piston cam lobes... .and they are
>>> pointing at about the 9 o'clock position--- pointing towards the rear
>>> of the car. All four #1 valves appear to be closed. I can't find my
>>> haynes manual now to check... but I thought it showed the cam pulley
>>> hole at 12 o'clock, for TDC on compression stroke. I was also thinking
>>> that the #1 cam lobes would be pointing straight up. With this
>>> position on the camshaft pulley, I took the dist. cap off, and the
>>> rotor is pointing *generally* towards the #1 spark wire. But... it
>>> could be around 20 degrees off from dead center on the #1 spark
>>> electrode, because you have to pull the cap way off/outward to see
>>> where electrode and rotor are in relation to one another.
>>> What it looks like is that if I set it so the cam pulley hole is
>>> lined up with that raised line--- rather than on one of the
>>> dimples---the rotor would be quite a bit off from the #1 spark
>>> electrode.
>>>
>>>
>>> When I got the car (180K miles on it), there was a loud bearing
>>> grinding noise coming from the front of the engine. So I knew
>>> something was worn out and about to fail. Sure enough, when I removed
>>> the water pump, the corrosion and wear damage to the impeller and
>>> bearing were so bad that I could not even turn it by hand! So it is a
>>> good thing I tore the engine down to replace the parts on the front of
>>> the engine now rather than later.
>>>
>>> Thanks, Geronimo


  Reply With Quote

Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:07 am.

Attribution:
Autoblog
Powered by Yahoo Answers



ToyotaLexusForum.com is an unofficial community for car enthusiasts. ToyotaLexusForum.com is not affiliated with Toyota Motor Corporation in any way.
Toyota Motor Corporation does not sponsor, support, or endorse ToyotaLexusForum.com in any way.
Copyright/trademark/sales mark infringements are not intended or implied.