Alternator of Battery?

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Old 09 Sep 2006, 12:54 pm   #1 (permalink)
C4MRY_4_3V3R
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Default Alternator of Battery?

I think its the alternator, but here's my question....
A few days ago, I noticed that the "charging" indicator light would
turn on as the car passed 1k rpm. When the A/C is on, it comes on
after 2k rpm. Anyways, last sunday as I was getting ready to head to
church, the car would not start, battery was completely dead. My
friend gave me a jumper and the battery charged up (green window).
Another thing I noticed was that as I hit the gas, the dash lighing
would spike, and go down as I released the gas.

Please help,
T

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Old 09 Sep 2006, 02:00 pm   #2 (permalink)
Nobody Important
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Default Re: Alternator of Battery?

C4MRY_4_3V3R wrote:
> I think its the alternator, but here's my question....
> A few days ago, I noticed that the "charging" indicator light would
> turn on as the car passed 1k rpm. When the A/C is on, it comes on
> after 2k rpm. Anyways, last sunday as I was getting ready to head to
> church, the car would not start, battery was completely dead. My
> friend gave me a jumper and the battery charged up (green window).
> Another thing I noticed was that as I hit the gas, the dash lighing
> would spike, and go down as I released the gas.


First, make sure the alternator belt isn't slipping. If not, it might
be a regulator problem, which would entail breaking down the alternator
and installing a new regulator board, or getting a new/remanufactured
alternator.

Do you own a voltmeter?
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Old 10 Sep 2006, 09:10 am   #3 (permalink)
Daniel
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Default Re: Alternator of Battery?

C4MRY_4_3V3R wrote:
> I think its the alternator, but here's my question....
> A few days ago, I noticed that the "charging" indicator light would
> turn on as the car passed 1k rpm. When the A/C is on, it comes on
> after 2k rpm. Anyways, last sunday as I was getting ready to head to
> church, the car would not start, battery was completely dead. My
> friend gave me a jumper and the battery charged up (green window).
> Another thing I noticed was that as I hit the gas, the dash lighing
> would spike, and go down as I released the gas.
>
> Please help,
> T

================================================== ====
Try replacing the brushes. Most common problem on Denso alternators
around 150,000 miles. Should run around $20 from the dealer and you're
likely to wind up with a better alternator than one "rebuilt" under
questionable conditions.
A simple voltage reading at the battery terminals with the engine
running should show the charging voltage. Multimeters are available
inexpensively.
Try part number 27370-35060 for the brushes, just check to make sure it
fits your model year.
Personally, I much prefer the batteries where you can check the fluid.
Even though they're called "maintenance free" batteries, the caps can
be pried off and you can check the state of charge of each cell with a
hydrometer. EzRed makes a good inexpensive temperature compensated
hydrometer. I like them because it can give an indication of a weak
cell before the battery quits altogether and also can serve as a guide
when charging the battery, plus I once had a Delco battery with the
"green eye" actually explode under the hood a number of years ago. All
I did was try to start the car. Can only imagine an internal short.
General wisdom is that most batteries are soon due for replacement
after three years.
I use a product called "battery equalizer" from an online company
called "Battery Stuff" that has worked well for me and others -
especially if the battery sits unused.
You should learn to read the manufacture date code on the side of a new
battery to avoid buying one over six months old because internal
sulfation can begin to reduce capacity.

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Old 11 Sep 2006, 01:20 am   #4 (permalink)
sharx35
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Default Re: Alternator of Battery?


"Daniel" <nospampls2002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1157897407.951291.170770@m79g2000cwm.googlegr oups.com...
> C4MRY_4_3V3R wrote:
>> I think its the alternator, but here's my question....
>> A few days ago, I noticed that the "charging" indicator light would
>> turn on as the car passed 1k rpm. When the A/C is on, it comes on
>> after 2k rpm. Anyways, last sunday as I was getting ready to head to
>> church, the car would not start, battery was completely dead. My
>> friend gave me a jumper and the battery charged up (green window).
>> Another thing I noticed was that as I hit the gas, the dash lighing
>> would spike, and go down as I released the gas.
>>
>> Please help,
>> T

> ================================================== ====
> Try replacing the brushes. Most common problem on Denso alternators
> around 150,000 miles. Should run around $20 from the dealer and you're
> likely to wind up with a better alternator than one "rebuilt" under
> questionable conditions.
> A simple voltage reading at the battery terminals with the engine
> running should show the charging voltage. Multimeters are available
> inexpensively.
> Try part number 27370-35060 for the brushes, just check to make sure it
> fits your model year.
> Personally, I much prefer the batteries where you can check the fluid.
> Even though they're called "maintenance free" batteries, the caps can
> be pried off and you can check the state of charge of each cell with a
> hydrometer. EzRed makes a good inexpensive temperature compensated
> hydrometer. I like them because it can give an indication of a weak
> cell before the battery quits altogether and also can serve as a guide
> when charging the battery, plus I once had a Delco battery with the
> "green eye" actually explode under the hood a number of years ago. All
> I did was try to start the car. Can only imagine an internal short.
> General wisdom is that most batteries are soon due for replacement
> after three years.


Oh? Cite, please.



> I use a product called "battery equalizer" from an online company
> called "Battery Stuff" that has worked well for me and others -
> especially if the battery sits unused.
> You should learn to read the manufacture date code on the side of a new
> battery to avoid buying one over six months old because internal
> sulfation can begin to reduce capacity.
>



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Old 11 Sep 2006, 11:10 am   #5 (permalink)
johngdole@hotmail.com
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Default Re: Alternator of Battery?

The voltage regulator in the alternator may be bad. Do check that
your belt isn't slipping and make sure cables are tight and without
corrosion.

Alternator brushes should be inspected at around 100 K miles. They
should last at least 120K miles on normal duty so I'd change the brush
assembly every other timing belt (based on the 60K mile schedule).

If the brush assembly is good (> ~2mm left) and the belt is properly
tensioned, then pull the alternator and have it tested free at your
local NAPA auto parts store (check your local stores).

Also, I change out the battery every 5 years on a preventative basis no
questions asked. Cheap enough these days (~$39 for a Johnson Control at
Walmart). I won't wait until a battery goes bad because it can strain
the alternator (increasing output and heat), taking it out sooner.


C4MRY_4_3V3R wrote:
> I think its the alternator, but here's my question....
> A few days ago, I noticed that the "charging" indicator light would
> turn on as the car passed 1k rpm. When the A/C is on, it comes on
> after 2k rpm. Anyways, last sunday as I was getting ready to head to
> church, the car would not start, battery was completely dead. My
> friend gave me a jumper and the battery charged up (green window).
> Another thing I noticed was that as I hit the gas, the dash lighing
> would spike, and go down as I released the gas.
>
> Please help,
> T


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Old 12 Sep 2006, 02:14 pm   #6 (permalink)
Jason James
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Default Re: Alternator of Battery?


<johngdole@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1157991015.660641.22830@h48g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
> The voltage regulator in the alternator may be bad. Do check that
> your belt isn't slipping and make sure cables are tight and without
> corrosion.
>
> Alternator brushes should be inspected at around 100 K miles. They
> should last at least 120K miles on normal duty so I'd change the brush
> assembly every other timing belt (based on the 60K mile schedule).
>
> If the brush assembly is good (> ~2mm left) and the belt is properly
> tensioned, then pull the alternator and have it tested free at your
> local NAPA auto parts store (check your local stores).
>
> Also, I change out the battery every 5 years on a preventative basis no
> questions asked. Cheap enough these days (~$39 for a Johnson Control at
> Walmart). I won't wait until a battery goes bad because it can strain
> the alternator (increasing output and heat), taking it out sooner.


Unless the faulty battery has a shorted cell, the alternnator will not be
overloaded by a bad battery. What usually happens, is the batteries internal
resistance goes up rendering it incapable of supplying cranking current for
long. Once the engine does start, the alternator sees the battery as a much
less *current* sink, and simply cant force a lot of current into it for
long. The batteries float voltage may well look normal, but it has little
current-capability behind that voltage reading.

Jason


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Old 13 Sep 2006, 10:27 am   #7 (permalink)
C4MRY_4_3V3R
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Default Re: Alternator of Battery?

Wow, great advice from all sides! One thing I did notice just the
other day is that when I hit the gas, the dash and healight spike up.
I'm going to Strauss today to get a new battery, I'm sure mine is way
past the 5yr mark. Got car from my bro but I don't think he ever
changed the battery while he had it. I'll ask him anyways.

Thanks Again!
T

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Old 16 Sep 2006, 04:10 pm   #8 (permalink)
C4MRY_4_3V3R
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Default Re: Alternator of Battery?

Hey everyone, problem fixed. I went to my friend who's a wiz with
cars, his phone was messed up which is why I couldn't get in touch with
him. One look, he took me to a friend's shop that specializes on
alternators and got me one for a deep discount. He replaced it for a
very minor fee and now I'm on the road again....

Thanks for all the help guys!

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