96 Camry 2.2L

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Old 16 Oct 2006, 09:04 am   #1 (permalink)
Ralph Shapiro
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Default 96 Camry 2.2L

Just bought this Camry with 82K on the clock.
There are a couple of problems with this car.
1) RF power door lock doesn't work from inside. Turn the key in the drivers
door, all doors but the RF unlock.
2)RR window doesn't work from drivers door.
3) Won't idle cold. Will start on a click, but I need to hold the idle up
for about two minutes before car will run on it's own.

I read through the manuals and timing belt change is 60K in Severe use, what
is normal use miles for change? What beside the belt is good to change at
the same time? Average cost, in hours, for this.

What about valve adjustment? My Chilton manual (poor book) indicates shims
and buckets to adjust. Is this so? At what miles do the valves get adjusted?
Average cost, in hours, for this.

Can anybody provide some assistance on these issues? Doesn't seem like a car
with 82K should be like this, this is why I bought it!

Thanks for any help!

--

Ralph Shapiro
Rohnert Park, CA 94928


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Old 16 Oct 2006, 09:55 am   #2 (permalink)
Kurt Krueger
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Default Re: 96 Camry 2.2L

Ralph Shapiro wrote:

> Just bought this Camry with 82K on the clock.
> There are a couple of problems with this car.
> 1) RF power door lock doesn't work from inside. Turn the key in the drivers
> door, all doors but the RF unlock.
> 2)RR window doesn't work from drivers door.


Check where the wires enter the door for wear and breaks.

> 3) Won't idle cold. Will start on a click, but I need to hold the idle up
> for about two minutes before car will run on it's own.


Lot's of things. Best to get a trouble shooting chart from a good manual.
I'd suspect IAC (idle air control) if the car has one. Otherwise there should
be some kind of an air bypass that's enabled when the engine is cold.

>
> I read through the manuals and timing belt change is 60K in Severe use, what
> is normal use miles for change? What beside the belt is good to change at
> the same time? Average cost, in hours, for this.


Most folks change them at 60K regardless of how they drive. Seals, idler(s)
and water pump are often replaced at the same time. I tend to do water pump
and idlers every other timing belt. Seals only if they're leaking. Toyota
seems to do a good job at channeling seal seepage away from the timing
belt.

>
> What about valve adjustment? My Chilton manual (poor book) indicates shims
> and buckets to adjust. Is this so? At what miles do the valves get adjusted?
> Average cost, in hours, for this.


You don't want to know what the dealers charge for this. But they don't
need adjusting very often. They're easy to check. If you actually have
to replace any shims, you'll need a special tool to get them out and a
good micrometer to measure them. But there's a good chance you won't
have to replace any. Don't know about the Camry specifically, but my
'86 MR2 has 150K miles with original shims. The valve clearances have
not changed since I first measured them at 60K miles. 60K is what
MR2's up through 89 recommend. (My Camry's an '83, different engine,
non-adjustable hydraulic lifters, so I don't have any Camry specific
info).


>
> Can anybody provide some assistance on these issues? Doesn't seem like a car
> with 82K should be like this, this is why I bought it!


Check for other signs of wear. Like brake pedal rubber. Does it look right
for an 82K mile car? See if someone will do a Carfax on it.

>
> Thanks for any help!
>

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Old 16 Oct 2006, 09:35 pm   #3 (permalink)
johngdole@hotmail.com
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Default Re: 96 Camry 2.2L

Ralph Shapiro wrote:
> Just bought this Camry with 82K on the clock.
> There are a couple of problems with this car.
> 1) RF power door lock doesn't work from inside. Turn the key in the drivers
> door, all doors but the RF unlock.


If the wiring is fine, then you need to check the voltages at the lock
solenoid (motor) connector inside the door. When you operate the
switches, you should get battery voltage at the connector. If not, it's
a break in the wiring or a bad switch; otherwise it's a bad lock
solenoid assembly. You can verify by applying voltage directly. See
AutoZone's free repair guide:

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801407a0.jsp


> 2)RR window doesn't work from drivers door.


Does it work from the passenger switch? If so, wiring or switch
assembly at the driver side.


> 3) Won't idle cold. Will start on a click, but I need to hold the idle up
> for about two minutes before car will run on it's own.


It's either the notorious IAC (do a search on this) or the thermostatic
air valve. A search on the web will tell you how to test/clean these.

> I read through the manuals and timing belt change is 60K in Severe use, what
> is normal use miles for change? What beside the belt is good to change at
> the same time? Average cost, in hours, for this.


Only inspection is specified, but I don't think anybody believed that.
Regardless of 60K, 90K, 105K, etc. I'd change it at 60K. I've seen seal
seepage and water pumps leak at 50-60K, so for me all the following get
replaced. But if your pump is in good shape, you can wait until 120K.
BTW, idler pulleys only click now but get real noisy by then.

Timing belt takes about 3 hours. Seals another 1/2 hour. Pump another
1/2-1 hour (no need to change the inlet housing).

Typical parts replaced in a timing job:
(www.rockauto.com prices for 5SFE, verify your application)
GATES TCK199 (kit of timing belt with two pulleys and instruction)
$84.79
GATES Part # K030295 PS belt $4.32
GATES Part # K050435 Alt/AC $12.12
FEL-PRO TCS45641 Cam seal $4.11
FEL-PRO TCS45920 Crank seal $6.04
BCA Part # 221820 Oil pump seal $2.71
AISIN (Toyota #16110-79185) water pump $58.79 or get an AIrtex from
your local NAPA store with a lifetime warranty which I prefer.
FEL-PRO VS50304R valve cover gasket set $13.94
BECK/ARNLEY 0396428 $1.87 (PCV grommet)


> What about valve adjustment? My Chilton manual (poor book) indicates shims
> and buckets to adjust. Is this so? At what miles do the valves get adjusted?
> Average cost, in hours, for this.


You can check the clearances when you change the valve cover set and
doing the timing belt. Don't think you'd need it unless the previous
owner really horsed the car. The shim tool kit is about $10-15.

> Can anybody provide some assistance on these issues? Doesn't seem like a car
> with 82K should be like this, this is why I bought it!


That's why it's on the selling block. It's a used car.


> Thanks for any help!
>
> --
>
> Ralph Shapiro
> Rohnert Park, CA 94928


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Old 17 Oct 2006, 08:37 am   #4 (permalink)
Daniel
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Default Re: 96 Camry 2.2L

johngdole@hotmail.com wrote:

> Typical parts replaced in a timing job:

Original replacement parts are also available from Toyota.

> > What about valve adjustment?

The shim tool kit is about $10-15.
>

Source???

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Old 17 Oct 2006, 08:52 am   #5 (permalink)
Ralph Shapiro
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Default Re: 96 Camry 2.2L

Thanks for the info!
<johngdole@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1161052500.829479.158210@h48g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
> Ralph Shapiro wrote:
>> Just bought this Camry with 82K on the clock.
>> There are a couple of problems with this car.
>> 1) RF power door lock doesn't work from inside. Turn the key in the
>> drivers
>> door, all doors but the RF unlock.

>
> If the wiring is fine, then you need to check the voltages at the lock
> solenoid (motor) connector inside the door. When you operate the
> switches, you should get battery voltage at the connector. If not, it's
> a break in the wiring or a bad switch; otherwise it's a bad lock
> solenoid assembly. You can verify by applying voltage directly. See
> AutoZone's free repair guide:
>
> http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801407a0.jsp
>
>
>> 2)RR window doesn't work from drivers door.

>
> Does it work from the passenger switch? If so, wiring or switch
> assembly at the driver side.
>
>
>> 3) Won't idle cold. Will start on a click, but I need to hold the idle up
>> for about two minutes before car will run on it's own.

>
> It's either the notorious IAC (do a search on this) or the thermostatic
> air valve. A search on the web will tell you how to test/clean these.
>
>> I read through the manuals and timing belt change is 60K in Severe use,
>> what
>> is normal use miles for change? What beside the belt is good to change at
>> the same time? Average cost, in hours, for this.

>
> Only inspection is specified, but I don't think anybody believed that.
> Regardless of 60K, 90K, 105K, etc. I'd change it at 60K. I've seen seal
> seepage and water pumps leak at 50-60K, so for me all the following get
> replaced. But if your pump is in good shape, you can wait until 120K.
> BTW, idler pulleys only click now but get real noisy by then.
>
> Timing belt takes about 3 hours. Seals another 1/2 hour. Pump another
> 1/2-1 hour (no need to change the inlet housing).
>
> Typical parts replaced in a timing job:
> (www.rockauto.com prices for 5SFE, verify your application)
> GATES TCK199 (kit of timing belt with two pulleys and instruction)
> $84.79
> GATES Part # K030295 PS belt $4.32
> GATES Part # K050435 Alt/AC $12.12
> FEL-PRO TCS45641 Cam seal $4.11
> FEL-PRO TCS45920 Crank seal $6.04
> BCA Part # 221820 Oil pump seal $2.71
> AISIN (Toyota #16110-79185) water pump $58.79 or get an AIrtex from
> your local NAPA store with a lifetime warranty which I prefer.
> FEL-PRO VS50304R valve cover gasket set $13.94
> BECK/ARNLEY 0396428 $1.87 (PCV grommet)
>
>
>> What about valve adjustment? My Chilton manual (poor book) indicates
>> shims
>> and buckets to adjust. Is this so? At what miles do the valves get
>> adjusted?
>> Average cost, in hours, for this.

>
> You can check the clearances when you change the valve cover set and
> doing the timing belt. Don't think you'd need it unless the previous
> owner really horsed the car. The shim tool kit is about $10-15.
>
>> Can anybody provide some assistance on these issues? Doesn't seem like a
>> car
>> with 82K should be like this, this is why I bought it!

>
> That's why it's on the selling block. It's a used car.
>
>
>> Thanks for any help!
>>
>> --
>>
>> Ralph Shapiro
>> Rohnert Park, CA 94928

>



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Old 18 Oct 2006, 07:26 pm   #6 (permalink)
johngdole@hotmail.com
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Default Re: 96 Camry 2.2L

Daniel wrote:
> Original replacement parts are also available from Toyota.


Yeah, those dealer parts are way overpriced. I've seen Toyota seals
seep and pumps leak at 60K, so there is no advantage in using them
here.

When Toyota was having 5SFE timing belt strech problems and couldn't
figure out what was wrong, they told the techs to use Gates timing
belts only. That's a vote of confidence. Me too, Gates belts and hoses
only -- excellent products and not overpriced. I see no reason to pay
for the fancy waiting areas at the dealers, but we can still go and sit
there for free.

www.gates.com


> The shim tool kit is about $10-15.
> >

> Source???


Google "Alltrade 648829 Toyota Valve Adjustment Tool". Cheapest is
Amazon.com at $11.99.

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Old 19 Oct 2006, 08:39 am   #7 (permalink)
Daniel
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Default Re: 96 Camry 2.2L

johngdole@hotmail.com wrote:
>
> > The shim tool kit is about $10-15.
> > >

> > Source???

>
> Google "Alltrade 648829 Toyota Valve Adjustment Tool". Cheapest is
> Amazon.com at $11.99.

===========================
Appreciate the reference, but the review on Amazon states:

It simply does not work on my 1994 2.2L Camry. The pliers are too small
to go around the lobe and then compress the lifter. The description
should be clear on what models are supported.

----------------------------
While I realize adjustment is rare, and later models actually
eliminated the shims in favor of one piece replaceable lifters, I
though I once saw someone posting that they were able to lever down the
lifter with the edge of a screwdriver sufficiently to access and remove
the shim.

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Old 20 Oct 2006, 09:57 pm   #8 (permalink)
johngdole@hotmail.com
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Default Re: 96 Camry 2.2L

The Alltrade web site does not list the exact application, but Amazon
lists "For Shim Over Bucket type valve adjustment". There are other
makes that cost more, but pictures do not show size differences among
these tools, if any.

For example, Schley Products Inc's SCH88250, costs $27.94 on
www.sjdiscounttools.com/sch88250.html and $39.02 on Amazon.com says the
tool works on "most Toyota's overhead camshaft engines using spacer
shims" but does not work with the 4.5L inline-6 used on Land Cruiser
and Lexus LX400.

So Schley can clarify if your 5SFE is among "most Toyota's overhead
camshaft engines using spacer shims".


"This unique tool has been designed to allow for easy valve adjustment
on most Toyota's overhead camshaft engines using spacer shims for valve
adjustment. In operation, the tip of the pliers pushes between the
spacer shim and the camshafts the pliers are squeezed close. This
action then moves the shim and its valve lifter down away from the
camshaft lobe. In this down position the separate wedge tool is placed
between the valve lifter ledge and the camshaft. This wedge tool then
maintains a gap between the shim and the camshaft as the pliers are
removed. The spacer shim can then be removed through this gap and
replaced withone of the correct thickness. Made from quality heat
treated alloy steel, this tool comes as a set with pliers and spacer
wedge. Does not work with LandCruiser 1993-1997 and Lexus LX400
1994-1997."


Daniel wrote:
> > Google "Alltrade 648829 Toyota Valve Adjustment Tool". Cheapest is
> > Amazon.com at $11.99.

> ===========================
> Appreciate the reference, but the review on Amazon states:
>
> It simply does not work on my 1994 2.2L Camry. The pliers are too small
> to go around the lobe and then compress the lifter. The description
> should be clear on what models are supported.
>
> ----------------------------
> While I realize adjustment is rare, and later models actually
> eliminated the shims in favor of one piece replaceable lifters, I
> though I once saw someone posting that they were able to lever down the
> lifter with the edge of a screwdriver sufficiently to access and remove
> the shim.


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Old 20 Oct 2006, 10:22 pm   #9 (permalink)
johngdole@hotmail.com
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Default Re: 96 Camry 2.2L


Daniel wrote:
> It simply does not work on my 1994 2.2L Camry. The pliers are too small
> to go around the lobe and then compress the lifter. The description
> should be clear on what models are supported.


BTW, I wonder if this owner actually tried to place the plier around
the LOBE instead of the cam shaft right next to the lobe. The plier
doesn't press down on the shim itself, but the bucket surrounding the
shim.

> While I realize adjustment is rare, and later models actually
> eliminated the shims in favor of one piece replaceable lifters, I
> though I once saw someone posting that they were able to lever down the
> lifter with the edge of a screwdriver sufficiently to access and remove
> the shim.


Yeah, I think any tool that will press down on the bucket surrounding
the shim should work. Never tried it because the clearances were fine.

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