That's exactly what happened to an old BMW I had
Bought it cheap as
a pig in a poke because it had an exhaust leak. Fixed the exhaust, oh
no, it's still making noise. A high speed road trip to Pittsburgh and
back finished it off - it spun a bearing the next morning when I tried
to go to work
fortunately there was a junkyard that had a good used
BMW 3.5 for a semi-affordable price... ended up selling the car anyway
when I moved to VA because the suspension was a bit questionable (200K
miles) and while it theoretically was worth fixing, I couldn't afford it
- especially after laying out the cash for a new engine.
That's not meant as a knock on BMWs though - the thing had 200K miles on
it when I bought it; the appeal was the surprisingly rust free body,
nice interior, and low price - not many cars are worth anything at all
after that many miles. (I did however have an old VW with even more
miles that I regret selling to this day - that sucker was strong and
never let me down. And I did rebuild the suspension on that one,
because the parts were actually within the reach of your average car guy.)
nate
On 11/22/2011 07:37 PM, uncle_vito wrote:
> I will seize real quick when the bearing hammers itself apart and the rod
> separates from the crank. You know things will get jammed up real fast.
>
>
> "jim beam"<me@privacy.net> wrote in message
> news:jacjj2$i3m$1@speranza.aioe.org...
>> On 11/20/2011 12:48 PM, uncle_vito wrote:
>>> The fact that he has more than ZERO oil pressure means that bearing
>>> damage
>>> may be limited. He may as well drive it with the thick oil. If major
>>> bearing damage, the engine would not even run, or would self destruct in
>>> a
>>> few miles with bearings seizing.
>>
>> b.s. engines run real well with bearing damage. it's just that most
>> people stop driving because they can't stand the noise - but the motor
>> will continue to operate well beyond that point. and bearings rarely
>> actually seize. if an engine seizes, it's because lack of oil has welded
>> piston rings to the cylinder wall, not anything to do with bearings.
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I had some experience rebuilding a '69 427 engine in 1996. Oil pressure
>>> was
>>> low and some metal was seen in the pan. Engine ran OK but I was a
>>> perfectionist. All bearings were seen with wiped areas where the babbit
>>> was
>>> removed and copper showed. No down to the steel yet but that case would
>>> be
>>> only for catastrophic failure.
>>>
>>> I also bought for cheap an 82 Camaro with the 2.8L V-6. Previous owner
>>> had
>>> not changed the oil. All insides were jelled. I did not rebuild but
>>> thoroughly flushed the engine and scraped out jelled oil from the rocker
>>> area. Engine ran fine for years. Always had low oil pressure. Traded
>>> car
>>> in when we were done.
>>>
>>>
>>> "Scott Dorsey"<kludge@panix.com> wrote in message
>>> news:jab9o3$cp5$1@panix2.panix.com...
>>>> uncle_vito<uncle_vito2002@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>>> One other comment is to use straight 40 weight oil to compensate for
>>>>> your
>>>>> damaged bearings. 20W50 is still on the thin side.
>>>>
>>>> It's worth trying. The worst you can do is wreck the engine bearings
>>>> which are already wrecked.
>>>>
>>>> "Just keep driving it, when it doesn't run anymore, that's when you need
>>>> a rebuild" -- My dad
>>>>
>>>> Problem with the thick oil is that it doesn't flow as well through the
>>>> pump.
>>>> I know folks who swear by Rislone for increasing viscosity at high
>>>> temperatures
>>>> without increasing it at lower temperatures. I'm kind of skeptical, but
>>>> you
>>>> can try it and it doesn't cost much.
>>>> --scott
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> nomina rutrum rutrum
>
>
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Re: Low oil pressure after overheat and low oil condition
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