2010 Prius III fuel efficiency hypermiling results

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Old 21 Aug 2010, 10:51 am   #1 (permalink)
Neo
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Default 2010 Prius III fuel efficiency hypermiling results

I purchased a 2010 Prius III in April 2010. I've been trying out a
variety of hypermiling techniques on it since then and I have
purchased a Scan gauge II recently to refine those techniques.

On short 15 mile summer runs the MFD says that the Prius has gotten
about 81 mpg; however, the MFD FE computations tends to over estimated
the mpg by 3 to 5 mpg so the FE is probably closer to 75 mpg.
The overall mileage between tank fill ups (usually about 9 gallons or
every 500 miles or so) is much less.
On these extended distances, the 2010 Prius computed mpg has been as
low as 52 mpg and has high as 64 mpg with the average overall mpg to
be around 60 mpg.


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Old 28 Aug 2010, 12:19 pm   #2 (permalink)
Neo
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Default Re: 2010 Prius III fuel efficiency hypermiling results

On Aug 21, 11:51*am, Neo <residualselfimage1...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I purchased a 2010 Prius III in April 2010. *I've been trying out a
> variety of hypermiling techniques on it since then and I have
> purchased a Scan gauge II recently to refine those techniques.
>
> On short 15 mile summer runs the MFD *says that the Prius has gotten
> about 81 mpg; however, the MFD FE computations tends to over estimated
> the mpg by 3 to 5 mpg so the FE is probably closer to 75 mpg.
> The overall mileage between tank fill ups (usually about 9 gallons or
> every 500 miles or so) is much less.
> On these extended distances, the 2010 Prius computed mpg has been as
> low as 52 mpg *and has high as 64 mpg with the average overall mpg to
> be around 60 mpg.


After 578 miles, on my last fillup I computed that the
2010 Prius was getting 61.8 mpg (the MFD estimate was 65.5 mpg).

I finally got to checking the tire pressure
and the tire pressure was too low.
All four tires were at 30psi, Toyota specs the
front tires at 35psi and the rear tires at 33psi.
The OEM Yokohama tires are rated for a maximum
of 40psi. Many on PriusChat were saying they
had set the front tires at 40psi and the rear
tires at 38 psi. The 5psi over the the official
recommend psi level is suppose to increase
FE without causing problems in handling and
tire wear. I am a bit worried of setting the front
tires at their max psi ratting so I set all four
tires at 38psi.

I just installed a Scan Gauge II on the 2010 Prius. The
most useful gauge is the instantaneous MPG and the
RPM. The Instantaneous MPG shows a finer level of
detail than the Prius's MPG bar chart. It is useful to
monitor the RPM to see how hard the ICE is working.
The AVG (average mpg) seems to output the same
number as the Prius average MPG display.

With the scan gauge II and the higher
tire pressure, I hope to improve my FE
score will improve.


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Old 24 Sep 2010, 07:01 pm   #3 (permalink)
Neo
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Default Re: 2010 Prius III fuel efficiency hypermiling results

On Aug 28, 1:19*pm, Neo <residualselfimage1...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Aug 21, 11:51*am, Neo <residualselfimage1...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I purchased a 2010 Prius III in April 2010. *I've been trying out a
> > variety of hypermiling techniques on it since then and I have
> > purchased a Scan gauge II recently to refine those techniques.

>
> > On short 15 mile summer runs the MFD *says that the Prius has gotten
> > about 81 mpg; however, the MFD FE computations tends to over estimated
> > the mpg by 3 to 5 mpg so the FE is probably closer to 75 mpg.
> > The overall mileage between tank fill ups (usually about 9 gallons or
> > every 500 miles or so) is much less.
> > On these extended distances, the 2010 Prius computed mpg has been as
> > low as 52 mpg *and has high as 64 mpg with the average overall mpg to
> > be around 60 mpg.

>
> After 578 miles, on my last fillup I computed that the
> 2010 Prius was getting *61.8 mpg (the MFD estimate was 65.5 mpg).
>
> I finally got to checking the tire pressure
> and the tire pressure was too low.
> All four tires were at 30psi, Toyota specs the
> front tires at 35psi and the rear tires at 33psi.
> The OEM Yokohama tires are rated for a maximum
> of 40psi. Many on PriusChat *were saying they
> had set the front tires at 40psi and the rear
> tires at 38 psi. The 5psi over the the official
> recommend psi level is suppose to increase
> FE without causing problems in handling and
> tire wear. I am a bit worried of setting the front
> tires at their max psi ratting so *I set all four
> tires at 38psi.
>
> I just installed a Scan Gauge II on the 2010 Prius. The
> most useful gauge is the instantaneous MPG and the
> RPM. The Instantaneous MPG shows a finer level of
> detail than the Prius's MPG bar chart. *It is useful to
> monitor the RPM to see how hard the ICE is working.
> The AVG (average mpg) seems to output the same
> number as the Prius average MPG display.
>
> With the scan gauge II and the higher
> tire pressure, I hope to improve my FE
> score will improve.



I've raised the tire pressures to 40psi front and
38 psi rear. Even with the scanguage II - it is still
difficult to get the car's computer FE display to
register higher than 67 mpg over 200 miles.
(my actual top mpg during the summer is
probably slightly under 64 mpg). I suspect that
with better LLR tires, Michelin E/S, the mpg
could be improved by 2 or 3 mpg.

Getting FE higher than 67 mpg appears to
depends on finding a better route and given
the traffic pattern. To optimize hypermiling
a commuting route need to have atleast two lanes in
one direction(so other car can past you),
have very few stop signs and traffic lights
(so you could maintain the vehicle's momentum
as long as possible), be relatively flat
over a long distance(so energy would not
have to be expended going uphill in
either direction) , have a smooth road
surface (to extend the coasting time of
the car), and allow the car to go between
35 mph to 45 mph without impeding
the general traffic flow( which is the optimum
speed for the maximum fuel efficiency of
the vehicle)..
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Old 25 Oct 2010, 06:34 pm   #4 (permalink)
Neo
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Default Re: 2010 Prius III fuel efficiency hypermiling results

On Sep 24, 8:01*pm, Neo <residualselfimage1...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Aug 28, 1:19*pm, Neo <residualselfimage1...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Aug 21, 11:51*am, Neo <residualselfimage1...@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> > > I purchased a 2010 Prius III in April 2010. *I've been trying out a
> > > variety of hypermiling techniques on it since then and I have
> > > purchased a Scan gauge II recently to refine those techniques.

>
> > > On short 15 mile summer runs the MFD *says that the Prius has gotten
> > > about 81 mpg; however, the MFD FE computations tends to over estimated
> > > the mpg by 3 to 5 mpg so the FE is probably closer to 75 mpg.
> > > The overall mileage between tank fill ups (usually about 9 gallons or
> > > every 500 miles or so) is much less.
> > > On these extended distances, the 2010 Prius computed mpg has been as
> > > low as 52 mpg *and has high as 64 mpg with the average overall mpg to
> > > be around 60 mpg.

>
> > After 578 miles, on my last fillup I computed that the
> > 2010 Prius was getting *61.8 mpg (the MFD estimate was 65.5 mpg).

>
> > I finally got to checking the tire pressure
> > and the tire pressure was too low.
> > All four tires were at 30psi, Toyota specs the
> > front tires at 35psi and the rear tires at 33psi.
> > The OEM Yokohama tires are rated for a maximum
> > of 40psi. Many on PriusChat *were saying they
> > had set the front tires at 40psi and the rear
> > tires at 38 psi. The 5psi over the the official
> > recommend psi level is suppose to increase
> > FE without causing problems in handling and
> > tire wear. I am a bit worried of setting the front
> > tires at their max psi ratting so *I set all four
> > tires at 38psi.

>
> > I just installed a Scan Gauge II on the 2010 Prius. The
> > most useful gauge is the instantaneous MPG and the
> > RPM. The Instantaneous MPG shows a finer level of
> > detail than the Prius's MPG bar chart. *It is useful to
> > monitor the RPM to see how hard the ICE is working.
> > The AVG (average mpg) seems to output the same
> > number as the Prius average MPG display.

>
> > With the scan gauge II and the higher
> > tire pressure, I hope to improve my FE
> > score will improve.

>
> I've raised the tire pressures to 40psi front and
> 38 psi rear. Even with the scanguage II - it is still
> difficult to get the car's computer FE display to
> register higher than 67 mpg over 200 miles.
> (my actual top mpg during the summer is
> probably slightly under 64 mpg). I suspect that
> with better LLR tires, Michelin E/S, *the mpg
> could be improved by 2 or 3 mpg.
>
> Getting FE higher than 67 mpg appears to
> depends on finding a better route and given
> the traffic pattern. To optimize hypermiling
> a commuting route need to have atleast two lanes in
> one direction(so other car can past you),
> have very few stop signs and traffic lights
> (so you could maintain the vehicle's momentum
> as long as possible), *be relatively flat
> over a long distance(so energy would not
> have *to be expended going uphill in
> either direction) , have a smooth road
> surface (to extend the coasting time of
> the car), and allow the car to go between
> 35 mph to 45 mph without impeding
> the general traffic flow( which is the optimum
> speed for the maximum fuel efficiency of
> the vehicle)..-



The Scangauge II on my Prius has indicated
that I was able to achieve over 55 miles per gallon
by using Plus and Glide(P&G) cycle on a smooth road
with slightly hilly terrain. This technique involves briefly
accelerating (> 2000 rpm ) to achieve 45 mph and then
pulling back on the accelerattor so that the HSI is
in the middle of the ECO bar ( about 1200 RPM) and
allowing the speed of the Prius to decrease to around 33
mph before attempting to repeat the .P&G cycle all over again.


This technique feels strange at first since the results
are better than if one attempts to maintain
a constant lower speed (35 mph) and allow
the car to decrease its speed slightly(26 mpg) over
the same route. While the ICE burns
more gas during acceleration if the time of
the acceleration burst is kept very short it
could burn less gas than if the ICE is kept
running at a lower but uniform burn rate
over the same amount of time. The Prius
because it is very heavy maintains its speed
due to the kinetic/stored potential energy created
during the acceleration. The trick is to avoid reaching
a top speed that is faster than necessary. The top
speed should not be any faster that the speed
it would take so that if the Prius had to come
to a full stop that by letting go of the accelerator
one would have enough distance in front of the
Prius so it could to coast to a stop. This is
not practical in urban driving so a compromise
top speed needs to be selected for a given section
of a well know route. Knowing a good top speed
for a section of road is key to obtaining the best
FE results from a P&G cycle. Once the top desired speed has
been achived- the driver drops the speed of Prius ICE
to its most efficient mode which is indicated by being
at the center or slightly right of the center of the ECO
bar in the HSI indicator display OR the driver run the
Prius only on the electric motors by pressing the accelerator so
that HSI indicator bar is on the left side of the ECO.


2010 Prius III, Yokohama Avid S33 (40psi front, 38psi rear), Scangauge
II
current MPG (fcd) = 65 mpg
Overall computer MPG = 60 mpg, 5400 miles


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Old 10 Nov 2010, 07:22 am   #5 (permalink)
Neo
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Default Re: 2010 Prius III fuel efficiency hypermiling results

On Oct 25, 6:34*pm, Neo <residualselfimage1...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Sep 24, 8:01*pm, Neo <residualselfimage1...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Aug 28, 1:19*pm, Neo <residualselfimage1...@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> > > On Aug 21, 11:51*am, Neo <residualselfimage1...@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> > > > I purchased a 2010 Prius III in April 2010. *I've been trying outa
> > > > variety of hypermiling techniques on it since then and I have
> > > > purchased a Scan gauge II recently to refine those techniques.

>
> > > > On short 15 mile summer runs the MFD *says that the Prius has gotten
> > > > about 81 mpg; however, the MFD FE computations tends to over estimated
> > > > the mpg by 3 to 5 mpg so the FE is probably closer to 75 mpg.
> > > > The overall mileage between tank fill ups (usually about 9 gallons or
> > > > every 500 miles or so) is much less.
> > > > On these extended distances, the 2010 Prius computed mpg has been as
> > > > low as 52 mpg *and has high as 64 mpg with the average overall mpg to
> > > > be around 60 mpg.

>
> > > After 578 miles, on my last fillup I computed that the
> > > 2010 Prius was getting *61.8 mpg (the MFD estimate was 65.5 mpg).

>
> > > I finally got to checking the tire pressure
> > > and the tire pressure was too low.
> > > All four tires were at 30psi, Toyota specs the
> > > front tires at 35psi and the rear tires at 33psi.
> > > The OEM Yokohama tires are rated for a maximum
> > > of 40psi. Many on PriusChat *were saying they
> > > had set the front tires at 40psi and the rear
> > > tires at 38 psi. The 5psi over the the official
> > > recommend psi level is suppose to increase
> > > FE without causing problems in handling and
> > > tire wear. I am a bit worried of setting the front
> > > tires at their max psi ratting so *I set all four
> > > tires at 38psi.

>
> > > I just installed a Scan Gauge II on the 2010 Prius. The
> > > most useful gauge is the instantaneous MPG and the
> > > RPM. The Instantaneous MPG shows a finer level of
> > > detail than the Prius's MPG bar chart. *It is useful to
> > > monitor the RPM to see how hard the ICE is working.
> > > The AVG (average mpg) seems to output the same
> > > number as the Prius average MPG display.

>
> > > With the scan gauge II and the higher
> > > tire pressure, I hope to improve my FE
> > > score will improve.

>
> > I've raised the tire pressures to 40psi front and
> > 38 psi rear. Even with the scanguage II - it is still
> > difficult to get the car's computer FE display to
> > register higher than 67 mpg over 200 miles.
> > (my actual top mpg during the summer is
> > probably slightly under 64 mpg). I suspect that
> > with better LLR tires, Michelin E/S, *the mpg
> > could be improved by 2 or 3 mpg.

>
> > Getting FE higher than 67 mpg appears to
> > depends on finding a better route and given
> > the traffic pattern. To optimize hypermiling
> > a commuting route need to have atleast two lanes in
> > one direction(so other car can past you),
> > have very few stop signs and traffic lights
> > (so you could maintain the vehicle's momentum
> > as long as possible), *be relatively flat
> > over a long distance(so energy would not
> > have *to be expended going uphill in
> > either direction) , have a smooth road
> > surface (to extend the coasting time of
> > the car), and allow the car to go between
> > 35 mph to 45 mph without impeding
> > the general traffic flow( which is the optimum
> > speed for the maximum fuel efficiency of
> > the vehicle)..-

>
> The Scangauge II on my Prius has indicated
> that I was able to achieve over 55 miles per gallon
> by using Plus and Glide(P&G) cycle on a smooth road
> with slightly hilly terrain. This technique involves briefly
> accelerating (> 2000 rpm ) to achieve *45 mph and then
> pulling back on the accelerattor so that the HSI is
> in the middle of the ECO bar ( about 1200 RPM) and
> allowing the speed of the Prius to decrease to around 33
> mph before attempting to repeat *the .P&G cycle all over again.
>
> This technique feels strange at first since the results
> are better than if one attempts to maintain
> a constant lower speed (35 mph) and allow
> the car to decrease its speed slightly(26 mpg) *over
> the same route. * While the ICE burns
> more gas during acceleration if the time of
> the acceleration burst is kept very short it
> could burn less gas than if the ICE is kept
> running at a lower but uniform burn rate
> over the same amount of time. The Prius
> because it is very heavy maintains its speed
> due *to the kinetic/stored potential energy created
> during the acceleration. The trick is to avoid reaching
> a top speed that is faster than necessary. The top
> speed should not be any faster that the speed
> it would take so that if the Prius had to come
> to a full stop that by letting go of the accelerator
> one would have enough distance in front of the
> Prius so it could to coast to a stop. *This is
> not practical in urban driving so a compromise
> top speed needs to be *selected for a given section
> of a well know route. Knowing a good top speed
> for a section of road is key to obtaining the best
> FE results from a P&G cycle. Once the top desired speed has
> been achived- *the driver drops the speed of Prius ICE
> to its most efficient mode which is indicated by being
> at the center or slightly right of the center of the ECO
> bar in the HSI indicator display OR the driver run the
> Prius only on the electric motors by pressing the accelerator so
> that HSI indicator bar is on the left side of the ECO.
>
> 2010 Prius III, Yokohama Avid S33 (40psi front, 38psi rear),
> Scangauge II
> current MPG (fcd) = 65 mpg
> Overall computer MPG = 60 mpg, 5400 miles



Colder temperature and the switch over to the winter fuel
blend of gasoline has cause the fuel mileage on the last tank
of gas ( +9 gallons, 540 miles, 58 mpg ) tp drop about 2 mpg.
The sudden drop in temperature and bad weather has made
it more problematic to maintain the tire pressure at
42 psi front and 40 psi rear. A drop in just one or two psi
will lower the coasting ability of the Prius and cause the
MPG to drop - so I've increased the tire pressure to 44 psi
front and 42 psi rear. The drop from 70F-50F to 40F-30F
temperature range forces the ICE to burn gas to warm up
the engine/catelytic converter (or recharge the battery) more
often -- after a full warmup cycle the overall mileage(AVG)
on the Scangauge II drops by about 3 to 5 mpg.

I tested a sub-route with no stop signs or lights but
with many steep short hills verses my usually sub-route
with a few stop lights and only a few less steep long hills.
( Georgia/Norbeck vs Georgia/Muncaster/Redland)
When subtracting traffic factor (by driving when
nobody is using the road) it is easier to hypermile/coast
on roads that have fewer longer flatter grade hills
than if the roads have many shorter steeper grade
hills - if there are only a few stop lights that are
easily seen from a distance the driver can
alter the car's speed to "time" the car so it does
not have to stop at the light (thus conserving the
car's momentum) so thus there does not have to be
a penalty for having traffic lights. However the penalty
for multiple steep hills is fixed. The penalty for using a
route with many more steeper hills was about a lost of
5 mpg. Essentially the shorter and steeper the
road grade is the more difficult it is to get the
downhill MPG gain to overcome the uphill MPG
loss. When driving through multiple short steep
hills without stopping one must maximize the MPG
at each downhill grade to mitigate MPG losses from
going up each uphill grade. A short burst of power
at the very top of the hill is more useful in gaining
speed and momentum ( to go help going up the
next hill) than applying the power at the bottom
of the hill. To get the best MPG, the uphill speed
must be allowed to drop as the car goes up the
peak of the hill - attempting to accelerate or
maintaining the cars speed uphill will case the
MPG to drop. How far one can allows the MPG
is heavily dependent on traffic conditions.
Because the Prius is very heavy and its
power to weight ratio is not all that high -
FE suffers more during low speed acceleration
and uphill climbing than if it were lighter
car or a car with a more powerful ICE/MG.
combination.

As the winter approaches - I am investigating
blocking the front air intakes to help the ICE stay warm.
This requires monitoring the coolant temperature (FWT)
so that the engine does not over heat.



2010 Prius III, Yokohama Avid S33 (44psi front, 42psi rear),
Scangauge II ( RPM, MPG, FWT, AVG)
current MPG (fcd) = 60 mpg
Overall estimated MPG = 60 mpg, 5700 miles







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Old 12 Nov 2010, 12:13 am   #6 (permalink)
Bruce Richmond
Guest
  • Posts: n/a
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Default Re: 2010 Prius III fuel efficiency hypermiling results

On Nov 10, 8:22*am, Neo <residualselfimage1...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Oct 25, 6:34*pm, Neo <residualselfimage1...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Sep 24, 8:01*pm, Neo <residualselfimage1...@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> > > On Aug 28, 1:19*pm, Neo <residualselfimage1...@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> > > > On Aug 21, 11:51*am, Neo <residualselfimage1...@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> > > > > I purchased a 2010 Prius III in April 2010. *I've been trying out a
> > > > > variety of hypermiling techniques on it since then and I have
> > > > > purchased a Scan gauge II recently to refine those techniques.

>
> > > > > On short 15 mile summer runs the MFD *says that the Prius has gotten
> > > > > about 81 mpg; however, the MFD FE computations tends to over estimated
> > > > > the mpg by 3 to 5 mpg so the FE is probably closer to 75 mpg.
> > > > > The overall mileage between tank fill ups (usually about 9 gallons or
> > > > > every 500 miles or so) is much less.
> > > > > On these extended distances, the 2010 Prius computed mpg has beenas
> > > > > low as 52 mpg *and has high as 64 mpg with the average overall mpg to
> > > > > be around 60 mpg.

>
> > > > After 578 miles, on my last fillup I computed that the
> > > > 2010 Prius was getting *61.8 mpg (the MFD estimate was 65.5 mpg).

>
> > > > I finally got to checking the tire pressure
> > > > and the tire pressure was too low.
> > > > All four tires were at 30psi, Toyota specs the
> > > > front tires at 35psi and the rear tires at 33psi.
> > > > The OEM Yokohama tires are rated for a maximum
> > > > of 40psi. Many on PriusChat *were saying they
> > > > had set the front tires at 40psi and the rear
> > > > tires at 38 psi. The 5psi over the the official
> > > > recommend psi level is suppose to increase
> > > > FE without causing problems in handling and
> > > > tire wear. I am a bit worried of setting the front
> > > > tires at their max psi ratting so *I set all four
> > > > tires at 38psi.

>
> > > > I just installed a Scan Gauge II on the 2010 Prius. The
> > > > most useful gauge is the instantaneous MPG and the
> > > > RPM. The Instantaneous MPG shows a finer level of
> > > > detail than the Prius's MPG bar chart. *It is useful to
> > > > monitor the RPM to see how hard the ICE is working.
> > > > The AVG (average mpg) seems to output the same
> > > > number as the Prius average MPG display.

>
> > > > With the scan gauge II and the higher
> > > > tire pressure, I hope to improve my FE
> > > > score will improve.

>
> > > I've raised the tire pressures to 40psi front and
> > > 38 psi rear. Even with the scanguage II - it is still
> > > difficult to get the car's computer FE display to
> > > register higher than 67 mpg over 200 miles.
> > > (my actual top mpg during the summer is
> > > probably slightly under 64 mpg). I suspect that
> > > with better LLR tires, Michelin E/S, *the mpg
> > > could be improved by 2 or 3 mpg.

>
> > > Getting FE higher than 67 mpg appears to
> > > depends on finding a better route and given
> > > the traffic pattern. To optimize hypermiling
> > > a commuting route need to have atleast two lanes in
> > > one direction(so other car can past you),
> > > have very few stop signs and traffic lights
> > > (so you could maintain the vehicle's momentum
> > > as long as possible), *be relatively flat
> > > over a long distance(so energy would not
> > > have *to be expended going uphill in
> > > either direction) , have a smooth road
> > > surface (to extend the coasting time of
> > > the car), and allow the car to go between
> > > 35 mph to 45 mph without impeding
> > > the general traffic flow( which is the optimum
> > > speed for the maximum fuel efficiency of
> > > the vehicle)..-

>
> > The Scangauge II on my Prius has indicated
> > that I was able to achieve over 55 miles per gallon
> > by using Plus and Glide(P&G) cycle on a smooth road
> > with slightly hilly terrain. This technique involves briefly
> > accelerating (> 2000 rpm ) to achieve *45 mph and then
> > pulling back on the accelerattor so that the HSI is
> > in the middle of the ECO bar ( about 1200 RPM) and
> > allowing the speed of the Prius to decrease to around 33
> > mph before attempting to repeat *the .P&G cycle all over again.

>
> > This technique feels strange at first since the results
> > are better than if one attempts to maintain
> > a constant lower speed (35 mph) and allow
> > the car to decrease its speed slightly(26 mpg) *over
> > the same route. * While the ICE burns
> > more gas during acceleration if the time of
> > the acceleration burst is kept very short it
> > could burn less gas than if the ICE is kept
> > running at a lower but uniform burn rate
> > over the same amount of time. The Prius
> > because it is very heavy maintains its speed
> > due *to the kinetic/stored potential energy created
> > during the acceleration. The trick is to avoid reaching
> > a top speed that is faster than necessary. The top
> > speed should not be any faster that the speed
> > it would take so that if the Prius had to come
> > to a full stop that by letting go of the accelerator
> > one would have enough distance in front of the
> > Prius so it could to coast to a stop. *This is
> > not practical in urban driving so a compromise
> > top speed needs to be *selected for a given section
> > of a well know route. Knowing a good top speed
> > for a section of road is key to obtaining the best
> > FE results from a P&G cycle. Once the top desired speed has
> > been achived- *the driver drops the speed of Prius ICE
> > to its most efficient mode which is indicated by being
> > at the center or slightly right of the center of the ECO
> > bar in the HSI indicator display OR the driver run the
> > Prius only on the electric motors by pressing the accelerator so
> > that HSI indicator bar is on the left side of the ECO.

>
> > 2010 Prius III, Yokohama Avid S33 (40psi front, 38psi rear),
> > *Scangauge II
> > current MPG (fcd) = 65 mpg
> > Overall computer MPG = 60 mpg, 5400 miles

>
> Colder temperature and the switch over to the winter fuel
> blend of gasoline has cause the fuel mileage on the last tank
> of gas ( +9 gallons, 540 miles, 58 mpg ) tp drop about 2 mpg.
> The sudden drop in temperature and bad weather has made
> it more problematic to maintain the tire pressure at
> 42 psi front and 40 psi rear. *A drop in just one or two psi
> will lower the coasting ability of the Prius and cause the
> MPG to drop - so I've increased the tire pressure to 44 psi
> front and 42 psi rear. *The drop from 70F-50F to 40F-30F
> temperature range forces the ICE to burn gas to warm up
> the engine/catelytic converter (or recharge the battery) more
> often -- after a full warmup cycle the overall mileage(AVG)
> on the Scangauge II drops by about 3 to 5 mpg.
>
> I tested a sub-route with no stop signs or lights but
> with many steep short hills verses my usually sub-route
> with a few stop lights and only a few less steep long hills.
> ( Georgia/Norbeck vs Georgia/Muncaster/Redland)
> When subtracting traffic factor (by driving when
> nobody is using the road) *it is easier to hypermile/coast
> on roads that have fewer longer flatter grade hills
> than if the roads have many shorter steeper grade
> hills - if there are only a few stop lights that are
> easily seen from a distance the *driver can
> alter the car's speed to "time" the car so it does
> not have to stop at the light (thus conserving the
> car's momentum) so thus there does not have to be
> a penalty for having traffic lights. However the penalty
> for multiple steep hills is fixed. The penalty for using a
> route with many more steeper hills was about a lost of
> 5 mpg. Essentially the shorter and steeper the
> road grade is the more difficult it is to get the
> downhill MPG gain to overcome the uphill MPG
> loss. When driving through multiple short steep
> hills without stopping *one must maximize the MPG
> at each downhill grade to mitigate MPG losses from
> going up each uphill grade. A short burst of power
> at the very top of the hill is more useful *in gaining
> speed and momentum ( to go help going up the
> next hill) than applying the power at the bottom
> of the hill. To get the best MPG, *the uphill speed
> must be allowed to drop as the car goes up the
> peak of the hill - attempting to accelerate or
> maintaining the cars speed uphill will case the
> MPG to drop. *How far one can allows the MPG
> is heavily dependent on traffic conditions.
> Because the Prius is very heavy and its
> power to weight ratio is not all that high -
> FE suffers more during low speed acceleration
> and uphill *climbing than if it were lighter
> car or a car with a more powerful ICE/MG.
> combination.
>
> As the winter approaches - I am investigating
> blocking the front air intakes to help the ICE stay warm.
> This requires monitoring the coolant temperature (FWT)
> so that the engine does not over heat.


Blocking off the lower openings on my 2001 Prius allowed it to warm up
in about half the time, increasing my avg mpg by about 4 mpg doing
mostly 11 mile trips.

Tire pressure can also make a big difference. Going from 35 to 45
gained about 5 mpg. Cold temps will lower the pressure. Keep
checking as it gets colder. I am currently running 50 psi all
around. Good for maybe 2 mpg better than 45 psi.

Went from running 5w-30 Mobil 1 oil to 0w-30. Will be trying 0w-20 at
next change in about a month. Should help mpg with the cold weather.
Car starts fine in the cold (sub zero F)even with 5w-30.

> 2010 Prius III, Yokohama Avid S33 (44psi front, 42psi rear),
> Scangauge II ( RPM, MPG, FWT, AVG)
> current MPG (fcd) = 60 mpg
> Overall estimated MPG = 60 mpg, 5700 miles- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


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Old 25 Nov 2010, 02:41 pm   #7 (permalink)
Neo
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Default Re: 2010 Prius III fuel efficiency hypermiling results

On Nov 12, 1:13*am, Bruce Richmond <bsr3...@my-deja.com> wrote:
> Blocking off the lower openings on my 2001 Prius allowed it to warm up
> in about half the time, increasing my avg mpg by about 4 mpg doing
> mostly 11 mile trips.
>
> Tire pressure can also make a big difference. *Going from 35 to 45
> gained about 5 mpg. *Cold temps will lower the pressure. *Keep
> checking as it gets colder. *I am currently running 50 psi all
> around. *Good for maybe 2 mpg better than 45 psi.
>
> Went from running 5w-30 Mobil 1 oil to 0w-30. *Will be trying 0w-20 at
> next change in about a month. *Should help mpg with the cold weather.
> Car starts fine in the cold (sub zero F)even with 5w-30.



In the last four weeks the average temperature has dropped
about 20 degrees Fahrenheit and the fuel efficiency of my
2010 Toyota Prius III has dropped from 62 mpg to 58 mpg.
When the temperature drops from 60 F to 40 F the mpg
drops about 10 mpg using the same route w/ hypermiling
techniques in approximately the same driving conditions
- the reason it seems is that in stop and go slow urban
driving conditions the 1010 Prius ICE must run more often
to warmup the coolant/emission devices. To try to boost
FE - I am implementing the last hypermiling trick I know
- grill blocking. I am blocking the the lower grill by 100%
and I will monitor the coolant temperature via the Scangauge
II. The objective is to make sure the ICE stays warmer and
thus has to run less frequently to keep the coolant
and emission device warm.


While some tires have a max psi rating of 50 psi,
the Yokohama Avid S33 has a maximum tire
pressure of only 44 psi so I've avoided increasing the
tire pressure any further than 44 psi (at least for now)..



2010 Prius III, Blue Ribbon/Dark Grey
Yokohama Avid S33 (44psi front, 42psi rear) <== hypermiler mod #1,
Scangauge II ( RPM, MPG, FWT, AVG) <== hypermiler mod#2
OEM floormats
lower grill blocked 100% <== hypermiler mod#3
upper grill unblocked


DC/MD/VA metro area
worst MPG (550 miles) = 54. mpg
best MPG (300 miles,) =66 mpg
current MPG (fcd) = 58 mpg
Overall estimated MPG = 59 mpg, 6300 miles


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Old 07 Dec 2010, 09:13 pm   #8 (permalink)
Neo
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Default Re: 2010 Prius III fuel efficiency hypermiling results

The temperature in the Washington DC Area has dropped
down to a high of 40 F degrees to a low of 28 F degrees.
Fuel efficiency on my 2010 Toyota Prius III droped down
to an average of 55 mpg for a oneway 12 mile commute
- this is down from an average of 65 mpg for the same
12 mile commute during the summer time. The problem
is not with the tire's rolling resistance (tire pressures is
44 psi in front and 42 psi in the rear) but with the lower
power performance from both the ICE and MG during
the colder temperatures. Also using the defroster/heater
during the winter lowers the ICE energy efficiency.
Furthermore, It takes more energy for the ICE to keep the
emissions control equipment at the proper temperature
when the outside temperature is near freezing.
To help keep the ICE warm - I've started to block
both the top and bottom grills - during the 12 mile
commute. I am monitoring the coolant temperatures
via ScangaugeII via the FWT gauge. The ICE
water/coolant temperature is peakomg somewhere
between 160 F to 188 F degrees ( If the ScangaugeII
FWT climbs to 200 F degrees I plan start removing the
top grill blocking ) so far there has been no hint
that the ICE might overheat due to the grill blocking.
I've notice that grill blocking has reduce the number
of time the ICE needs to run inorder to keep the
ICE/emission temperature up...


2010 Prius III, Blue Ribbon/Dark Grey,OEM floormats
Yokohama Avid S33 (44psi front, 42psi rear) <== hypermiler mod #1,
Scangauge II ( RPM, MPG, FWT, AVG) <== hypermiler mod#2
lower grill blocked 100%, upper grill blocked 100% <== hypermiler
mod#3


DC/MD/VA metro area
worst MPG (550 miles) = 54. mpg
best MPG (300 miles,) =66 mpg
current MPG (fmd) = 57 mpg (dropping)
Overall estimated MPG = 59 mpg (dropping), +6500 miles

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Old 10 Dec 2010, 12:18 am   #9 (permalink)
Bruce Richmond
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  • Posts: n/a
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Default Re: 2010 Prius III fuel efficiency hypermiling results

On Dec 7, 10:13*pm, Neo <residualselfimage1...@gmail.com> wrote:
> The temperature in the Washington DC Area has dropped
> down to a high of 40 F degrees to a low of 28 F degrees.
> Fuel efficiency on my 2010 Toyota Prius III droped down
> to an average of 55 mpg for a oneway 12 mile commute
> - this is down from an average of 65 mpg for the same
> 12 mile commute during the summer time. *The problem
> is not with the tire's rolling resistance (tire pressures is
> 44 psi in front and 42 psi in the rear) but with the lower
> power performance from both the ICE and MG during
> the colder temperatures. Also using the defroster/heater
> during the winter lowers the ICE energy efficiency.
> Furthermore, It takes more energy for the ICE to keep the
> emissions control equipment at the proper temperature
> when the outside temperature is near freezing.
> To help keep the ICE warm - I've started to block
> both the top and bottom grills - during the 12 mile
> commute. I am monitoring the coolant temperatures
> via ScangaugeII via the FWT gauge. The ICE
> water/coolant temperature is peakomg somewhere
> between 160 F to 188 F degrees ( If the ScangaugeII
> FWT climbs to 200 F degrees I plan start removing *the
> top grill blocking ) so far there has been no hint
> that the ICE might overheat due to the grill blocking.
> I've notice that grill blocking has reduce the number
> of time the ICE needs to run inorder to keep the
> ICE/emission temperature up...
>
> 2010 Prius III, Blue Ribbon/Dark Grey,OEM floormats
> Yokohama Avid S33 (44psi front, 42psi rear) <== hypermiler mod #1,
> Scangauge II ( RPM, MPG, FWT, AVG) <== hypermiler mod#2
> lower grill blocked 100%, upper grill blocked 100% <== hypermiler
> mod#3
>
> DC/MD/VA metro area
> *worst MPG (550 miles) = 54. mpg
> *best MPG (300 miles,) =66 mpg
> *current MPG (fmd) = 57 mpg (dropping)
> Overall estimated MPG = 59 mpg (dropping), +6500 miles


Temps here in New Hampshire have been in the teens lately and are
dropping. With lower grill blocked I am still getting about 6 mpg
less than in the summer. Will be getting a scangage II soon so that I
can tape over the upper grill as well.

On the pulse and glide technique, I'd just like to add a bit to what
you wrote back in Sept. The idea is to put the engine under more load
part of the time to reduce the losses due to drawing a vacume against
the throttle plates, and then to shut the engine off. This is an old
trick used in economy runs with normal non-hybrid cars. The car, with
a manual transmission, would be accelerated at full throttle in high
gear to a fairly low speed to avoid wind drag. It engine would then
be shut off and the trans slipped into neutral to coast.

For the Prius you want to keep the speed down low enough so that when
you let off the gas the engine shuts off and stops turning. For my
2001 that speed is 41 mph. Above that speed the engine keeps turning
to keep from over speeding the motor/generator. When you let off the
gas and the engine shuts down the electric motor starts regenerative
braking. There are losses when charging and discharging a battery, so
to avoid those losses you gently press on the gas. You don't want to
step on it so hard as to use the electric motor to propel the car,
because that would drain the battery which would then need to be
recharged. The trick is to work the gas so that the car is just
coasting, as if it were in neutral. That is the glide, without
power. You are basicly doing the same thing as the old car above, but
are able to control everything with just your foot on the gas.

The roads around here are mostly 2 lane, and coasting down to 20 mph
in a 35 zone with traffic behind you isn't really an option. Under
such circumstances I have found that a modified pulse and glide still
gives better mileage than a steady light throttle. Let off the gas to
shut the engine down, then step on it lightly to use the electric
motor to maintain your speed. When the battery gets drained enough,
or the engine cools, it will start up again. It will have to work
harder to recharge the battery while propelling the car, but the fuel
saved while it was off more than makes up for that used to charge the
battery.
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Old 10 Dec 2010, 06:05 am   #10 (permalink)
Leftie
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Default Re: 2010 Prius III fuel efficiency hypermiling results

Bruce Richmond wrote:
> On Dec 7, 10:13 pm, Neo <residualselfimage1...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> The temperature in the Washington DC Area has dropped
>> down to a high of 40 F degrees to a low of 28 F degrees.
>> Fuel efficiency on my 2010 Toyota Prius III droped down
>> to an average of 55 mpg for a oneway 12 mile commute
>> - this is down from an average of 65 mpg for the same
>> 12 mile commute during the summer time. The problem
>> is not with the tire's rolling resistance (tire pressures is
>> 44 psi in front and 42 psi in the rear) but with the lower
>> power performance from both the ICE and MG during
>> the colder temperatures. Also using the defroster/heater
>> during the winter lowers the ICE energy efficiency.
>> Furthermore, It takes more energy for the ICE to keep the
>> emissions control equipment at the proper temperature
>> when the outside temperature is near freezing.
>> To help keep the ICE warm - I've started to block
>> both the top and bottom grills - during the 12 mile
>> commute. I am monitoring the coolant temperatures
>> via ScangaugeII via the FWT gauge. The ICE
>> water/coolant temperature is peakomg somewhere
>> between 160 F to 188 F degrees ( If the ScangaugeII
>> FWT climbs to 200 F degrees I plan start removing the
>> top grill blocking ) so far there has been no hint
>> that the ICE might overheat due to the grill blocking.
>> I've notice that grill blocking has reduce the number
>> of time the ICE needs to run inorder to keep the
>> ICE/emission temperature up...
>>
>> 2010 Prius III, Blue Ribbon/Dark Grey,OEM floormats
>> Yokohama Avid S33 (44psi front, 42psi rear) <== hypermiler mod #1,
>> Scangauge II ( RPM, MPG, FWT, AVG) <== hypermiler mod#2
>> lower grill blocked 100%, upper grill blocked 100% <== hypermiler
>> mod#3
>>
>> DC/MD/VA metro area
>> worst MPG (550 miles) = 54. mpg
>> best MPG (300 miles,) =66 mpg
>> current MPG (fmd) = 57 mpg (dropping)
>> Overall estimated MPG = 59 mpg (dropping), +6500 miles

>
> Temps here in New Hampshire have been in the teens lately and are
> dropping. With lower grill blocked I am still getting about 6 mpg
> less than in the summer. Will be getting a scangage II soon so that I
> can tape over the upper grill as well.
>
> On the pulse and glide technique, I'd just like to add a bit to what
> you wrote back in Sept. The idea is to put the engine under more load
> part of the time to reduce the losses due to drawing a vacume against
> the throttle plates, and then to shut the engine off. This is an old
> trick used in economy runs with normal non-hybrid cars. The car, with
> a manual transmission, would be accelerated at full throttle in high
> gear to a fairly low speed to avoid wind drag. It engine would then
> be shut off and the trans slipped into neutral to coast.
>
> For the Prius you want to keep the speed down low enough so that when
> you let off the gas the engine shuts off and stops turning. For my
> 2001 that speed is 41 mph. Above that speed the engine keeps turning
> to keep from over speeding the motor/generator. When you let off the
> gas and the engine shuts down the electric motor starts regenerative
> braking. There are losses when charging and discharging a battery, so
> to avoid those losses you gently press on the gas. You don't want to
> step on it so hard as to use the electric motor to propel the car,
> because that would drain the battery which would then need to be
> recharged. The trick is to work the gas so that the car is just
> coasting, as if it were in neutral. That is the glide, without
> power. You are basicly doing the same thing as the old car above, but
> are able to control everything with just your foot on the gas.
>
> The roads around here are mostly 2 lane, and coasting down to 20 mph
> in a 35 zone with traffic behind you isn't really an option. Under
> such circumstances I have found that a modified pulse and glide still
> gives better mileage than a steady light throttle. Let off the gas to
> shut the engine down, then step on it lightly to use the electric
> motor to maintain your speed. When the battery gets drained enough,
> or the engine cools, it will start up again. It will have to work
> harder to recharge the battery while propelling the car, but the fuel
> saved while it was off more than makes up for that used to charge the
> battery.



This is essentially the technique I use with my 2010. Since my
commute to work ends with a roughly 7/8 mile low-load (all either
downhill or level, low speed) run, and my commute home ends with a 2.5
mile or so low load run, I'm able to drive those last sections with the
ICE running but the electric motor doing all the driving. This raises my
average about 1.1 MPG going to work, and 2.5 coming home. Since the ICE
is going to have to run a lot to warm up the next time the car is
started, it may as well be charging the battery pack as well. The
battery pack is never below two bars when I shut the car off, and is
usually at 4 or 4.
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