Ignition timing

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Old 08 Dec 2013, 11:16 am   #1 (permalink)
Desertphile
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Default Ignition timing

Howdy all ! (If anyone still reads this newsgroup.)

I have a Toyota 1992 Pickup V6 with a 3VZ-E engine. I have replaced the
timing belt, various hoses and gaskets, water pump, etc., to fix a
mysterious coolant leak. The leak appears to be gone, finally.

The engine starts quickly, and idles well, with a nice sound, but if I try
to drive the vehicle there is very little power to the drive train. I
assume this is due to some kind of ignition timing problem, but I have no
idea if that is true. If it is true, then I have no idea how to fix the
problem.

The repair manual told me that the timing mark should be ten degrees
before top dead center (BTDC). I do not have a timing light. Even if I
did, I have no idea how to adjust the timing. The instructions say:

"Loosen the hold–down bolt, and adjust by turning the distributor. Tighten
the hold–down bolt, and recheck the ignition timing."

How do I find this "hold-down bolt?"


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Old 08 Dec 2013, 12:58 pm   #2 (permalink)
clare@snyder.on.ca
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Default Re: Ignition timing

On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 10:16:41 -0700, Desertphile
<desertphile@nospam.org> wrote:

>Howdy all ! (If anyone still reads this newsgroup.)
>
>I have a Toyota 1992 Pickup V6 with a 3VZ-E engine. I have replaced the
>timing belt, various hoses and gaskets, water pump, etc., to fix a
>mysterious coolant leak. The leak appears to be gone, finally.
>
>The engine starts quickly, and idles well, with a nice sound, but if I try
>to drive the vehicle there is very little power to the drive train. I
>assume this is due to some kind of ignition timing problem, but I have no
>idea if that is true. If it is true, then I have no idea how to fix the
>problem.
>
>The repair manual told me that the timing mark should be ten degrees
>before top dead center (BTDC). I do not have a timing light. Even if I
>did, I have no idea how to adjust the timing. The instructions say:
>
>"Loosen the hold–down bolt, and adjust by turning the distributor. Tighten
>the hold–down bolt, and recheck the ignition timing."
>
>How do I find this "hold-down bolt?"

Sounds more like your cam timing is off one tooth. Reconfirm cam
timing before touching ANYTHING ELSE.. That is all you touched - and
it ran well before the repair. Timing off one way gives real smooth
idle, good bottom end torque, and no top end at all. One tooth the
other way gives really crappy idle, no balls at all down low, and go
like a fiend at the top end.
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Old 08 Dec 2013, 10:29 pm   #3 (permalink)
Desertphile
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Default Re: Ignition timing

On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 13:58:35 -0500, clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:

> On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 10:16:41 -0700, Desertphile
> <desertphile@nospam.org> wrote:
>
> >Howdy all ! (If anyone still reads this newsgroup.)
> >
> >I have a Toyota 1992 Pickup V6 with a 3VZ-E engine. I have replaced the
> >timing belt, various hoses and gaskets, water pump, etc., to fix a
> >mysterious coolant leak. The leak appears to be gone, finally.
> >
> >The engine starts quickly, and idles well, with a nice sound, but if I try
> >to drive the vehicle there is very little power to the drive train. I
> >assume this is due to some kind of ignition timing problem, but I have no
> >idea if that is true. If it is true, then I have no idea how to fix the
> >problem.
> >
> >The repair manual told me that the timing mark should be ten degrees
> >before top dead center (BTDC). I do not have a timing light. Even if I
> >did, I have no idea how to adjust the timing. The instructions say:
> >
> >"Loosen the hold–down bolt, and adjust by turning the distributor. Tighten
> >the hold–down bolt, and recheck the ignition timing."
> >
> >How do I find this "hold-down bolt?"


> Sounds more like your cam timing is off one tooth. Reconfirm cam
> timing before touching ANYTHING ELSE.. That is all you touched - and
> it ran well before the repair. Timing off one way gives real smooth
> idle, good bottom end torque, and no top end at all. One tooth the
> other way gives really crappy idle, no balls at all down low, and go
> like a fiend at the top end.


Ah, thank you; I feared that is what I did. To install a new water pump I
had to remove the timing belt. I used a 17mm wrench to rotate the crank
shaft mark on "0" but I did not mark the belt at the two camshaft timing
pulleys. Darn it! I think you are right: one or both cam shafts are off a
tooth. Also, I had no idea tyhere is a timing belt tensioner: I just
grabbed that puppy and pulled it off.

Heavy sigh. I will remove the radiator again, and the fan, and the fan
bracket, and the timing belt cover.... and maybe I can find the old marks
on the belt. ARGH!

Thank you again.

And since the vehicle is 22 years old, maybe I'll get a timing light
anyhow....


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Old 09 Dec 2013, 06:30 pm   #4 (permalink)
JC
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Default Re: Ignition timing

On 12/8/2013 11:29 PM, Desertphile wrote:
> On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 13:58:35 -0500, clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>
>> On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 10:16:41 -0700, Desertphile
>> <desertphile@nospam.org> wrote:
>>
>>> Howdy all ! (If anyone still reads this newsgroup.)
>>>
>>> I have a Toyota 1992 Pickup V6 with a 3VZ-E engine. I have replaced the
>>> timing belt, various hoses and gaskets, water pump, etc., to fix a
>>> mysterious coolant leak. The leak appears to be gone, finally.
>>>
>>> The engine starts quickly, and idles well, with a nice sound, but if I try
>>> to drive the vehicle there is very little power to the drive train. I
>>> assume this is due to some kind of ignition timing problem, but I have no
>>> idea if that is true. If it is true, then I have no idea how to fix the
>>> problem.
>>>
>>> The repair manual told me that the timing mark should be ten degrees
>>> before top dead center (BTDC). I do not have a timing light. Even if I
>>> did, I have no idea how to adjust the timing. The instructions say:
>>>
>>> "Loosen the hold–down bolt, and adjust by turning the distributor. Tighten
>>> the hold–down bolt, and recheck the ignition timing."
>>>
>>> How do I find this "hold-down bolt?"

>
>> Sounds more like your cam timing is off one tooth. Reconfirm cam
>> timing before touching ANYTHING ELSE.. That is all you touched - and
>> it ran well before the repair. Timing off one way gives real smooth
>> idle, good bottom end torque, and no top end at all. One tooth the
>> other way gives really crappy idle, no balls at all down low, and go
>> like a fiend at the top end.

>
> Ah, thank you; I feared that is what I did. To install a new water pump I
> had to remove the timing belt. I used a 17mm wrench to rotate the crank
> shaft mark on "0" but I did not mark the belt at the two camshaft timing
> pulleys. Darn it! I think you are right: one or both cam shafts are off a
> tooth. Also, I had no idea tyhere is a timing belt tensioner: I just
> grabbed that puppy and pulled it off.
>
> Heavy sigh. I will remove the radiator again, and the fan, and the fan
> bracket, and the timing belt cover.... and maybe I can find the old marks
> on the belt. ARGH!
>
> Thank you again.
>
> And since the vehicle is 22 years old, maybe I'll get a timing light
> anyhow....
>
>

Guess you are aware of the burnt up valve problem on these? If not and
you have it all apart check the valve clearance/shims, it might save you
a head job. From (expensive) experience...JC
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